tuscan bushes and wishbones
Discussion
I am going through the tuscan and a lot of the bushes look old and perished so think it might be good to replace them and refresh things.
is it worth changing the front wishbones and uprights (sure you need the later uprights to fit the later wishbone) to the later type? Would i see any benefit in that? part of me thinks that by the time I've paid someone to remove them and refit the existing bushes, powder coat the wishbones (they aren't that tatty but would be nice) i probably wouldn't be much worse off with new. would also love some sag steering arms as well as you can see the rack isn't sitting that parallel but I'm not sure if they are available or would necessarily work with my rack etc.
i had the rack raised and it was a lot better, infact i never did mind the front end its the rear i was never happy with.
is it worth changing the front wishbones and uprights (sure you need the later uprights to fit the later wishbone) to the later type? Would i see any benefit in that? part of me thinks that by the time I've paid someone to remove them and refit the existing bushes, powder coat the wishbones (they aren't that tatty but would be nice) i probably wouldn't be much worse off with new. would also love some sag steering arms as well as you can see the rack isn't sitting that parallel but I'm not sure if they are available or would necessarily work with my rack etc.
i had the rack raised and it was a lot better, infact i never did mind the front end its the rear i was never happy with.
I have a pair of the later front upper wishbones for sale but you need the matching uprights or redrill and tap the holes further out to match. I can’t comment on any improvement as I (obviously!) never got round to fitting them. I’ve also just made a batch of sag steering arms which may we’ll be up for grabs soon.
It would be really useful to know how much the sag arms lower the outer track rod. Based on pictures of the sag chassis, it looks like the wishbone mounting holes are around 25mm higher so I'd guess the arms lower the tre around 30mm or so, which would be way too much for a standard T car.
I have an early MK1 Tuscan and a Sag. The Sag is up tight with standard bushes and springs/dampers, it has 255s on Jade Rs on the front so the side walls are just off straight up and not “stretched”. The Tuscan has gaz golds (soon to be changed) and is black polybushed with 245s on the same rims, the side walls are just off straight up again. They both have been 4 wheel aligned with me watching/involved so with some confidence I can say the job has been done well.
So, I prefer the way the Tuscan drives. They both turn in very well and give good feed back but strangely I will push on more in the Tuscan than the Sag despite the Sag having better visibility and being lighter on the steering.
Personally I would stick with MK1 early set up as is, if you want to make it drive like a euro box try increasing the caster by swapping the top ball joint spacers to be in front. You will need to set camber and tracking again but this is cheaper than uprights and arms, you may not like it but it will dull it down. I have tried this and have swapped back as I like the sharp turn in.
There are others who know more about geo than me and I am sure they contribute but Sag pick up points are different so parts are not interchangeable unless you want to weld lugs, drill holes and have wheels poking out of the arches. The wheel spacer phenomenon has been well documented on here but I found vertical side walls to nice tyres makes the biggest difference.
Let us know what you do and the results pls.
J
So, I prefer the way the Tuscan drives. They both turn in very well and give good feed back but strangely I will push on more in the Tuscan than the Sag despite the Sag having better visibility and being lighter on the steering.
Personally I would stick with MK1 early set up as is, if you want to make it drive like a euro box try increasing the caster by swapping the top ball joint spacers to be in front. You will need to set camber and tracking again but this is cheaper than uprights and arms, you may not like it but it will dull it down. I have tried this and have swapped back as I like the sharp turn in.
There are others who know more about geo than me and I am sure they contribute but Sag pick up points are different so parts are not interchangeable unless you want to weld lugs, drill holes and have wheels poking out of the arches. The wheel spacer phenomenon has been well documented on here but I found vertical side walls to nice tyres makes the biggest difference.
Let us know what you do and the results pls.
J
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