Solar battery maintainers - are they any good?
Discussion
My Eunos needs a jump start if it's left sitting for more than a couple of weeks. I think it's the aftermarket immobiliser that's doing it.
There's no power in the garage it's in, so I was considering a solar trickle charger, if I can get the lead to stretch far enough to put the panel outside. However I've seen quite a few reviews from people complaining they can actually drain your battery.
Does anyone use them and how have they performed?
There's no power in the garage it's in, so I was considering a solar trickle charger, if I can get the lead to stretch far enough to put the panel outside. However I've seen quite a few reviews from people complaining they can actually drain your battery.
Does anyone use them and how have they performed?
Personally, I'd just fit a battery disconnector ( 'Dis-car-nect' or similar), to prevent the battery discharging in the first place.
The charge in a disconnected battery will decline, but very slowly indeed, so you should be fine unless you leave the car untouched for many months, or years, at a time.... in which case, remove the battery, take it home with you and keep it on a mains trickle charger.
The charge in a disconnected battery will decline, but very slowly indeed, so you should be fine unless you leave the car untouched for many months, or years, at a time.... in which case, remove the battery, take it home with you and keep it on a mains trickle charger.
Thanks, that's a nice idea. Ideally I'm looking for something easy which doesn't involve me disconnecting the battery terminals, as I drive it a couple of times a week usually. Can it be driven with the device still installed?
I can just keep jump starting it, but I am a clumsy bugger and at some point I will electrocute myself (again), unless I have a responsible adult with me.
I can just keep jump starting it, but I am a clumsy bugger and at some point I will electrocute myself (again), unless I have a responsible adult with me.
As above or something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Master-Isolator...
They're as cheap as chips but may last longer
They're as cheap as chips but may last longer
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Monday 30th December 11:42
I have tried a couple of car solar chargers, one in the uk and one in thailand which I brought over from the UK. Both pretty hopeless to be honest which was a surprise, particularly in thailand where it is sunny and hot for long periods so I can’t blame english weather for a solar charger not working !
Problem with the discarnect is that unless you completely disconnect it you'll still get the battery drain.
I've got one of the type that Penelope Stopit links to on my RRC. If you can mount it inside the car then fine - you are likely to need to extend the main battery cable, otherwise you'll be lifting the bonnet to access it every time you use the car.
You can get remotely switched ones that are effectively a big relay. Simple to run the thin wire that's needed to turn it on & off & have a switch inside the car either hidden or hidden-in-plain-view by purporting to be for something else. You need one capable of carrying the current required for cranking. Problem is they're not cheap.
Perhaps one of those more up on electrics than me can comment on what sort of minimum amperage.
Usually see it as not recommended to turn the car off by operating any of the above as the alternator won't like it.
Bear in mind that if you disconnect the battery you may need to reset various car electrics when you reconnect.
I've got one of the type that Penelope Stopit links to on my RRC. If you can mount it inside the car then fine - you are likely to need to extend the main battery cable, otherwise you'll be lifting the bonnet to access it every time you use the car.
You can get remotely switched ones that are effectively a big relay. Simple to run the thin wire that's needed to turn it on & off & have a switch inside the car either hidden or hidden-in-plain-view by purporting to be for something else. You need one capable of carrying the current required for cranking. Problem is they're not cheap.
Perhaps one of those more up on electrics than me can comment on what sort of minimum amperage.
Usually see it as not recommended to turn the car off by operating any of the above as the alternator won't like it.
Bear in mind that if you disconnect the battery you may need to reset various car electrics when you reconnect.
Edited by paintman on Monday 30th December 21:05
True.
Once you've ruled a dying battery out it depends how long you're leaving the car between uses & what electrical systems you have on the car that require power at all times.
No good just starting it up from time to time as you won't be replacing the power used for starting by leaving it idling or just a quick run round the block.
In the context of this thread the isolation is not for immobilisation.
Once you've ruled a dying battery out it depends how long you're leaving the car between uses & what electrical systems you have on the car that require power at all times.
No good just starting it up from time to time as you won't be replacing the power used for starting by leaving it idling or just a quick run round the block.
In the context of this thread the isolation is not for immobilisation.
Edited by paintman on Monday 30th December 21:28
Alan535 said:
Why not find out whether you have a good battery or a power drain?Is it worth having an immobiliser on a modern car surely the key/car contains one already?
No there’s no immobiliser in the key. The immobiliser is a Sigma S30 and was fitted by a previous owner. I’m not too bothered about it (the alarm is too sensitive anyway so I don’t use it) but it’s probably easier not to have to rip it out. The battery is less than 2 years old so I think it’s more likely to be a drain than a dead battery. However I haven’t totally ruled that out
If you're not sure how to do that then this wiki is one of the more comprehensive 'how tos'.
