E39 Auto Gearbox Oil Change / Flush
Discussion
Hi all,
I've had my second E39 a year or so and this one is a 525i Sport Auto as opposed to my previous which 540i Sport. The 540i was on 130k miles and had a recon gearbox and it drove ok but my original gearbox on the 525i has generally been better. It's on 90k and to my knowledge nothing has been done to the transmission.
The car generally shifts well but tends to get worse once it warms up. I recently bought my uncle an E46 325i Auto which is on 50k miles and seems to shift faultlessly all the time. Is this the same gearbox?
My question - is it worth getting the fluid changed to try and improve the shifts and do I need to find someone that can do a 'total exchange' or flush rather than a simple fluid change?
There is a place in Dartford that can do a total exchange for £299+vat which seems steep and is also 90 mins each way for me from Surrey/Hampshire. Is there somewhere closer to me?
Thanks
Thanks!
I've had my second E39 a year or so and this one is a 525i Sport Auto as opposed to my previous which 540i Sport. The 540i was on 130k miles and had a recon gearbox and it drove ok but my original gearbox on the 525i has generally been better. It's on 90k and to my knowledge nothing has been done to the transmission.
The car generally shifts well but tends to get worse once it warms up. I recently bought my uncle an E46 325i Auto which is on 50k miles and seems to shift faultlessly all the time. Is this the same gearbox?
My question - is it worth getting the fluid changed to try and improve the shifts and do I need to find someone that can do a 'total exchange' or flush rather than a simple fluid change?
There is a place in Dartford that can do a total exchange for £299+vat which seems steep and is also 90 mins each way for me from Surrey/Hampshire. Is there somewhere closer to me?
Thanks
Thanks!
helix402 said:
I wouldn’t bother changing the oil. I’ve had lots of auto BMWs. Changed the oil in all of them. Only one gearbox failed-at 220k.
I service a 730i with 200k on the original box and oil-no problems with it.
This +1I service a 730i with 200k on the original box and oil-no problems with it.
By the time a gearbox has done 90k, it's about halfway through its life. I do the odd job on an S plate 528i with 230'000 miles and it's never had an oil change. Gearboxes fail because something breaks such as the thrust washers or a split brake drum.
By all means drop the sump, replace the filter and top up with correct oil but it's not at all uncommon for an old ZF to whine after an oil change. To each their own.
Dont think its the same box, but im on a couple of E60/61 facebook pages.
And it seems to be a little bit of pot luck, theres been people had it done after its been playing up expecting the worst and its cured it.
But on the same token theres probably the same where they ve had it done and made it worst etc.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
This bloke runs BMR performance in Surrey.
Bit i assume the Dartford one is Martin Hind who gets a lot of mentions when people are asking about getting the box serviced.
A side note i had my E60 done at Automatic transmissions in Preston as they were recommended on forum5.
And it seems to be a little bit of pot luck, theres been people had it done after its been playing up expecting the worst and its cured it.
But on the same token theres probably the same where they ve had it done and made it worst etc.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
This bloke runs BMR performance in Surrey.
Bit i assume the Dartford one is Martin Hind who gets a lot of mentions when people are asking about getting the box serviced.
A side note i had my E60 done at Automatic transmissions in Preston as they were recommended on forum5.
Max M4X WW said:
Hi all,
I've had my second E39 a year or so and this one is a 525i Sport Auto as opposed to my previous which 540i Sport. The 540i was on 130k miles and had a recon gearbox and it drove ok but my original gearbox on the 525i has generally been better. It's on 90k and to my knowledge nothing has been done to the transmission.
The car generally shifts well but tends to get worse once it warms up. I recently bought my uncle an E46 325i Auto which is on 50k miles and seems to shift faultlessly all the time. Is this the same gearbox?
My question - is it worth getting the fluid changed to try and improve the shifts and do I need to find someone that can do a 'total exchange' or flush rather than a simple fluid change?
There is a place in Dartford that can do a total exchange for £299+vat which seems steep and is also 90 mins each way for me from Surrey/Hampshire. Is there somewhere closer to me?
Thanks
Thanks!
Off-topic but what made you switch from the 540i? I'm considering buying one. I've had my second E39 a year or so and this one is a 525i Sport Auto as opposed to my previous which 540i Sport. The 540i was on 130k miles and had a recon gearbox and it drove ok but my original gearbox on the 525i has generally been better. It's on 90k and to my knowledge nothing has been done to the transmission.
