Going for my CBT next week - Commuting tips?

[Aaron702]

Hello all!

I'm going for my CBT next week and if I enjoy it I will be looking to pick up a used 125, mainly for work but also for fun. My budget is around £1500 and I've been looking at the CBF125 (although I've heard horror stories about narrow, cheap tyres in the wet, is there any truth to this?). What other bikes would you recommend? I'm enticed by the cheap offerings of Lexmoto but the linked brakes seem weird and is Chinese quality any good for daily commuting?

I'll need a full set of gear as I have nothing right now. It's approaching winter so will be dealing with the rain and cold, what would you recommend for dealing with that? I'm reluctant to spend hundreds on fancy gore-tex stuff as I don't want to lay out a ton of money and get fed up with it after 6 months.

Finally, does anybody have any commuting tips? I'll be cruising down the A13 where the limit isn't any higher than 50 for most of the way but it is a busy 3 lane road where filtering will be required to make any progress, how long did it take you to gain the confidence to filter? I'll also need to park my bike at the office (we have private parking behind a set of barriers but limited spots to chain to and it is in public view). What security do you suggest for London? Last but not least, I will need to get changed into shirt, trousers, shoes etc without looking like a bag of washing, does anyone have any luggage tips for this?

Thanks in advance for all your advice!

[Jazoli]

Cheap tyres is easy to remedy, just buy some decent ones, as for goretex kit you won't go wrong with the Oxford Mondial Laminate stuff, ebay has a 20% off code for ghostbikes so you could get jacket and trousers for £375 which is a billy bargain. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...

[Krikkit]

Aaron702 said:

Finally, does anybody have any commuting tips? I'll be cruising down the A13 where the limit isn't any higher than 50 for most of the way but it is a busy 3 lane road where filtering will be required to make any progress, how long did it take you to gain the confidence to filter?

Assume that no-one has seen you, and always have an escape plan if they do something stupid. You won't have the power to get yourself out of trouble on a 125 in slow-moving traffic, so that'll be a little limiting.

I'd just take your time - you'll know when you fancy it, have a little wobble through and see how it feels.

[Dakkon]

If you are commuting all year you need to think about staying warm and dry in winter and having some ventilation in summer.

Gortex Pro is the daddy but expensive. Buy the best gear you can afford and them upgrade to better gear over time. Your preferences and biking experience over time will change too and that will guide you in what you buy.

RandoM thoughts in no particular order:

-Muff's when referring to bikes are not sexy, but they work.
-Backpacks are ok, but a topbox is better (I use a Kriega backpack myself)
-Can you leave a change of shoes at work?
-When at work, do you have somewhere to put all your bike gear?
-Is you work carpark secure? (Lots of bikes crime in London especially)
-You can buy a front brake leaver lock these days, that is not too big and bulky but quite effective security
-In winter carry a cloth to wipe your helmet, especially when the salt is down
-Buy decent tyres always, Road 5's are a very good all season, all weather tyre
-Build up to filtering, it gets easier with experience
-People are half asleep on the way into and home from work, give people space, they will try to kill you
-But linked to the above, just chill when someone changes lanes without looking, just let it flow over you, riding angry, you will make mistakes, it makes no difference being 'right' on the road if the lorry has just squashed you.
-If you are riding in London is your bike ULEZ compliant?
-My last thought, enjoy going past all the cars stuck in traffic

[Aaron702]

Dakkon said:

If you are commuting all year you need to think about staying warm and dry in winter and having some ventilation in summer.

Gortex Pro is the daddy but expensive. Buy the best gear you can afford and them upgrade to better gear over time. Your preferences and biking experience over time will change too and that will guide you in what you buy.

RandoM thoughts in no particular order:

-Muff's when referring to bikes are not sexy, but they work.
-Backpacks are ok, but a topbox is better (I use a Kriega backpack myself)
-Can you leave a change of shoes at work?
-When at work, do you have somewhere to put all your bike gear?
-Is you work carpark secure? (Lots of bikes crime in London especially)
-You can buy a front brake leaver lock these days, that is not too big and bulky but quite effective security
-In winter carry a cloth to wipe your helmet, especially when the salt is down
-Buy decent tyres always, Road 5's are a very good all season, all weather tyre
-Build up to filtering, it gets easier with experience
-People are half asleep on the way into and home from work, give people space, they will try to kill you
-But linked to the above, just chill when someone changes lanes without looking, just let it flow over you, riding angry, you will make mistakes, it makes no difference being 'right' on the road if the lorry has just squashed you.
-If you are riding in London is your bike ULEZ compliant?
-My last thought, enjoy going past all the cars stuck in traffic

Great advice, thanks! My work car park isn't really any more secure than street parking, but you can't drive a vehicle in without going through a barrier, so I think it's pretty safe from being loaded into the back of a van.

