Discussion
When I bought the beast (52 reg Tuscan), I was warned to check the oil weekly as it was likely to need frequent top-ups.
It's been more than 2 months since I drove it away from Silverstone TVR (thanks, Matt & Steve !), and I've put perhaps 400-500 miles on it since then. I check the oil perhaps every two weeks after a decent run as I was advised. And the oil level doesn't seem to have moved one iota. It always seems to sit just above the "MAX" mark on the dipstick, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm doing it right (!) - is it unusual not to need to top up the oil ?
Dr. D.
It's been more than 2 months since I drove it away from Silverstone TVR (thanks, Matt & Steve !), and I've put perhaps 400-500 miles on it since then. I check the oil perhaps every two weeks after a decent run as I was advised. And the oil level doesn't seem to have moved one iota. It always seems to sit just above the "MAX" mark on the dipstick, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm doing it right (!) - is it unusual not to need to top up the oil ?
Dr. D.
Dr D from what I can gather no two are the same. Since changing a leaking oil pressure sensor I have not used a drop (300 miles +)
There are loads of old threads on here if you do a search. The best time to check it is when the engine is very warm (some good old right footing
) and as soon as you turn the engine off, ideally before the pod bleeps.
Apparently the car has a dry sump thus draining away the oil fairly quickly into a reservior so the quiker you get a reading the better (I'm sure someone will give you a more technical analysis to correct me soon anyway)
There are loads of old threads on here if you do a search. The best time to check it is when the engine is very warm (some good old right footing
) and as soon as you turn the engine off, ideally before the pod bleeps. Apparently the car has a dry sump thus draining away the oil fairly quickly into a reservior so the quiker you get a reading the better (I'm sure someone will give you a more technical analysis to correct me soon anyway)
Thanks, Spongy ! Your explanation of the dry sump thing is consistent with what the guys at the dealership told me when I bought the Tuscan, although as I know sod-all about what goes on under the bonnet, I just nodded sagely ! Thing is , if the oil starts to drain away as soon as you turn off the engine, a reading above the MAX mark should indicate that I'm not oil-deficient !
I suspect there'll be more messages like this front me to this great forum....next it'll be a question about whether the various different noises I car hear coming from the engine and gearbox when I'm driving are normal or something to be worried about. Or a request for a foolproof technique for getting the roof into the boot every time without scratching it and cursing etc. etc. !
All great fun, though !
I suspect there'll be more messages like this front me to this great forum....next it'll be a question about whether the various different noises I car hear coming from the engine and gearbox when I'm driving are normal or something to be worried about. Or a request for a foolproof technique for getting the roof into the boot every time without scratching it and cursing etc. etc. !
All great fun, though !
Definately great fun.
I was told they all sound like a bag of stones being thrown down the stairs in a biscuit tin so I bought some carbon cans and now hear nothing of the engine! You can always turn the radio up!
As for the roof in the boot scenario, its like putting a jigsaw together when intoxicated and sleep deprived
Wouldn't worry too much about the oil being over the max as apparently they dump what they don't need (again I will stand corrected)
Happy motoring
I was told they all sound like a bag of stones being thrown down the stairs in a biscuit tin so I bought some carbon cans and now hear nothing of the engine! You can always turn the radio up!
As for the roof in the boot scenario, its like putting a jigsaw together when intoxicated and sleep deprived
Wouldn't worry too much about the oil being over the max as apparently they dump what they don't need (again I will stand corrected
) Happy motoring
Hey spongy, it seems we have twins!
Mine also has used no oil since replacing the leaky sensor.
Also, my engine sounds variously like a singer sowing machine, a flymo lawn mower or a girls marching band. It doesn't make a scrap of difference to the wrench in your back when you put your foot down.
I also cured this by buying Carbon Cans. Cant hear bugger all now.
My only real problem is getting the welded smile off my face!
Mine also has used no oil since replacing the leaky sensor.
Also, my engine sounds variously like a singer sowing machine, a flymo lawn mower or a girls marching band. It doesn't make a scrap of difference to the wrench in your back when you put your foot down.
I also cured this by buying Carbon Cans. Cant hear bugger all now.
My only real problem is getting the welded smile off my face!
I think we need to correct some misconceptions.
The dipstick reads from the dry sump tank, not the sump which is, after all, dry.
The reason for checking it warm, i believe is that all the oil that is meant to be in the engine is, and all in the tank is likewise. The thermal expansion coefficient of the oil is well within the error of fill.
At start up low oil will NOT show up as low pressure (There will still be oil in the tank to feed the high pressure (supply) pump). If your oil gets VERY low during use the temperature may drop suddenly as the sender in the tank (About 120mm up) clears. As the tank runs at a low pressure this will NOT alarm! as in a normal wet sump system hence the dire warning about checking. In heavy use the oil in the tank is transferred to the engine where a scavenge pump returns it to the tank. If there is not enough oil the high pressure pump may suck bubbles at some point as the tank incorporates a simple device to separate oil and air. This fails without enough oil volume to allow the bubbles to rise naturally.
