Plasti dip yay or nay?
Discussion
Hi guys can not find a black surround for my emblem for love nor money, cars was tinted all round yesterday along with headlight tints now the surround on my grill just stands out like a sore thumb and is bugging the life out of me. The actual emblem is black and the badges grills and splitter trim all already set chromed, only thing is the emblem surround now. Car is a mk7 golf R, vw owners will know the pain in the backside the ugly round badge is.
Right so I’m thinking of taking the grill completely out and spraying the whole thing with plasti dip, would this work? Obviously the surround is round, would peeling it back once dry be a problem? Are plasti dip even long lasting, would washing the car rubbing on it etc start crumbling it away? As I say it’s only the front that requires doing, back is sorted. I’m going for the full blacked out look so the grill and chrome mirror caps just stand up like a sore thumb....
Many thanks
Right so I’m thinking of taking the grill completely out and spraying the whole thing with plasti dip, would this work? Obviously the surround is round, would peeling it back once dry be a problem? Are plasti dip even long lasting, would washing the car rubbing on it etc start crumbling it away? As I say it’s only the front that requires doing, back is sorted. I’m going for the full blacked out look so the grill and chrome mirror caps just stand up like a sore thumb....
Many thanks
Yes, it's good stuff, and totally reversible, so why not?
Warm the can in warm water for half an hour first, and get a spray trigger. If you're getting a nice mist, you'll get a nice result. If it's dribbling and spitting, stop and adjust your process. Warm can and spray trigger and lots of shaking usually sorts it out.
Light coats is the key to a good finish.
I wouldn't do a whole car in it, but for trim and badges and things, it's great stuff.
Warm the can in warm water for half an hour first, and get a spray trigger. If you're getting a nice mist, you'll get a nice result. If it's dribbling and spitting, stop and adjust your process. Warm can and spray trigger and lots of shaking usually sorts it out.
Light coats is the key to a good finish.
I wouldn't do a whole car in it, but for trim and badges and things, it's great stuff.
That’s what I like about it, the fact that it’s reversible, and has a matte/rubbery thick finish. Wasn’t intending to do whole car nor would I even touch my alloys with it lol seen people do there exhaust tip? Really? Surely that’s a recipe for disaster lol where can I source this stuff from amazon? How many cans you think 2?
chan61922 said:
Sorry should have elaborated on that pic post, don’t think debris, chips etc should be a huge problem as the surround sits under the bonnet, and it’s not fully facing the road head on it that makes sense?
If you do use plastidip make sure you put enough coats on so its thick enough to peel off properly. I've seen some parts with a thin coating and when you try to remove it it doesn't peel very well.chan61922 said:
what’s the spray nozzle you was referring to? Would the nozzle/nib on a the can not be up to the task? How many coats do you typically apply?
Something like this:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-Dip-Universal-Aero...
The spray nozzle on the can is fine, but the trigger just makes it so much neater and easier.
I did a couple of very light mist coats, and then a good wet coat. You could probably get away with two coats, one light, one wet. There are loads of youtube vids on technique so I just watched a few before having a go. The best tip was definitely warming the can in warm water first.
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at the same time I don’t want to pay someone £100 just to paint a badge, nor do I have time to be messing about prepping painting a badge myself lol