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-D...
(Check that there isn't a switch operated by having the bonnet open - a light or anything else)
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-D...
(Check that there isn't a switch operated by having the bonnet open - a light or anything else)
paintman said:
Problem with the discarnect is that unless you completely disconnect it you'll still get the battery drain.
I've got one of the type that Penelope Stopit links to on my RRC. If you can mount it inside the car then fine - you are likely to need to extend the main battery cable, otherwise you'll be lifting the bonnet to access it every time you use the car.
You can get remotely switched ones that are effectively a big relay. Simple to run the thin wire that's needed to turn it on & off & have a switch inside the car either hidden or hidden-in-plain-view by purporting to be for something else. You need one capable of carrying the current required for cranking. Problem is they're not cheap.
Perhaps one of those more up on electrics than me can comment on what sort of minimum amperage.
Usually see it as not recommended to turn the car off by operating any of the above as the alternator won't like it.
Bear in mind that if you disconnect the battery you may need to reset various car electrics when you reconnect.
Starter motor current consumption is a tricky one as they vary so much from car to carI've got one of the type that Penelope Stopit links to on my RRC. If you can mount it inside the car then fine - you are likely to need to extend the main battery cable, otherwise you'll be lifting the bonnet to access it every time you use the car.
You can get remotely switched ones that are effectively a big relay. Simple to run the thin wire that's needed to turn it on & off & have a switch inside the car either hidden or hidden-in-plain-view by purporting to be for something else. You need one capable of carrying the current required for cranking. Problem is they're not cheap.
Perhaps one of those more up on electrics than me can comment on what sort of minimum amperage.
Usually see it as not recommended to turn the car off by operating any of the above as the alternator won't like it.
Bear in mind that if you disconnect the battery you may need to reset various car electrics when you reconnect.
Edited by paintman on Monday 30th December 21:05
Small engine could have a 1 Kilowatt starter
Big engine could have a 3 kilowatt starter
Calculating at 3 KW - 3000 ÷ 12 Volts = 250 Amps when starter is turning at operating speed
Same starter @ lock-up current draw (start up current, stationary engine) could easily be 2 times the above or more
Cheap as chips Master Switches are often rated at 100 Amps continuous and don't always give a max current rating, guessing they will handle 700 to 800 Amps for a few seconds
FIA Master Switch (forget where seen) is rated 150 Amps continuous and 1200 Amps max for 5 seconds (starting)
Plus the FIA can be switched to off with engine running without damaging the alternator (dumps alt to ground through resistor)
Solid state rated 500 to 600 Amps continuous https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/battery-isolators...
Expensive but.....
So small for what they do
Expensive but.....
So small for what they do
Funnily enough was watchung this Harrys Garage video the other day.
https://youtu.be/LhX0Y2wQfqo
His Merc seemed to start fine after 2 months on a solar charger
https://youtu.be/LhX0Y2wQfqo
His Merc seemed to start fine after 2 months on a solar charger
Here is the deal with solar:. ( Solar is one of my businesses)
There are two ways of doing this
1) the dash type panels that plug into your cig socket. These are usually around 12w . Because the power is so low, they mostly don't need a solar regulator (to stop the charge once the battery is full). They cannot flatten your battery if they have reverse blocking diodes installed. They work well in the summer. They offer next to nothing in the winter. You need to almost always hard wire them as cars rarely have permanent live going to their cig sockets.
2) a regular solar panel and a solar regulator (charger). For all year round, and to keep ahead of the solar regulators load, don't waste your time with anything under 25-40 Watts. Solar regulators are powered by your battery, not the solar. In the winter, on a grey day, expect nothing. Zero. Nada. I've seen 110w panels produce 0.01amps on a grey November UK day. Your regulator won't use much, but it adds up over a prolonged grey spell. When the sun does come out in winter, a 40w panel will be enough to trickle charge your battery and keep ahead of the grey days .
For a garage with one car I'd recommend. 40w panel, and an MPPT solar regulator.
You can get quick release magnetic connectors. I use one on my car for its mains charger.
There are two ways of doing this
1) the dash type panels that plug into your cig socket. These are usually around 12w . Because the power is so low, they mostly don't need a solar regulator (to stop the charge once the battery is full). They cannot flatten your battery if they have reverse blocking diodes installed. They work well in the summer. They offer next to nothing in the winter. You need to almost always hard wire them as cars rarely have permanent live going to their cig sockets.