I have been told that it is possible to fit an oil level sensor into a dry sump tank but the technology for this is not normally simple and therefore not normally cheap. Hence TVR don't fit it.
HUGELY IMPORTANT POINT FOR DRY SUMP SYSTEMS!!!!!!HUGELY IMPORTANT POINT FOR DRY SUMP SYSTEMS!!!!!!
Needs saying twice and in every forum.
If the oil is cold the bubbles DO NOT separate!
If the oil is cold the bubbles DO NOT separate!
Hence you must let the oil get to working temperature before thrashing the car.
If you use high viscosity race oil like Mobil 15-60 then it MUST be about 20degrees hotter than TVR guidelines before you give it the full welly.
Thick oil may not be lost down valve guides so easily but it will KILL YOUR ENGINE if not warm enough.
If you do short journeys mostly I would recommend an ultra low viscosity oil with an adhesive component that prevents drainage( A la magnatec or somesuch ). Lower than O grade at low temperature is not commercially available and TVRs recommended 5-40 Carlube or Mobil 1 are perfectly adequate within guidelines.
[THIS DATA IS PROVIDED FOR INFORMATION ONLY. THE AUTHOR, WHILST TAKING EVERY CARE IN FACTUAL ACCUARCY CANNOT INDEMNIFY ANY PERSON ACTING UPON THIS ADVICE]
Whilst I try to offer the best advice to my fellow Tuscaneers I must point out my fluid dynamics expertise is a little out of date and what I say is in good faith. I work in mostly gaseous dynamics now and I don't mean hot air
Regards,
Niall
>> Edited by mcspreader on Thursday 9th June 02:40
PS FOR TED you may want to crop this answer and lock it for all Tuscaneers edit it as you see fit me olds.
>> Edited by mcspreader on Thursday 9th June 02:44
The dipstick reads from the dry sump tank, not the sump which is, after all, dry.
The reason for checking it warm, i believe is that all the oil that is meant to be in the engine is, and all in the tank is likewise. The thermal expansion coefficient of the oil is well within the error of fill.
At start up low oil will NOT show up as low pressure (There will still be oil in the tank to feed the high pressure (supply) pump). If your oil gets VERY low during use the temperature may drop suddenly as the sender in the tank (About 120mm up) clears. As the tank runs at a low pressure this will NOT alarm! as in a normal wet sump system hence the dire warning about checking. In heavy use the oil in the tank is transferred to the engine where a scavenge pump returns it to the tank. If there is not enough oil the high pressure pump may suck bubbles at some point as the tank incorporates a simple device to separate oil and air. This fails without enough oil volume to allow the bubbles to rise naturally.
I have been told that it is possible to fit an oil level sensor into a dry sump tank but the technology for this is not normally simple and therefore not normally cheap. Hence TVR don't fit it.
HUGELY IMPORTANT POINT FOR DRY SUMP SYSTEMS!!!!!!HUGELY IMPORTANT POINT FOR DRY SUMP SYSTEMS!!!!!!
Needs saying twice and in every forum.
If the oil is cold the bubbles DO NOT separate!
If the oil is cold the bubbles DO NOT separate!
Hence you must let the oil get to working temperature before thrashing the car.
If you use high viscosity race oil like Mobil 15-60 then it MUST be about 20degrees hotter than TVR guidelines before you give it the full welly.
Thick oil may not be lost down valve guides so easily but it will KILL YOUR ENGINE if not warm enough.
If you do short journeys mostly I would recommend an ultra low viscosity oil with an adhesive component that prevents drainage( A la magnatec or somesuch ). Lower than O grade at low temperature is not commercially available and TVRs recommended 5-40 Carlube or Mobil 1 are perfectly adequate within guidelines.
[THIS DATA IS PROVIDED FOR INFORMATION ONLY. THE AUTHOR, WHILST TAKING EVERY CARE IN FACTUAL ACCUARCY CANNOT INDEMNIFY ANY PERSON ACTING UPON THIS ADVICE]
Whilst I try to offer the best advice to my fellow Tuscaneers I must point out my fluid dynamics expertise is a little out of date and what I say is in good faith. I work in mostly gaseous dynamics now and I don't mean hot air
Regards,
Niall
>> Edited by mcspreader on Thursday 9th June 02:40
PS FOR TED you may want to crop this answer and lock it for all Tuscaneers edit it as you see fit me olds.
>> Edited by mcspreader on Thursday 9th June 02:44
Cheers, people - I am suitably reassured that it isn't just my poor dip-sticking technique (ooeerr) that's responsible.
A potential pitfall of owning a TVR is that because everybody constantly tells you that they're unreliable, it's easy to become a "TVR hypochodriac" and start over-interpreting every single thing. I've never checked the oil on my M3 - I just assume it'll be OK.
Dr. D.
A potential pitfall of owning a TVR is that because everybody constantly tells you that they're unreliable, it's easy to become a "TVR hypochodriac" and start over-interpreting every single thing. I've never checked the oil on my M3 - I just assume it'll be OK.
Dr. D.
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