The car generally shifts well but tends to get worse once it warms up. I recently bought my uncle an E46 325i Auto which is on 50k miles and seems to shift faultlessly all the time. Is this the same gearbox?
My question - is it worth getting the fluid changed to try and improve the shifts and do I need to find someone that can do a 'total exchange' or flush rather than a simple fluid change?
There is a place in Dartford that can do a total exchange for £299+vat which seems steep and is also 90 mins each way for me from Surrey/Hampshire. Is there somewhere closer to me?
Thanks
Thanks!
I have done loads of ZF6 'boxes.
Drain the sump, check no metal etc.
I then undo the transmission cooler line, pump out the old stuff and pump the same back in with a garden pump (5l thing).
Usually takes around 12-15 litres for it to come out clear.
I don't even bother changing the sump/filter anymore, I have taken the filter apart at 15 years old and 160k miles and they are still good.
I buy the fluid from eBay, 2 x 10 litre tubs for £75 delivered.
I do then reset the adaptations, but that is something you might not want to so.
I have always had new solenoids sat there in case, but never needed to do them and always feels like a new 'box again afterwards.
I think complete flush of oil is far better than 4-6 litres with new sump and filter.
Obviously the E39 uses a different gearbox I presume, but same principle.
Drain the sump, check no metal etc.
I then undo the transmission cooler line, pump out the old stuff and pump the same back in with a garden pump (5l thing).
Usually takes around 12-15 litres for it to come out clear.
I don't even bother changing the sump/filter anymore, I have taken the filter apart at 15 years old and 160k miles and they are still good.
I buy the fluid from eBay, 2 x 10 litre tubs for £75 delivered.
I do then reset the adaptations, but that is something you might not want to so.
I have always had new solenoids sat there in case, but never needed to do them and always feels like a new 'box again afterwards.
I think complete flush of oil is far better than 4-6 litres with new sump and filter.
Obviously the E39 uses a different gearbox I presume, but same principle.
gizlaroc said:
I have done loads of ZF6 'boxes.
Drain the sump, check no metal etc.
I then undo the transmission cooler line, pump out the old stuff and pump the same back in with a garden pump (5l thing).
Usually takes around 12-15 litres for it to come out clear.
The oil comes out of the other end of the cooler line or via sump?Drain the sump, check no metal etc.
I then undo the transmission cooler line, pump out the old stuff and pump the same back in with a garden pump (5l thing).
Usually takes around 12-15 litres for it to come out clear.
Where the oil goes into the cooler you simply attach a hose into a container, preferably marked for litres, and on the connector, that now has no hose attached, you attach your pump with the new oil in it.
When you start the car the old oil is pushed out, you pump in new clean oil.
After 12 or so litres you will be seeing clean oil coming through.
I did a Disco 3 a couple of months back, which was throwing error codes from 3-4th and limp mode every time and and was told a new gearbox or rebuild was needed, with nothing but a flush. Error codes no more, gear changes felt much better.
I then reset the gearbox adaptations (only do this if you have 100% flushed) and it genuinely felt like a new gearbox.
This was a car that was 15 years old, 160k miles on original oil, and in a Disco, which is much harder on the gearbox than a 5 series or similar.
Worse case is if you still have issues, drop the new oil out, then change solenoids or whatever is needed, and then put it back in.
For the sake of £70 you might save yourself a hell of a lot of time and trouble.
What I would NEVER do, is flush the sump out, so you are only swapping 50% or so of the fluid, and then reset the adaptations, which is what many garages do. That imho is asking for trouble,
Those 'boxes are very clever how they adapt over time, resetting the ecu so it thinks it is a new 'box with new oil if it is not, is not wise.
When you start the car the old oil is pushed out, you pump in new clean oil.
After 12 or so litres you will be seeing clean oil coming through.
I did a Disco 3 a couple of months back, which was throwing error codes from 3-4th and limp mode every time and and was told a new gearbox or rebuild was needed, with nothing but a flush. Error codes no more, gear changes felt much better.
I then reset the gearbox adaptations (only do this if you have 100% flushed) and it genuinely felt like a new gearbox.
This was a car that was 15 years old, 160k miles on original oil, and in a Disco, which is much harder on the gearbox than a 5 series or similar.