For gear, I can keep my helmet with me under my desk and there is a regular coat rack where I could hang my gear, but not sure about that when it's wet.

[the cueball]

I commute into work at the moment – 50 miles each day.

Get the best wet weather gear you can, multi layered and gortex are things to look for. Consider heated gear as well.

If you don’t like idea of sexy muffs , then handlebar guards will keep most of the cold air and rain from your hands when moving.

I use a top box, and stick my bag with shoes and trousers in there (I ranger roll my trousers to keep them looking good) and I just wear my shirt under my jacket.

Visor cleaner is a must – also look for gloves that have a wiper blade on the left thumb

Buy good tyres and don’t panic… you can still have a lot of grip and lean in the rain.

Try to be as smooth as possible with all the controls, look and think further ahead - keep calm and breath...

Ride like everyone on the road is asleep/facebook zombie trying to kill you.

Cover both front and rear brakes when filtering, use a low gear too for a bit extra noise and more importantly engine braking.

I hate 125 bikes, never enjoyed being on them – too slow and dangerous IMO (don't shout at me), for my daily, I ride an old battered Fazer – it’s perfect for that sort of job.

I would serious consider going for your big bike licence if you can and look at an older Fazer/Hornet/Bandit. Keep the mechanicals good, but don’t worry about the bodywork so much.

ACF50 whatever the bike and worry about cleaning it in the spring.

I would also look at a helmet camera… not to become a you tube camera knob looking for trouble, but more for a “just in case” moment..

Edited by the cueball on Wednesday 16th October 11:44

[PurpleTurtle]

Welcome OP, 21yrs of all-weather urban commuting here, I've seen it all.

Core Body This time of year, cold and wet weather are your two biggest concerns. Without wishing to state the obvious, you need to focus on keeping yourself as warm and dry as possible. In regard to gear, it would be great if you could afford top spec Goretex kit, but I sense some budget limitations so we need to be realistic. Get the best waterproof textile kit you can afford to keep you warm and dry.

BUT .... in those two decades of using all sorts of expensive kit, there is no escaping that whatever you wear, if it gets wet and cold in the morning, it is almost impossible to get it dry in time to ride home in. Puttting cold, damp kit on at the end of the day is rather soul destroying. To that end, you need to thing about not getting it wet at all. I wear one of these Revit Cyclone Over Jackets over my textile jacket, I've been running it the last four years and it has not let a drop of rain through, and has the added effect of being a great windcheater. Pair that with a pair of cheap waterproof trousers from Decathlon or somewhere, worn over textile biking trousers or leathers, and you have kept yourself and your kit dry, so stay warm.

I have tried several one-piece rain oversuits over the years and without question they are a ball-ache to get on and off, so I do not recommend.

Hands Cheap gloves are a false economy. Get the best you can afford (look for Ride magazine Recommended reviews). Most people would recommend heated grips - 50 quid well spent, however, I don't know anyone who has run them on a 125cc bike. That said, I see that Oxford do a Scooter Hotgrip with a lower current draw, designed for scooters and lower capacity bikes - might be worth reading some reviews on these.

I have gone for Gerbing Heated Gloves last winter, they are brilliant but 130 quid, powered off the bike. Again, not sure how they would fair on a low capacity machine.

Handlebar muffs seem to polarize people - I love how they keep the wind off, but I've never found a pair that I'm entirely happy with on my style of bike, even the very popular Tucano Urbano. I dare say they are great on bikes with upright bars, my bikes are sports or sports tourer so they don't quite work.

Feet Again, best waterproof boots you can afford and good warm socks.

Visibility I long ago gave up trying to look cool on the bike and now wear a reflective waistcoat over my top layers, and a bright yellow BMW System 7 helmet. I've got a wife and kid, am a self-employed sole breadwinner, so can't afford some tt knocking me off in a SMIDSY. I dress up dayglo on the basis of giving myself the best chance of being seen. So far so good.

Other Driver fkwittery Every year the clocks go back I notice that the standard of driving in terms of looking out for bikers drops. As you learn to filter (daunting at first, but you soon get used to it) you will spot hundreds of people on your commute dicking about on their phone, not paying full attention to what they are doing. Assume the worst that everyone is doing that, that they haven't seen you, and that they will try to knock you off. Ride defensively around that and you should have half a chance. The most common accident is being T-Boned at a junction where vehicles haven't seen you - make sure you are as visible as possible, and where possible make eye contact so that you are sure they have seen you.

