Rust treatment/prevention - which Bilt Hamber products?
Discussion
I'm looking to treat surface rust on the underside of a car that I've had off the road for a few years. I then want to seal to prevent any further rust from returning.
I've had a long search on here and have decided to go with the Bilt Hamber range as their products have superb reviews. However, they have a huge selction and it is hurting my head deciding what I need to go for.
Is anyone able to outline some steps with the key products required?
I was thinking Hydrate 80 to treat and then Dynax-UB to seal... but I'm probably missing out some key bits inbetween?
Thanks
I've had a long search on here and have decided to go with the Bilt Hamber range as their products have superb reviews. However, they have a huge selction and it is hurting my head deciding what I need to go for.
Is anyone able to outline some steps with the key products required?
I was thinking Hydrate 80 to treat and then Dynax-UB to seal... but I'm probably missing out some key bits inbetween?
Thanks
If you want the very best treatment possible, then take everything down to bare metal and treat any "pitted" areas with Hydrate 80. Let it do its thing for the longest time it suggests, then treat it a second time, using brush strokes against what you did first time round.
Follow that up by treating everywhere with Electrox. It's a fantastic Zinc Treatment. They sell it either in an aerosol or in a tin, which can be brushed on or thinned down and sprayed on. If you're spraying it on then thin it down with pure Xylene, not regular thinners. Again, give 2 coats.
Then key this up and prime everywhere. I'd recommend Lehcler Green TI Primer. I'd leave that to settle for a couple of days and do its thing, then flat it all back (doesn't need to be perfect as the next stage will hide minor imperfections).
The next stage would be to coat the body with UPol Raptor. This comes in either black or tintable, so you can add body colour to it. This is as close to an indestructible as you can get. Once that's finished treat all cavities and hidden areas with Dynax S50. It's lab proven to be the best on the market. It will ooze out and is a brown-ish colour, so use panel wipe to remove any residue in areas you don't want it to be seen. Then treat the seen areas and surfaces with Dynax UC, which is clear.
That may sound quite involved, but you don't want to trap any corrosion in and make it worse and it's best to do it once and do it right!
Follow that up by treating everywhere with Electrox. It's a fantastic Zinc Treatment. They sell it either in an aerosol or in a tin, which can be brushed on or thinned down and sprayed on. If you're spraying it on then thin it down with pure Xylene, not regular thinners. Again, give 2 coats.
Then key this up and prime everywhere. I'd recommend Lehcler Green TI Primer. I'd leave that to settle for a couple of days and do its thing, then flat it all back (doesn't need to be perfect as the next stage will hide minor imperfections).
The next stage would be to coat the body with UPol Raptor. This comes in either black or tintable, so you can add body colour to it. This is as close to an indestructible as you can get. Once that's finished treat all cavities and hidden areas with Dynax S50. It's lab proven to be the best on the market. It will ooze out and is a brown-ish colour, so use panel wipe to remove any residue in areas you don't want it to be seen. Then treat the seen areas and surfaces with Dynax UC, which is clear.
That may sound quite involved, but you don't want to trap any corrosion in and make it worse and it's best to do it once and do it right!
mbwoy84 said:
Epoxy Mastic is absolutely terrible stuff which is totally unsuitable for automotive use. No professional would ever touch it.
It's perfect for the job, not that it matters, but do you think the OP is a Pro?mbwoy84 said:
The only thing I'd recommend it for is if you have a static car which is kept outside and has bare metal showing, until it's ready to be done properly.
Which is exactly what the OP has.Thanks appreciate both your replies.
Bilt Hamber appear to sell their own Epoxy Mastic, so it can't be too bad? https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-an... and I noticed that they recommend using it in the following guide: https://bilt-hamber.freshdesk.com/support/solution...
I don't just want to apply it on its own though and would like to apply a more in depth treatment as suggested by mbwoy84 above, but yes I'm probably as far from a pro as you could imagine!
How do the following steps sound for a slightly less in depth version?:
1) Wire brush down to bare metal and apply Hydrate 80
2) Prime with Electrox
3) Coat with Epoxy Mastic
4) Seal/wax with one of the Dynax's
They recommend Dynax-UB in the above guide I found, can this or Dynax-UC be used everywhere? I don't really want to buy 3 very similar products?
