Rust treatments
Discussion
Depends how far you want to go with it. To do a proper, proper job you’d be stripping everything off the underside, taking it back to bare metal, removing all traces of rust, treating any “pitted” areas with Hydrate 80, coating everything with a hot zinc coating, priming it, covering it all in Raptor (toughest rubberised coating on the market, closest to indestructible that exists), then filling all the cavities with Dynax S50 (lab proven best anti-rust cavity wax on the market and giving everything a top covering of clear Dynax UC.
This place is local to me and seems to have lots of genuine testimonials.
https://before-n-after.co.uk/
https://before-n-after.co.uk/
Don't know about 'modern' Fiats, but my old Alfa has an automatic rust protection device; officially referred to as an 'oil leak'!
No it doesn't really leak oil - it just like to 'mark it's territory'!
Seriously, as others have implied the cost of rust protection is like a piece of string.
If you have a jet wash and ramps you could start by cleaning (really cleaning) the underside just to see what you are starting with. It's like painting a car - most of the time is spent on the preparation.
No it doesn't really leak oil - it just like to 'mark it's territory'!
Seriously, as others have implied the cost of rust protection is like a piece of string.
If you have a jet wash and ramps you could start by cleaning (really cleaning) the underside just to see what you are starting with. It's like painting a car - most of the time is spent on the preparation.
Edited by alfaspecial on Saturday 16th November 10:29
magooagain said:
Rust prone areas on the Fiat Coupe are well documented on the coupe forum. Only a rust prevention specialist knowledgeable on the Fiat coupe is going to be able to do the correct work needed.
The other way is to do the job yourself.
Had a chat with Joe at the NEC last week and he gave some good advise. The other way is to do the job yourself.
I've used this place, they did a good job.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/rust-proofing-s...
Based in Spalding.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/rust-proofing-s...
Based in Spalding.
rovermorris999 said:
I've used this place, they did a good job.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/rust-proofing-s...
Based in Spalding.
They did my Integrale. I seem to remember they have plans for individual models so the correct treatment is targeted. I dropped the car off for a week and they seemed to a good job and were very helpful..https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/rust-proofing-s...
Based in Spalding.
I have just done my 1988 MR2 myself, and while it is a bit of work, it is very rewarding.
I decided to go with a Dinitrol kit like this: https://rejel.com/din02/
Step one was to get the car as high off the ground as possible, wheels removed, wheel arch liners, side skirts etc. Then it's using a hard wire brush/drill attachment to grind back any rusty areas. I was lucky not to find anything that needed welding, but that is always the fear!
Then, spray the rust converter on, wait 24 hours, before coating with 4941 which leaves a really good finish. In the meantime use the cavity wax on any box sections, sills, doors etc.
The car was up on jack stands for a couple of weeks, all done, but I now know it's been done properly, and for only a hundred quid.
All the best
Rich
I decided to go with a Dinitrol kit like this: https://rejel.com/din02/
Step one was to get the car as high off the ground as possible, wheels removed, wheel arch liners, side skirts etc. Then it's using a hard wire brush/drill attachment to grind back any rusty areas. I was lucky not to find anything that needed welding, but that is always the fear!
Then, spray the rust converter on, wait 24 hours, before coating with 4941 which leaves a really good finish. In the meantime use the cavity wax on any box sections, sills, doors etc.
The car was up on jack stands for a couple of weeks, all done, but I now know it's been done properly, and for only a hundred quid.
All the best
Rich
HealeyV8 said:
Keeping an eye on this thread as I'm considering this for my Healey. No recommendations for South London area yet unfortunately.
Thoroughly recommend CSK automotive in Hoddesdon if you don't mind a little bit of a drive, they will need the car for a few days.i've had two of my JDM imports treated and undersealed by Chris and wouldn't go anywhere else.
designforlife said:
Thoroughly recommend CSK automotive in Hoddesdon if you don't mind a little bit of a drive, they will need the car for a few days.
i've had two of my JDM imports treated and undersealed by Chris and wouldn't go anywhere else.
Would you mind sharing a ballpark figure re costs and what products he uses? i've had two of my JDM imports treated and undersealed by Chris and wouldn't go anywhere else.
Rich135 said:
I have just done my 1988 MR2 myself, and while it is a bit of work, it is very rewarding.
I decided to go with a Dinitrol kit like this: https://rejel.com/din02/
Step one was to get the car as high off the ground as possible, wheels removed, wheel arch liners, side skirts etc. Then it's using a hard wire brush/drill attachment to grind back any rusty areas. I was lucky not to find anything that needed welding, but that is always the fear!
Then, spray the rust converter on, wait 24 hours, before coating with 4941 which leaves a really good finish. In the meantime use the cavity wax on any box sections, sills, doors etc.
The car was up on jack stands for a couple of weeks, all done, but I now know it's been done properly, and for only a hundred quid.
All the best
Rich
Dinitrol products are the nuts which is why the likes of Volvo approved them amongst others , I would always suggest doing this in the warm weather especially the cavity wax as it creeps into tight joins and cavities and surplus drains away far better in warmer ambient temps , DIY is going to make a better job IMO do your homework and take your time ......Dont rush , dont pudding wax/underseal/stone guard etc over corrosion treat & paint 1st with suitable products Electrox (Bilt Hamber) Rust Bullet etc I decided to go with a Dinitrol kit like this: https://rejel.com/din02/
Step one was to get the car as high off the ground as possible, wheels removed, wheel arch liners, side skirts etc. Then it's using a hard wire brush/drill attachment to grind back any rusty areas. I was lucky not to find anything that needed welding, but that is always the fear!
Then, spray the rust converter on, wait 24 hours, before coating with 4941 which leaves a really good finish. In the meantime use the cavity wax on any box sections, sills, doors etc.
The car was up on jack stands for a couple of weeks, all done, but I now know it's been done properly, and for only a hundred quid.
All the best
Rich
Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 22 November 09:59
arguti said:
designforlife said:
Thoroughly recommend CSK automotive in Hoddesdon if you don't mind a little bit of a drive, they will need the car for a few days.
i've had two of my JDM imports treated and undersealed by Chris and wouldn't go anywhere else.
Would you mind sharing a ballpark figure re costs and what products he uses? i've had two of my JDM imports treated and undersealed by Chris and wouldn't go anywhere else.
that was for a full steam clean and removal of old underseal, couple of bits of surface rust treated, then a full underseal including arches with Dintitrol, and waxoyl in the box section cavities. takes 2-4 days depending on the state of the car.
They are a land rover specialist, but do the rust treatment abnd protection on all makes.
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