Rear light clusters (again)
Discussion
Has anyone had any luck addressing this woefully inadequate product directly with AM?
I had both clusters replaced under warranty about 2.5 years ago, both are now full of condensation and one of the indicator arrays has now failed.
My local dealer will happily supply for £850 each (or £1k to supply and fit), but I can't stomach this every couple of years.
Currently assessing the self fix (for the one that's not blown)/replacement/Fisher upgrade options.
Cheers
Ed
I had both clusters replaced under warranty about 2.5 years ago, both are now full of condensation and one of the indicator arrays has now failed.
My local dealer will happily supply for £850 each (or £1k to supply and fit), but I can't stomach this every couple of years.
Currently assessing the self fix (for the one that's not blown)/replacement/Fisher upgrade options.
Cheers
Ed
There is a good tutorial on how to reseal them here, in the FAQs section.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I wanted to try the procedure sooner or later, even if mine is not as bad as yours, just some light condensation in the left one showing up occasionally.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I wanted to try the procedure sooner or later, even if mine is not as bad as yours, just some light condensation in the left one showing up occasionally.
EVR said:
There is a good tutorial on how to reseal them here, in the FAQs section.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I wanted to try the procedure sooner or later, even if mine is not as bad as yours, just some light condensation in the left one showing up occasionally.
Thanks, I've got this one bookmarked - I'll probably have to buy a replacement offside, so will try on the one I take out before giving it a go on the nearside.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I wanted to try the procedure sooner or later, even if mine is not as bad as yours, just some light condensation in the left one showing up occasionally.
My dealer said there is nothing that can be done to stop the leaks if they are going to leak they will leak. They don't all develop leaks, but many do. He told me if they are going to leak, it will be on day one. I believe it has to do with the installation. They have a ridiculous amount of adjustment, compared to any car I have ever seen. Anyone who has had them out will discover this and realize what a pain in the ass they are to adjust. And if they are stressed and over tightened which is easy to do with this poor design, the welds/seam no doubt crack and allow water in. Had they been designed like most tail light from day one, these leaks would not happen.
Car was swapped with the lights in good shape... for a DBS with leaky lights 
That DBS was sold while over seas so had to replace them with new ones.
My current DBS also has condensing lights so that's on the list to fix them, it does live in a garage now though so probably not as prone.
That DBS was sold while over seas so had to replace them with new ones.
My current DBS also has condensing lights so that's on the list to fix them, it does live in a garage now though so probably not as prone.
dbs2000 said:
^agree, I've had 4 of the b
d things which led me to writing the damn tutorial
Which is very much appreciated!d things which led me to writing the damn tutorial I managed to source a pair of new (clear) ones for under £1k and will try to dry out & 'repair' the red ones.
Do you think there's anything that can be done to the new ones before fitting to mitigate against future problems?
I'm lucky as I've got a pair that doesn't have any condensation.
But if i was to change mine, like i did on my first DB9 is to get some really good clear silicon sealant and put a nice bead between the lens and the rear case. It wont be seen when installed.
I completely agree that when the light unit is fitted it is slightly flexed and twisted so it fits perfectly. This in my opinion lets some moisture in especially in the outer edges.
The bead of good silicon sealant should help to prevent moisure getting in after fitting. And just be very gental with the thing when installing it, easier said than done though.
Complete design fault and Aston just decided to put the responsibility on us owners once the warranty is over.
I had so many problems with condensation with my first DB9 both front and rear I now dont drive my current one in the wet and be really careful washing it. Its also in a heated garage.
But if i was to change mine, like i did on my first DB9 is to get some really good clear silicon sealant and put a nice bead between the lens and the rear case. It wont be seen when installed.
I completely agree that when the light unit is fitted it is slightly flexed and twisted so it fits perfectly. This in my opinion lets some moisture in especially in the outer edges.
The bead of good silicon sealant should help to prevent moisure getting in after fitting. And just be very gental with the thing when installing it, easier said than done though.
Complete design fault and Aston just decided to put the responsibility on us owners once the warranty is over.
I had so many problems with condensation with my first DB9 both front and rear I now dont drive my current one in the wet and be really careful washing it. Its also in a heated garage.
Edited by paulrog1 on Friday 25th October 18:30
This is what I've used before works a treat. But if there is already condensation inside the unit it will trap it in.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-595X40ML-LOC-Seal...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-595X40ML-LOC-Seal...
paulrog1 said:
This is what I've used before works a treat. But if there is already condensation inside the unit it will trap i in.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-595X40ML-LOC-Seal...
Nice one, order placed!https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-595X40ML-LOC-Seal...
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