748 suspension set up
Discussion
Reverted my new 748 to factory settings the other day and its toss!
Went on a nice sweeping right hander with a couple of bumps on it and thought i was going to loose the front end!
Cant remember what it was set on before i re set it so:
What do you recomend for a 14 stone guy who enjoys some tom foolery every now and then?
(apart from, lay of the pies etc. etc.)
Went on a nice sweeping right hander with a couple of bumps on it and thought i was going to loose the front end!
Cant remember what it was set on before i re set it so:
What do you recomend for a 14 stone guy who enjoys some tom foolery every now and then?
(apart from, lay of the pies etc. etc.)
Firstly at standstill you may need to add a little more preload as you and the bikes unsprung weight is a little above Mario's down in Bologna. Ducati set up for an average rider weight of around 11st. Add a little more preload (5 lines showing up front) (20mm of thread above top lock ring on rear) and then go for a ride. If the front feels vague or is still understeering then it may be running too little rebound damping. Sit on the bike and hold the front brake on, then push down on the bars hard and watch as the forks recoil. If they come up really quick (quicker than going down) then add rebound damping ONE click at a time and test ride after each adjustment. ONLY ADJUST ONE THING AT A TIME BETWEEN RIDES AND KEEP NOTES OF YOUR ADJUSTMENTS.
Performance Bikes Setup Guide for the 748 suggests:
If you only do one thing: Add a bit of rebound damping at the front to stop it bouncing back off the brakes and add a little preload.
Front:
Preload = 5 lines showing
Rebound = 10 clicks out from full
Compression = 12 clicks out from full
Rear:
Preload = 20mm of thread above top lock ring
Rebound = 14 clicks out from full
Compresssion = 14 clicks out from full
On my Duke I ran stock settings which made the bike feel like it was turning in way to quick. It didn't seem to do this when I had a pillion on the rear (I prefer a slower turning bike that you have to make an effort to steer). I took it back to Moto Rapido in Winchester and they advised that the rear ride height was a little high. This was the cause of the fast steering. It was dropped down by 15mm and one click more rebound damping was added at the front and the bike handled like a dream. Speak to those in the know. Cornerspeed, Tecmoto, Moto Rapido or Protwins are all Duke specialists that could offer advice on setup.
Performance Bikes Setup Guide for the 748 suggests:
If you only do one thing: Add a bit of rebound damping at the front to stop it bouncing back off the brakes and add a little preload.
Front:
Preload = 5 lines showing
Rebound = 10 clicks out from full
Compression = 12 clicks out from full
Rear:
Preload = 20mm of thread above top lock ring
Rebound = 14 clicks out from full
Compresssion = 14 clicks out from full
On my Duke I ran stock settings which made the bike feel like it was turning in way to quick. It didn't seem to do this when I had a pillion on the rear (I prefer a slower turning bike that you have to make an effort to steer). I took it back to Moto Rapido in Winchester and they advised that the rear ride height was a little high. This was the cause of the fast steering. It was dropped down by 15mm and one click more rebound damping was added at the front and the bike handled like a dream. Speak to those in the know. Cornerspeed, Tecmoto, Moto Rapido or Protwins are all Duke specialists that could offer advice on setup.
ou can't set up a bike based on magazine settings. All bikes leave the factory with diff tolerances in the suspension parts, shock, etc.
You need to ensure that you have the correct weight srings front and rear to start with. All the damping does is control the rate at which the spring moves. Sag is critical. Once you have the correct srping rates, you can then experiment with the damping. Anyone who claims to give you a 'spec shet' is making easy money. They haven't sen you ride, got your feedback from the settings, seen the tyres, etc....
PS on stock suspension, you normally move the settings MORE THAN ONE CLICK at at time to see the difference. They are normally designed with a limited range of '
up factor' in mind to allow people with limited knowledge to have a fiddle and not kill themselves.
Alternatively, go to a trackday/race, and there will be plenty of people you can approach for help with the bike. Many of the trackday companies will work with you all day, explaining what they do as they go. Don't be scared to have a play with the settings yourself. Only change one thing at a time though so you don' confuse the signals the revised settings are giving you.
Good luck.
You need to ensure that you have the correct weight srings front and rear to start with. All the damping does is control the rate at which the spring moves. Sag is critical. Once you have the correct srping rates, you can then experiment with the damping. Anyone who claims to give you a 'spec shet' is making easy money. They haven't sen you ride, got your feedback from the settings, seen the tyres, etc....
PS on stock suspension, you normally move the settings MORE THAN ONE CLICK at at time to see the difference. They are normally designed with a limited range of '
up factor' in mind to allow people with limited knowledge to have a fiddle and not kill themselves. Alternatively, go to a trackday/race, and there will be plenty of people you can approach for help with the bike. Many of the trackday companies will work with you all day, explaining what they do as they go. Don't be scared to have a play with the settings yourself. Only change one thing at a time though so you don' confuse the signals the revised settings are giving you.
Good luck.
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