V8 Vantage brakes sticking
Discussion
I apologise in advance for what is probably a really stupid post and question; but then I was always told it isn't a stupid question if you don't know the answer.
I've been suffering from the "brakes stuck on" when my Vantage was left for a while and, from searching on PH, I realised it was because the roads are filthy and I was washing it before I put it away, so the brakes were sticking to the rusted discs (service brakes I think - I'd already thought of the hand brake and wasn't applying it). The first time it really required quite a lot of effort from the engine to free it (worrying me about the effect on the clutch in my SSII transmission) and when it did finally let go it was with quite a bang. So the next time I took it for a quick spin up and down the road after the wash and before garaging, applying the brakes several time to try to dry the pads and the discs - this was partially successful as the releasing bang was much less violent and the effort required by the car to release them was lower (I didn't actually dry the handbrake - oversight on my part but I hadn't thought it might be that close to the discs).
So the answer could be a longer, faster run after washing to really dry everything off - but here's the rub: the aforementioned filthy roads. If I thoroughly dry the discs and pads the car will need a wash when I get back before I can put the cover on. And round and round I go.
Does anyone have a way of preventing brake sticking after washing (and I use a wheel brush to clean the inside of the wheel then hose off each wheel in turn) that doesn't involve driving the car to dry the discs and pads?
I've been suffering from the "brakes stuck on" when my Vantage was left for a while and, from searching on PH, I realised it was because the roads are filthy and I was washing it before I put it away, so the brakes were sticking to the rusted discs (service brakes I think - I'd already thought of the hand brake and wasn't applying it). The first time it really required quite a lot of effort from the engine to free it (worrying me about the effect on the clutch in my SSII transmission) and when it did finally let go it was with quite a bang. So the next time I took it for a quick spin up and down the road after the wash and before garaging, applying the brakes several time to try to dry the pads and the discs - this was partially successful as the releasing bang was much less violent and the effort required by the car to release them was lower (I didn't actually dry the handbrake - oversight on my part but I hadn't thought it might be that close to the discs).
So the answer could be a longer, faster run after washing to really dry everything off - but here's the rub: the aforementioned filthy roads. If I thoroughly dry the discs and pads the car will need a wash when I get back before I can put the cover on. And round and round I go.
Does anyone have a way of preventing brake sticking after washing (and I use a wheel brush to clean the inside of the wheel then hose off each wheel in turn) that doesn't involve driving the car to dry the discs and pads?

I always drive for a good 3 or 4 miles after washing, (I think it also advises this in the owners manual) and always leave the handbrake off and in gear when parked in the garage.
The only other way around it is to 'bag' the wheels when washing, then dry clean the wheels with some of that waterless car wash spray instead, my car suffers very little brake dust since I changed to Porterfield pads so I often just give the wheels a wipe down with a cloth and the waterless car wash spray in the garage if they aren't too dirty.
The only other way around it is to 'bag' the wheels when washing, then dry clean the wheels with some of that waterless car wash spray instead, my car suffers very little brake dust since I changed to Porterfield pads so I often just give the wheels a wipe down with a cloth and the waterless car wash spray in the garage if they aren't too dirty.
Edited by Manx V8V on Wednesday 15th January 16:47
I always use this.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-drying/p...
after a wash it means no driving but the brakes are dry.
Also, should note that it is amazing around things like chrome strips and the door handles.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-drying/p...
after a wash it means no driving but the brakes are dry.
Also, should note that it is amazing around things like chrome strips and the door handles.
Sometimes, my brakes stick a little when I am driving out of the garage, with a bit a of a thump as they unbind, and it has nothing to do with washing, and I do not apply the handbrake. I feel it is more to do with a bit of vigorous braking on the last few corners while on my way home, and parking up with hot brakes that have not cooled sufficiently.
Maybe a post-wash car drive is the smart move, but should include limited use of the brakes to help avoid what I experience. Not an expert opinion, just a theory.
Maybe a post-wash car drive is the smart move, but should include limited use of the brakes to help avoid what I experience. Not an expert opinion, just a theory.
ilikeAstons said:
I always use this.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-drying/p...
after a wash it means no driving but the brakes are dry.
Also, should note that it is amazing around things like chrome strips and the door handles.
Interesting. Don't you just end up chasing droplets around the car every time the blower disturbs some more?https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-drying/p...
after a wash it means no driving but the brakes are dry.
Also, should note that it is amazing around things like chrome strips and the door handles.
Just thought I'd update this thread. Firstly, I hadn't read in the manual that I should drive the car a short distance after washing, so thanks to ManxV8V for pointing this out. If in doubt, RTFM 
I've modified my washing routine so I now wash and rinse the wheels and, while I'm at it, take the worst of the cr*p off the sills, take the car out for a 4 mile spin with a bit of 60mph and some braking, then back, cover the wheels with sheets of plastic I happened to find in the back of the garage (again, more kudos to ManxV8V
), wash the rest of the car, dry it and put it away. Result? - just the tiniest clonk as the brake pads released when I next took it out. If there's a little dirt on the wheels when I get back from drying the brakes this can be wiped off without using a hose to rinse, but the roads round by me are still so filthy that the bodywork would get dirty during any brake drying run; hence the 2-stage process
It's a bit more of a pain and the neighbour must think I've lost it when he sees me bagging the wheels before hosing then washing the car.
I also researched this question elsewhere saw a recommendation for this stuff:
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/bilt-hamber-atom-ma...
I was amazed to see that it was deemed to be OK on brake discs, so it clearly contains no oil. The guy making the recommendation was more interested in stopping hub rusting rather than brake sticking, but he said it also did this. Also, a quick internet search showed the guys on "Detailing World" seem to love it for preventing brake rusting.....hmmmm..."Detailing World"..... let's not go there.
I'm not sure I could get to spray both sides of the discs after washing with a hand mister, but it's an interesting thought and may be worth a few £££'s and overcoming my resistance to spraying anything on brakes to buy a trial bottle. Perhaps also one of those pressurised garden sprayers with a lance?
typo corrected

