Correct Ib age for spring's...?
Discussion
Hi all
Now i know this as been asked hundred's of time's before but can anyone give me the wright Ib age for front and back spring's for my S2.
Have got new one as per the bible of 270 Ib back and 250 front the back dos'nt look to bad but the front is way off and i can only open me bonnet half way.
Please help...!!
Cheers
Kev
Now i know this as been asked hundred's of time's before but can anyone give me the wright Ib age for front and back spring's for my S2.
Have got new one as per the bible of 270 Ib back and 250 front the back dos'nt look to bad but the front is way off and i can only open me bonnet half way.
Please help...!!
Cheers
Kev
Ihave 350lb on the front and 300lb on the back, using Avos fully adjustable shocks,I used to have 300lb front and 250lb back, but the back was way to soft.
I would try same as mine or opt for same as gefopsman`s set up, being firmer it will improve handling, but depends on type of use you give the car, you need the higher poundage on the front to take weight of engine and braking forces etc.
Gefopsman, good to see you last weekend, forgot to ask, if you are on avos, if so what setting are you using on the dampers, I`m on the halfway mark, set at 10 clicks from soft.
>> Edited by clive f on Thursday 9th June 08:42
I would try same as mine or opt for same as gefopsman`s set up, being firmer it will improve handling, but depends on type of use you give the car, you need the higher poundage on the front to take weight of engine and braking forces etc.
Gefopsman, good to see you last weekend, forgot to ask, if you are on avos, if so what setting are you using on the dampers, I`m on the halfway mark, set at 10 clicks from soft.
>> Edited by clive f on Thursday 9th June 08:42
I think that you will find its more about the length of the spring rather than the poundage if you are sticking with the existing shocks.
If the shocks are not adjustable on the spring seat then you have no option but to increase the length of the spring if you want to raise the front.
On the poundage front and back, I have had much discussion with Pete Humpreys recently because the S series has a different suspension to all the rest of the marque and loses roughly 50% of its springing at the front when you get to wheel rate and 33.3% at the rear, this is why some advocate stronger springs at the front to balance this out.
In the case of the V6, it has a much more robust roll bar than everything else and with less power than the V8,power oversteer is not so much of a problem so to get balance I am now trying 350lb rear and 300lb front but I'm also going to polybush the whole car and do a four wheel alignment check.
>> Edited by bugsy on Thursday 9th June 08:58
If the shocks are not adjustable on the spring seat then you have no option but to increase the length of the spring if you want to raise the front.
On the poundage front and back, I have had much discussion with Pete Humpreys recently because the S series has a different suspension to all the rest of the marque and loses roughly 50% of its springing at the front when you get to wheel rate and 33.3% at the rear, this is why some advocate stronger springs at the front to balance this out.
In the case of the V6, it has a much more robust roll bar than everything else and with less power than the V8,power oversteer is not so much of a problem so to get balance I am now trying 350lb rear and 300lb front but I'm also going to polybush the whole car and do a four wheel alignment check.
>> Edited by bugsy on Thursday 9th June 08:58
clive f said:
Ihave 350lb on the front and 300lb on the back, using Avos fully adjustable shocks,I used to have 300lb front and 250lb back, but the back was way to soft.
I would try same as mine or opt for same as gefopsman`s set up, being firmer it will improve handling, but depends on type of use you give the car, you need the higher poundage on the front to take weight of engine and braking forces etc.
Gefopsman, good to see you last weekend, forgot to ask, if you are on avos, if so what setting are you using on the dampers, I`m on the halfway mark, set at 10 clicks from soft.
>> Edited by clive f on Thursday 9th June 08:42
He is not on Avo's
>> Edited by bugsy on Thursday 9th June 23:32
I *can* enter the AVO debate and there are most definitely better dampers around for the money.
Your new dampers should come with springs to your spec. If not you can expect to pay anything from £15 - £25 per spring. You need to spec the spring to suit the damper as well as the car, the rate needs to suit the car, the diameter needs to fit the damper, and the length needs to suit your desired ride height and the spring seat positions on that damper. Some dampers have several inches of travel so only only have to get it roughly right, but some don't. And different dampers have the spring seats in totally different positions so even with a huge range of adjustment you may struggle to get the ride height correct. Also make sure that the fully extended length is right for the car (otherwise you can damage the suspension, especially the front) and that the bump stops are the right length otherwise you can severely bugger the body against the tyre or the chassis against the ground. Very few aftermarket manufacturers bother to go into the detail necessary to get this right, often it seems that you are lucky if your dampers come with the correct end fittings and the right number of springs, so it is often worth paying that little bit more to go to a good specialist who will take care of all these gotchas for you.
Your new dampers should come with springs to your spec. If not you can expect to pay anything from £15 - £25 per spring. You need to spec the spring to suit the damper as well as the car, the rate needs to suit the car, the diameter needs to fit the damper, and the length needs to suit your desired ride height and the spring seat positions on that damper. Some dampers have several inches of travel so only only have to get it roughly right, but some don't. And different dampers have the spring seats in totally different positions so even with a huge range of adjustment you may struggle to get the ride height correct. Also make sure that the fully extended length is right for the car (otherwise you can damage the suspension, especially the front) and that the bump stops are the right length otherwise you can severely bugger the body against the tyre or the chassis against the ground. Very few aftermarket manufacturers bother to go into the detail necessary to get this right, often it seems that you are lucky if your dampers come with the correct end fittings and the right number of springs, so it is often worth paying that little bit more to go to a good specialist who will take care of all these gotchas for you.
Hi
I spoke to Avo in the week to order new springs and adjustable shocks for my S3, I am going to go for 350lb front and 300lb back. They have asked the length of the springs? Does anybody know what length they are, I will have trouble measuring them as the front have sagged so the measurement will not be accurate?
Cheers
I spoke to Avo in the week to order new springs and adjustable shocks for my S3, I am going to go for 350lb front and 300lb back. They have asked the length of the springs? Does anybody know what length they are, I will have trouble measuring them as the front have sagged so the measurement will not be accurate?
Cheers
I'm surprised that AVO are asking you to specify the spring length. They of all people ought to know that the spring length will depend where the spring seats are fitted. What they should have asked you for was the damper length at normal ride height; knowing the range of spring seat positions their dampers provide they can work out the appropriate spring lengths to suit.
9" is normal on Avo & GAZ.
One last word on this subject of springs on the V6S's.
Science tells us that the trailing arm set-up on the V6 is different to everything else that TVR make(S1 onwards) and that with a heavier roll bar on the front and a lot less power as standard, it shouldn't have the same set up as a Chim/Griff.
I have decided to test the science with an independant expert namely Topcats, these boys will work on my own S3 and set it up properly, i.e. full four wheel alignment, corner weighting and test the results of various spring set-ups and try it for me on their test ground.
I will publish the results.
BTW the V8S doesn't come into this because it does
need similar settings to the other V8's.
>> Edited by bugsy on Sunday 19th June 01:26
One last word on this subject of springs on the V6S's.
Science tells us that the trailing arm set-up on the V6 is different to everything else that TVR make(S1 onwards) and that with a heavier roll bar on the front and a lot less power as standard, it shouldn't have the same set up as a Chim/Griff.
I have decided to test the science with an independant expert namely Topcats, these boys will work on my own S3 and set it up properly, i.e. full four wheel alignment, corner weighting and test the results of various spring set-ups and try it for me on their test ground.
I will publish the results.
BTW the V8S doesn't come into this because it does
need similar settings to the other V8's.
>> Edited by bugsy on Sunday 19th June 01:26
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