4.7 V8V clutch change
4.7 V8V clutch change
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JonnyCJ

Original Poster:

1,309 posts

84 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
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Re-reading Clive Chedzey’s clutch change blog on his website, it looks like much of the work to change the clutch is potentially common with the rear subframe removal.

Therefore once I get comfortable with how to remove the rear subframe I might do the clutch as well. My car has done 31,000 miles so it will be due at some point in the next 10,000 miles or so.

I’ll obviously go twin plate, however, question is, does the early 4.7 Vantage have a lightweight flywheel as standard or do I need flywheel and twin plate clutch ? My car is a manual.

Thanks

Jonny

Dewi 2

1,931 posts

95 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
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According to the AML launch announcement of the 4.7, the flywheel is lighter than in the 4.3.

BR replaced the clutch in my 4.7 with a twin plate. A different lighter weight flywheel was fitted. I think some ancillary parts are involved, but know not what. Mike (BR) considers the OEM clutch is heavier than is really necessary. One of his videos is about clutches.

JonnyCJ

Original Poster:

1,309 posts

84 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
quotequote all
Thanks Dewi - reading a lot about clutches and chatter. Given the lighter weight flywheel from stock, I might consider replacing the clutch with OEM.

More reading to be done though....

Dewi 2

1,931 posts

95 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
quotequote all

When you say OEM, are you thinking single plate ?

Mine is a MY 2009 manual, which I think is the same as yours.
I so much prefer the twin plate. I became quite used to the original OEM pedal pressure and just assumed a heavy pedal, was how it had to be to cope with 420 bhp. Pedal pressure now is a delight, so much lighter and the biting point is far easier, with a much greater spread of bite. Those are the aspects which are immediately noticed by the driver.

There can be more gear chatter than before. That is something which does vary between each individual car. Do you get much chatter?
Initially after the change I had chatter at tick over, something which was not present before. However, after 1,000 miles use, it does not do that any more, so I have no concerns.





Edited by Dewi 2 on Thursday 23 January 19:29

JonnyCJ

Original Poster:

1,309 posts

84 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
quotequote all
No chatter at all at the mo and my clutch isn’t noticeably heavy. My car is a 2009 manual.

I’m thinking that the heaviness being experienced by others is due to the clutch being worn.

One of Bamford Mike’s clutch threads says that there’s nothing wrong with staying stock if you don’t track the car or go racing around all over the place. Apparently a new OEM clutch feels very light compared to a worn one.

bogie

17,092 posts

302 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
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I can confirm the later factory clutch is very light, just like a "regular" car. The real gain on the dual plate is longevity. If you intend to keep the car for tens of thousands of miles no doubt worth spending £500 more for the twin plate

Dewi 2

1,931 posts

95 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
quotequote all

bogie said:
I can confirm the later factory clutch is very light, just like a "regular" car. The real gain on the dual plate is longevity. If you intend to keep the car for tens of thousands of miles no doubt worth spending £500 more for the twin plate

Which era are you referring to bogie, when you say later factory clutch ?

Jonny may be right about the heaviness being due to the clutch being worn.
My 4.7 had a heavy clutch pedal at purchase (8,000 miles) and was the same 6 years later at failure time (17,000 miles).
Perhaps indicates the previous owners mistreated the clutch, not me. smile
A keeper, so I might now achieve a better mileage.

The cars which do not exhibit low revs gear chatter with a single plate, are more likely not to have gear chatter with a twin plate.



Edited by Dewi 2 on Thursday 23 January 21:36

bogie

17,092 posts

302 months

Thursday 23rd January 2020
quotequote all
Probably the OE clutch dealers have been fitting for last 10 years. It was just the original 2005/6 clutch that was super heavy, i remember thinking that when I got my first 2006 Vantage. Some low mileage cars may have gone 6 to 8 years or so before having a new clutch. My first one lasted over 70k miles. I had the revised OE clutch fitted at a dealer and it was really light, traded the car in the following year, hence not wanting to spend the money on the upgrade twin plate which was over a grand more at the time.

My current 2012 Roadster is on its 2nd OE clutch after 60k miles, and its really light. If it goes again in my ownership will have a twin plate fitted.

vernierMike

397 posts

124 months

Friday 24th January 2020
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I do like my twinplate feel, and the thought of longevity. Would it make a difference to resale? Not a question for me, frankly! Worth £500 in my book.

But I was told the zinging and slight buzzing (rest assured it is occasional and mostly subtle!) was due to vibration of the carbon prop shaft/clutch and not gear chatter as such? Do to unmatched mass changing the resonant frequency of the assembly etc. Be interested to know?

V8V Pete

2,536 posts

156 months

Friday 24th January 2020
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JonnyCJ said:
I’ll obviously go twin plate, however, question is, does the early 4.7 Vantage have a lightweight flywheel as standard or do I need flywheel and twin plate clutch ? My car is a manual.
You can't change to a twin plate clutch without getting a new flywheel as the clutch is a different diameter so won't mate with the old flywheel. Also, some of the "issues" with the OEM setup are due to the flywheel rather than the clutch so would be a false economy. My BR twin plate and lightweight flywheel with remapped throttle makes a huge difference to the interaction with the manual car. Doesn't matter if you're thrashing the life out of it or cruising around, it's just better.