I've modified my washing routine so I now wash and rinse the wheels and, while I'm at it, take the worst of the cr*p off the sills, take the car out for a 4 mile spin with a bit of 60mph and some braking, then back, cover the wheels with sheets of plastic I happened to find in the back of the garage (again, more kudos to ManxV8V
), wash the rest of the car, dry it and put it away. Result? - just the tiniest clonk as the brake pads released when I next took it out. If there's a little dirt on the wheels when I get back from drying the brakes this can be wiped off without using a hose to rinse, but the roads round by me are still so filthy that the bodywork would get dirty during any brake drying run; hence the 2-stage processIt's a bit more of a pain and the neighbour must think I've lost it when he sees me bagging the wheels before hosing then washing the car.
I also researched this question elsewhere saw a recommendation for this stuff:
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/bilt-hamber-atom-ma...
I was amazed to see that it was deemed to be OK on brake discs, so it clearly contains no oil. The guy making the recommendation was more interested in stopping hub rusting rather than brake sticking, but he said it also did this. Also, a quick internet search showed the guys on "Detailing World" seem to love it for preventing brake rusting.....hmmmm..."Detailing World"..... let's not go there.

I'm not sure I could get to spray both sides of the discs after washing with a hand mister, but it's an interesting thought and may be worth a few £££'s and overcoming my resistance to spraying anything on brakes to buy a trial bottle. Perhaps also one of those pressurised garden sprayers with a lance?
typo corrected
Edited by LTP on Thursday 30th January 12:25
LTP said:
I also researched this question elsewhere saw a recommendation for this stuff:
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/bilt-hamber-atom-ma...
Oh, you needn´t thank me at all. Always happy to take my time and help you out.https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/bilt-hamber-atom-ma...
Emilio Largo said:
Oh, you needn´t thank me at all. Always happy to take my time and help you out.
Happy to thank you but I could not find the post or thread where you provided this, despite having looked on PH and AMOC, So apologies for that. But I did want to share your good information.Difficult to thank someone if you don't know who they are and can't remember or find where you were helped
Edited by LTP on Tuesday 28th January 20:42
Apologies for necro'ing this thread, but I thought I'd confirm to those who responsed that using the following suggested process fixes the problem:
Also, having chased the pieces of plastic sheeting I used up the road when the wind caught them, I decided to invest in a set of these:
https://www.stormcarcovers.co.uk/products/voyager-...
I contacted the company and they said that their 19" & 20" covers would fit my Vantage's 285/35/19 R and 245/40/19 F wheels and tyres. Which I can confirm that they do. Dead easy to hook over the tyre and pull down, with the elastic holding everything snug and no straps to try to do up around the back of the wheel (good luck with that with a Vantage). £10 per wheel and they come in a set of 4 in a storage bag.
Disclaimer - I have no connection with Storm Car Covers - just happy with their product.
- Wash and rinse wheels and sills (this gets the worst of the dirt off as well)
- Go for a 5 mile drive, applying brakes (and handbrake on the move) to dry everything out
- Park up and bag the wheels
- Wash the rest of the car
- Dry and put away.
Also, having chased the pieces of plastic sheeting I used up the road when the wind caught them, I decided to invest in a set of these:
https://www.stormcarcovers.co.uk/products/voyager-...
I contacted the company and they said that their 19" & 20" covers would fit my Vantage's 285/35/19 R and 245/40/19 F wheels and tyres. Which I can confirm that they do. Dead easy to hook over the tyre and pull down, with the elastic holding everything snug and no straps to try to do up around the back of the wheel (good luck with that with a Vantage). £10 per wheel and they come in a set of 4 in a storage bag.
Disclaimer - I have no connection with Storm Car Covers - just happy with their product.
Edited by LTP on Wednesday 25th March 16:31
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