Good luck. I live in an area with abysmal traffic so am forced to commute by bike out of necessity. Some days I wonder WTF I am doing, but beating the traffic is hugely satisfying.

[Aaron702]

PurpleTurtle said:

BUT .... in those two decades of using all sorts of expensive kit, there is no escaping that whatever you wear, if it gets wet and cold in the morning, it is almost impossible to get it dry in time to ride home in. Puttting cold, damp kit on at the end of the day is rather soul destroying. To that end, you need to thing about not getting it wet at all. I wear one of these Revit Cyclone Over Jackets over my textile jacket, I've been running it the last four years and it has not let a drop of rain through, and has the added effect of being a great windcheater. Pair that with a pair of cheap waterproof trousers from Decathlon or somewhere, worn over textile biking trousers or leathers, and you have kept yourself and your kit dry, so stay warm.

Thanks for the detailed response. Just a question on the over jacket, can I just buy a cheap-ish one of these and put it over the top of a proper leather jacket? What do you do with the over jacket once it is wet? I suppose it doesn't matter if it's not touching your skin.

[Krikkit]

Aaron702 said:

Thanks for the detailed response. Just a question on the over jacket, can I just buy a cheap-ish one of these and put it over the top of a proper leather jacket? What do you do with the over jacket once it is wet? I suppose it doesn't matter if it's not touching your skin.

They're usually a thin layer of material and dry in minutes once inside. But yes, proper jacket (not leather, textile is generally cheaper and better weather protection) goes underneath.

[joema]

Agree. Have a one piece waterproof over suit that cost about £30 for rainy days in the winter.

How far is your commute? Mine is 10miles. With bike jacket and its thermal liner and casual lightweight coat or fleece under I am warm enough for all but the coldest mornings for the trip. Any longer and I feel the cold a bit. Once you get cold you can't get warm again so layer up as appropriate.

Also depending on your commute, have you thought about getting a full bike licence? I started out with the idea I would just ride on L plates but soon realised a proper bike would be more useful. Could have saved time and money by doing the DAS sooner.

With filtering - take your time getting used to it. If you're not sure about a gap or think twice don't do it.
Look for front wheels changing direction and keep your speed at a pace that isn't too much higher than the traffic so you can react. No need to be billy big bks and if someone is following you and you feel intimated or making you go faster than you'd like let them through.

It's better to take a couple of extra mins on the journey than to take higher risks.

I only tend to filter in traffic moving under 30mph. above that there's no real reward and I'm happy enough moving.

And when overtaking spot the gaps that you can pull into. If you are overtaking slow or stationary traffic and something is coming the other way you have less time than you think so prepare to pull in. Also never overtake or filter past side road junctions

Get used to your route and spot problem areas.

All this will come with time so just get out there and ride. keep remembering what your instructors teach you. have fun.

[Bumblebee7]

Some good advice here already. I've been commuting for two years in all weathers and have the Oxford Mondial jacket which I think is great, some of the velcro tabs have lost some stitching but otherwise it's great. 3 year warranty as well, which is a lot longer than most competitors (although not as long as Rukka which is a lot more expensive).

Buy some back protection and do not scrimp on safety gear. You are more likely to have an accident when you're inexperienced so buy intelligently but don't buy cheap.

The tyres on most 125's are terrible, you can replace them of course but there's so much else that's wrong with the smaller cheaper bikes. You'll soon find yourself doing DAS and looking for 600cc+ bikes. I bought a CB125F brand new for £2,500, less than 12 months later I sold it and bought a 3yo Honda NC750X for £2,750. You get so much more bang for your buck once you go beyond a 125cc. Better tyres, suspension, instruments, brakes not to mention acceleration etc.

You'll soon get the hang of filtering, but don't get too cocky. Don't go more than 10-20mph more than the traffic you are passing, plenty of riders go much faster and it does not give you enough time to react.

For a lock, I would get two. One for home and one for the office, plus a disc lock for when you're out and about. I've got a 19mm Almax lock at home and a 13mm noose chain pragmasis at work. They're expensive, but they'll be adequate when you get a better/more expensive bike and you'll never need to replace them. It's important to try and lock the bike to something so it can't be lifted. I recently rode off with my disc lock on and bent it completely so I had to cut it off, took all of 5 secs with a battery powered angle grinder. You just want to make your bike less appealing and harder to steal than everyone else's, but ultimately all locks can be defeated with enough time. 

[deebs]

Bumblebee7 said:

Buy some back protection and do not scrimp on safety gear. You are more likely to have an accident when you're inexperienced so buy intelligently but don't buy cheap.
. 