Worse case is if you still have issues, drop the new oil out, then change solenoids or whatever is needed, and then put it back in.
For the sake of £70 you might save yourself a hell of a lot of time and trouble.
What I would NEVER do, is flush the sump out, so you are only swapping 50% or so of the fluid, and then reset the adaptations, which is what many garages do. That imho is asking for trouble,
Those 'boxes are very clever how they adapt over time, resetting the ecu so it thinks it is a new 'box with new oil if it is not, is not wise.
benbuhagiar said:
Max M4X WW said:
Hi all,
I've had my second E39 a year or so and this one is a 525i Sport Auto as opposed to my previous which 540i Sport. The 540i was on 130k miles and had a recon gearbox and it drove ok but my original gearbox on the 525i has generally been better. It's on 90k and to my knowledge nothing has been done to the transmission.
The car generally shifts well but tends to get worse once it warms up. I recently bought my uncle an E46 325i Auto which is on 50k miles and seems to shift faultlessly all the time. Is this the same gearbox?
My question - is it worth getting the fluid changed to try and improve the shifts and do I need to find someone that can do a 'total exchange' or flush rather than a simple fluid change?
There is a place in Dartford that can do a total exchange for £299+vat which seems steep and is also 90 mins each way for me from Surrey/Hampshire. Is there somewhere closer to me?
Thanks
Thanks!
Off-topic but what made you switch from the 540i? I'm considering buying one. I've had my second E39 a year or so and this one is a 525i Sport Auto as opposed to my previous which 540i Sport. The 540i was on 130k miles and had a recon gearbox and it drove ok but my original gearbox on the 525i has generally been better. It's on 90k and to my knowledge nothing has been done to the transmission.
The car generally shifts well but tends to get worse once it warms up. I recently bought my uncle an E46 325i Auto which is on 50k miles and seems to shift faultlessly all the time. Is this the same gearbox?
My question - is it worth getting the fluid changed to try and improve the shifts and do I need to find someone that can do a 'total exchange' or flush rather than a simple fluid change?
There is a place in Dartford that can do a total exchange for £299+vat which seems steep and is also 90 mins each way for me from Surrey/Hampshire. Is there somewhere closer to me?
Thanks
Thanks!
gizlaroc said:
Where the oil goes into the cooler you simply attach a hose into a container, preferably marked for litres, and on the connector, that now has no hose attached, you attach your pump with the new oil in it.
When you start the car the old oil is pushed out, you pump in new clean oil.
After 12 or so litres you will be seeing clean oil coming through.
Many thanks - I would have a few more questions if you don't mind...When you start the car the old oil is pushed out, you pump in new clean oil.
After 12 or so litres you will be seeing clean oil coming through.
The engines is idling with selector in P - or in gear with rear axle raised?
Is it the gearbox which, using its own pump is both pushing the old oil out and sucking the new oil from (another) container - or you must at the same time as the old oil is being pushed out (by the gearbox's own pump), manually pump in new oil? No problem with oil starvation in case you cannot pump in the oil fast enough?
Also what sort of pump/hoses/attachments you use to have a proper seal with cooler lines so as not to have ATF all over?
Thanks again.
Just leave it in park.
With the engine running it will pump the oil.
Have someone with you turn the engine on off.
You could run it empty and not damage it, not suggesting do this, but you could.
Drop the oil from sump, around 3-4 litres.
Undo hose going into oil cooler, attach an extension hose to this to go into container.
Put a hose onto the cooler, use a garden pressure sprayer to pump in what you have removed.
Turn on engine and pump out 4 or 5 litres. Pump back in. Try and think about how much has come out and how much is going back in.
Then use the drain plug to get the level right once you have clear fluid going into your container.
With the engine running it will pump the oil.
Have someone with you turn the engine on off.
You could run it empty and not damage it, not suggesting do this, but you could.
Drop the oil from sump, around 3-4 litres.
Undo hose going into oil cooler, attach an extension hose to this to go into container.
Put a hose onto the cooler, use a garden pressure sprayer to pump in what you have removed.
Turn on engine and pump out 4 or 5 litres. Pump back in. Try and think about how much has come out and how much is going back in.
Then use the drain plug to get the level right once you have clear fluid going into your container.
Edited by gizlaroc on Saturday 30th November 11:26
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