Thanks
Bilt Hamber appear to sell their own Epoxy Mastic, so it can't be too bad? https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-an... and I noticed that they recommend using it in the following guide: https://bilt-hamber.freshdesk.com/support/solution...
I don't just want to apply it on its own though and would like to apply a more in depth treatment as suggested by mbwoy84 above, but yes I'm probably as far from a pro as you could imagine!
How do the following steps sound for a slightly less in depth version?:
1) Wire brush down to bare metal and apply Hydrate 80
2) Prime with Electrox
3) Coat with Epoxy Mastic
4) Seal/wax with one of the Dynax's
They recommend Dynax-UB in the above guide I found, can this or Dynax-UC be used everywhere? I don't really want to buy 3 very similar products?
Thanks
You might wanna check some Youtube vids of what's left of cars that have had a mastic applied!
Anything that allows moisture to penetrate under the application will result in rust. The chances of being able to properly bond and seal the product on your driveway are slim at best.
I use ACF-50 applied with a HVLP spray mist gun. It's an oil based product developed for the aircraft industry. It doesn't so much remove rust, it stops it in its tracks and neutralises it completely. It's the only product I've used that works long term. You do need to apply it yearly though.
Anything that allows moisture to penetrate under the application will result in rust. The chances of being able to properly bond and seal the product on your driveway are slim at best.
I use ACF-50 applied with a HVLP spray mist gun. It's an oil based product developed for the aircraft industry. It doesn't so much remove rust, it stops it in its tracks and neutralises it completely. It's the only product I've used that works long term. You do need to apply it yearly though.
Belle427 said:
isn’t epoxy mastic designed to be applied over clean metal not an already rusted surface?
I’d probably do as suggested and clean back as best possible, treat with hydrate 80 and then apply an oily type coating as suggested above.
I’ve heard great things about ACF-50.
No:I’d probably do as suggested and clean back as best possible, treat with hydrate 80 and then apply an oily type coating as suggested above.
I’ve heard great things about ACF-50.
https://www.rust.co.uk/files/pdf/3-year-test-summa...
ACF just washes off eventually.
227bhp said:
Yep, you need to apply it yearly before winter ideally, but it 100% works so is worth the effort. Well I'm not really any clearer to be honest. Some saying to avoid Epoxy Mastic like the plague and others (including Mr. Hamber himself) saying use it...
For info, Bilt Hamber have advised to:
Apply Hydrate 80 when cleaned back steel still has traces of corrosion.
OR
In the event the steel is substantially corroded, then omit Hydrate 80 and use Electrox, never use both together. So the choice is either Hydrate 80 or Electrox depending on cleanliness achieved at the prep stage.
Coat with Epoxy Mastic over either the Hydrate 80 or Electrox
Seal/wax with Dynax UB
These guys manufacture the products, so you'd like to think they know what they're talking about, but it goes against what some have been saying in this thread... I'm open to further thoughts before I go ahead and purchase.
Has anyone had any experience of using a similar method to the above?
The car is currently SORN and I don't want to have to re-apply yearly so I probably wouldn't consider ACF or a product that requires regular 'top up'.
For info, Bilt Hamber have advised to:
Apply Hydrate 80 when cleaned back steel still has traces of corrosion.
OR
In the event the steel is substantially corroded, then omit Hydrate 80 and use Electrox, never use both together. So the choice is either Hydrate 80 or Electrox depending on cleanliness achieved at the prep stage.
Coat with Epoxy Mastic over either the Hydrate 80 or Electrox
Seal/wax with Dynax UB
These guys manufacture the products, so you'd like to think they know what they're talking about, but it goes against what some have been saying in this thread... I'm open to further thoughts before I go ahead and purchase.
Has anyone had any experience of using a similar method to the above?
The car is currently SORN and I don't want to have to re-apply yearly so I probably wouldn't consider ACF or a product that requires regular 'top up'.
moxy89 said:
JRC1, you didn’t happen to have a white furio With a vts lump in it about 12 years ago did you ?
Ha yes I did and I still have it, this is the car I'm talking about in this thread. Can't ever sell it! Hope you're well mate.I used the Rust Control Primer from Buzzweld which I've found to be rather excellent.
It's a primer and magnetite converter in one that takes over six months to fully convert the metal.