On the subject of back protectors , any recommendations? I too am just getting into biking and having to buy everything all at once, so whilst not wanting to buy the cheapest everything i am trying to find the 'value' point. Eg there are bike helmets for 70-100 that are 5 star safety rated by https://sharp.dft.gov.uk/ . That's great as Ive found the value price point.

Any recommendations for protectors?

[Bumblebee7]

deebs said:

On the subject of back protectors , any recommendations? I too am just getting into biking and having to buy everything all at once, so whilst not wanting to buy the cheapest everything i am trying to find the 'value' point. Eg there are bike helmets for 70-100 that are 5 star safety rated by https://sharp.dft.gov.uk/ . That's great as Ive found the value price point.

Any recommendations for protectors?

I went for an alpinestars one as that's the jacket I had at the time, still fits in my oxford jacket. Never really did any research so can't comment on whether one brand is better than another. I've got D3O in my jeans and that's pretty cool stuff.

On the subject of the helmet- sharp is a good starting point but don't take it as gospel. Just like Euro NCAP, helmets can be strengthened in the tested areas to make them appear better than they are. Polycarbonate (cheaper) helmets also fair quite well in Sharp tests and low speed collisions, but are worse in higher speed crashes. I bought a Shoei GT Air which is super comfy, made by a reputable company but only scores 3 stars. It was £400 and I chose it over many cheaper lids with the same theoretical features with higher sharp ratings, and I don't for a second regret going for the Shoei.

[alabbasi]

'loud pipes save lives' - I don't ride a bike but I think that there's some truth to that saying.

I do drive a pickup every so often where I'm able to look down into cars. At least here in Texas, 1 in 10 drivers have their phone in their lap and are not paying attention to the road. It wasn't much different when i was on the N circular in London a month ago.

[EagleMoto4-2]

What kind of barrier is it at work? I only ask because we have a barrier but there is a gap between the entrance and exit barrier control boxes, such that some scrotes on a scooter hopped over the kerb, between the barriers, hotwired a colleagues Kawasaki Er6 and made off with it, in broad daylight with visible security cameras. I dont work in London either. You need to find something solid you can chain it to and would recommend a disclock as well.

[PurpleTurtle]

Aaron702 said:

PurpleTurtle said:

BUT .... in those two decades of using all sorts of expensive kit, there is no escaping that whatever you wear, if it gets wet and cold in the morning, it is almost impossible to get it dry in time to ride home in. Puttting cold, damp kit on at the end of the day is rather soul destroying. To that end, you need to thing about not getting it wet at all. I wear one of these Revit Cyclone Over Jackets over my textile jacket, I've been running it the last four years and it has not let a drop of rain through, and has the added effect of being a great windcheater. Pair that with a pair of cheap waterproof trousers from Decathlon or somewhere, worn over textile biking trousers or leathers, and you have kept yourself and your kit dry, so stay warm.

Thanks for the detailed response. Just a question on the over jacket, can I just buy a cheap-ish one of these and put it over the top of a proper leather jacket? What do you do with the over jacket once it is wet? I suppose it doesn't matter if it's not touching your skin.

The over jacket will dry in minutes, because they don't hold water. It's all about keeping your warm layer as dry as possible.

[anonymous-user]

Really good advice above.

I'm doing 50 miles a day on the bike up to the peak district, on a YBR125. I've rode through 4 of the past 5 winters, it's cold, but the early morning rides as the sun is rising are a beautiful experience.

I don't think it has been mentioned, but you can buy aftermarket slip-on heated hand grips that connect to your battery; there are also manufacturer options available, Honda may have them for the CBF.

As above, on-piece rainsuits are a pain, you'll find they leak at the seams, on the groin - not fun (50mph at 0c with 10mph headwind is -22c wind chill). Go for a two piece rainsuit, easier to put on and get off, and if the pants or jacket leak, you only need to replace the failed one.

A good pair of long-johns under your riding gear will help, and tuck into your socks. Hiking stores have good thermal base layers for a budget, also a buff or a balaclava. if your nose gets cold, its running down your chin. If you can afford, there are battery thermals that plug into the wall to charge, saves draining a 125cc's battery. Can be expensive, but a worthwhile investment.

You can get a pack of Hi-Viz vests cheaply from many hardware stores for going over your jacket.

Givi make good seat bags, they have straps and tie onto the back seat and most if not all come with a waterproof cover and shoulder strap so you can carry it away from the bike. Some top boxes will make a 125 unstable. I have a Givi set of panniers and top box on my 125 but prefer the seat bag as the boxes add a lot of wind resistance.

Avoid riding over wet manhole covers or road markings. They are incredibly slippery when wet.