2) a regular solar panel and a solar regulator (charger). For all year round, and to keep ahead of the solar regulators load, don't waste your time with anything under 25-40 Watts. Solar regulators are powered by your battery, not the solar. In the winter, on a grey day, expect nothing. Zero. Nada. I've seen 110w panels produce 0.01amps on a grey November UK day. Your regulator won't use much, but it adds up over a prolonged grey spell. When the sun does come out in winter, a 40w panel will be enough to trickle charge your battery and keep ahead of the grey days .
For a garage with one car I'd recommend. 40w panel, and an MPPT solar regulator.
You can get quick release magnetic connectors. I use one on my car for its mains charger.
RogerDodger said:
Here is the deal with solar:. ( Solar is one of my businesses)
There is only one effective way of doing this....
A regular solar panel and a solar regulator (charger). For all year round, and to keep ahead of the solar regulators load, don't waste your time with anything under 25-40 Watts. Solar regulators are powered by your battery, not the solar. In the winter, on a grey day, expect nothing. Zero. Nada. I've seen 110w panels produce 0.01amps on a grey November UK day. Your regulator won't use much, but it adds up over a prolonged grey spell. When the sun does come out in winter, a 40w panel will be enough to trickle charge your battery and keep ahead of the grey days .
For a garage with one car I'd recommend. 40w panel, and an MPPT solar regulator.
A friend runs this setup, his 40w solar panel is mounted on the roof of his council lockup with the regulator inside in the dry, he lives away from the car but it's local to me so every now and then I'll drop by to check on his car and the state of his battery, I checked it last week and after a full year on the solar charger and car driven very infrequently the battery was showing a super healthy 12.8v.There is only one effective way of doing this....
A regular solar panel and a solar regulator (charger). For all year round, and to keep ahead of the solar regulators load, don't waste your time with anything under 25-40 Watts. Solar regulators are powered by your battery, not the solar. In the winter, on a grey day, expect nothing. Zero. Nada. I've seen 110w panels produce 0.01amps on a grey November UK day. Your regulator won't use much, but it adds up over a prolonged grey spell. When the sun does come out in winter, a 40w panel will be enough to trickle charge your battery and keep ahead of the grey days .
For a garage with one car I'd recommend. 40w panel, and an MPPT solar regulator.
HOWEVER!
While his solar system is clearly charging/regulating effectively and staying ahead of the battery's natural discharge rate and what the regulaor is pulling out, we found the setup is only effective if the battery is left disconnected. If the battery remains connected his GPS tracker will get ahead of the solar system within a week, by week two the battery is fully discharged and completely incapable of starting the car.
So like my friend the OP really only has two options:
1. If the battery is going to be left connected the OP must find and eliminatie his parasitic draw, having done so a 40w panel with a decent regulator should work well, but it's really not worth buying such a solar charging system without addressing the parasitic draw first because it simply won't keep up
2. Choose a way of disconnecting his battery, there are many ways to do this from simply unbolting a battery terminal connection with a spanner which costs nothing and takes seconds, to fancy expensive solid state disconnection devices with a simple £10 teminal turn knob disconnect device in between.
The reality is as long as the OP disconnects his battery when he parks up and is using his car once every couple of months he almost certainly doesnt need a solar charger at all, however if like my friend he leaves the car longer without driving it this is where a proper solar charger system starts to make sense.
If the OP wants to keep the battery connected so the car's security system remains armed my experience is there's really little point in investing in a solar charger because at best it'll probaly only give him a few extra days, by the sound of it his security system is just like my friend's GPS tracker that will beat the charger within a week or so.
As my friend ofted doesnt use his car for two to three months he had to accept (solar charger or no solar charger) the battery needed to be left disconnected, clearly this made his expensive GPS tracker and subscription completely pointless. After putting the car away he now disconnects his battery and connects it to his 40w panel and a good quality regulator setup, so for him a solar system works well but it only really makes sense for extended periods and the battery absolutely must be disconnected.
Penelope Stopit said:
Solid state rated 500 to 600 Amps continuous https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/battery-isolators...
Expensive but.....
So small for what they do
The Cartek GT kit with switches is £275 which is crazy expensive, for £145 you can by the far superior Alfatronix PT100 PowerTector Solid State Battery Guard which adds the additional feature of monitoring source voltage and will automatically disconnect the battery if the voltage falls below a pre-determined level, the Cartek GT is a whopping £130 more expensive and doesnt offer this useful feature. Expensive but.....
So small for what they do
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALFATRONIX-PT100-POWERT...
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