You wire brush and clean the surface, de-grease then wash and apply two coats of RCP.
I did the very rusty diff cover on my elderly Ford Ranger back in March and so far no rust has reappeared and it doesn't leak.
It's a primer and magnetite converter in one that takes over six months to fully convert the metal.
You wire brush and clean the surface, de-grease then wash and apply two coats of RCP.
I did the very rusty diff cover on my elderly Ford Ranger back in March and so far no rust has reappeared and it doesn't leak.
moxy89 said:
No way... I really wish I never sold mine now. Would have another one in a heart beat!!! You still in the Southampton area ?
Yes mate hardly any about now, see a few pop up on eBay from time to time and they want good money for them. Yeah Southampton/Winchester.Partyvan said:
After witnessing so many issues with BH stuff, I wouldn't use any of it.
There's plenty of other quality products on the market, most of it cheaper too.
Are you able to elaborate on some of the issues you've witnessed? Just curious because I spent ages searching on here before posting and anything to do with rust people seemed to be raving about BH.There's plenty of other quality products on the market, most of it cheaper too.
cologne2792 said:
I used the Rust Control Primer from Buzzweld which I've found to be rather excellent.
It's a primer and magnetite converter in one that takes over six months to fully convert the metal.
You wire brush and clean the surface, de-grease then wash and apply two coats of RCP.
I did the very rusty diff cover on my elderly Ford Ranger back in March and so far no rust has reappeared and it doesn't leak.
Thanks.It's a primer and magnetite converter in one that takes over six months to fully convert the metal.
You wire brush and clean the surface, de-grease then wash and apply two coats of RCP.
I did the very rusty diff cover on my elderly Ford Ranger back in March and so far no rust has reappeared and it doesn't leak.
This one? https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/rust-primer.html
Or this one? https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/rust-encapsulator.html
and did you apply anything else before/after?
cologne2792 said:
I used the Rust Control Primer from Buzzweld which I've found to be rather excellent.
It's a primer and magnetite converter in one that takes over six months to fully convert the metal.
You wire brush and clean the surface, de-grease then wash and apply two coats of RCP.
I did the very rusty diff cover on my elderly Ford Ranger back in March and so far no rust has reappeared and it doesn't leak.
Thanks.It's a primer and magnetite converter in one that takes over six months to fully convert the metal.
You wire brush and clean the surface, de-grease then wash and apply two coats of RCP.
I did the very rusty diff cover on my elderly Ford Ranger back in March and so far no rust has reappeared and it doesn't leak.
This one? https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/rust-primer.html
Or this one? https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/rust-encapsulator.html
and did you apply anything else before/after?
The primary difference being that it has a quicker recoat time.
Other than prep, de-grease and washing in clean water I just applied it to the casing.
They do some very good chassis top coats - Chassis In One (CIO) being the favoured, simple 1 pack solution but other 2 pack options are available.
I was in a rush so I just left the casing in RCP which is permissible as it's a non-porous coating.
Very impressive stuff and I'm going to paint the rest of the chassis once the warm, dry weather appears and I have my steam cleaner working.
cologne2792 said:
Yes that's the one, except it's now been largely superseded by Rust Encapsulator.
The primary difference being that it has a quicker recoat time.
Other than prep, de-grease and washing in clean water I just applied it to the casing.
They do some very good chassis top coats - Chassis In One (CIO) being the favoured, simple 1 pack solution but other 2 pack options are available.
I was in a rush so I just left the casing in RCP which is permissible as it's a non-porous coating.
Very impressive stuff and I'm going to paint the rest of the chassis once the warm, dry weather appears and I have my steam cleaner working.
Very helpful, thanks. Can I ask how you applied it, and how much did you use?The primary difference being that it has a quicker recoat time.
Other than prep, de-grease and washing in clean water I just applied it to the casing.
They do some very good chassis top coats - Chassis In One (CIO) being the favoured, simple 1 pack solution but other 2 pack options are available.
I was in a rush so I just left the casing in RCP which is permissible as it's a non-porous coating.
Very impressive stuff and I'm going to paint the rest of the chassis once the warm, dry weather appears and I have my steam cleaner working.
They appear to offer in Aerosol, Schultz or Tin format.
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff