Oxford heated grips - help!
Discussion
Evening, just looking for some help regarding my Oxford heated grips.
I've got a Yamaha YBR 125, fitted the grips the other week, fine when first plugged in to battery to test, then fitted to bars and the right hand one stopped working, left hand was nice and warm.
Thought there was a problem so returned to shop and they gave us a new pair.
Connected them to battery tonight and both working fine, fitted both to bars and again the right hand one isnt working when fitted. Have taken it off the throttle and now it works again, and ideas why is doesn't want to work once actually fitted to the bike??!
I've got a Yamaha YBR 125, fitted the grips the other week, fine when first plugged in to battery to test, then fitted to bars and the right hand one stopped working, left hand was nice and warm.
Thought there was a problem so returned to shop and they gave us a new pair.
Connected them to battery tonight and both working fine, fitted both to bars and again the right hand one isnt working when fitted. Have taken it off the throttle and now it works again, and ideas why is doesn't want to work once actually fitted to the bike??!
Edited by han_parry on Sunday 26th January 20:32
I had no end of issues when I used oxford heated grips many years ago.
I now fit symtec grip heaters ( https://www.windingroads.co.uk/symtec-heat-demon/h... ) - that website is safe, I;ve ordered form there twice (one for each bike).
You'll want to wire them in directly to the battery via a relay (the relay will take a power feed to it from e.g. the rear brake light power feed, energising the relay and making the grips connect to the battery. When you turn off the ignition, there'l be no power to the grips and no danger of accidentally draining the battery). You'll also want to fit replacement grips over the top (e.g. renthal grips). You'll need to smooth down any ridges on the thottle twistgrip tube. Note there are two distinct heatiing pads - one for the clutch side, one for the throttle side.
I now fit symtec grip heaters ( https://www.windingroads.co.uk/symtec-heat-demon/h... ) - that website is safe, I;ve ordered form there twice (one for each bike).
You'll want to wire them in directly to the battery via a relay (the relay will take a power feed to it from e.g. the rear brake light power feed, energising the relay and making the grips connect to the battery. When you turn off the ignition, there'l be no power to the grips and no danger of accidentally draining the battery). You'll also want to fit replacement grips over the top (e.g. renthal grips). You'll need to smooth down any ridges on the thottle twistgrip tube. Note there are two distinct heatiing pads - one for the clutch side, one for the throttle side.
Ignoring the fact you've done this previously. Just restating the facts to think clearly;
You had a new set of grips.
You tested them and confirmed they were working fully.
You fitted them and now one side doesn't work.
Sensible guess would be that you broke a cable whilst fitting.
Check the resistance in both grips at the control box using a multi meter. If you hit infinite resistance on one side you've probably broken a wire, you can buy the grips separately if this is the case.
Failing that, with the grips on, stick the same multimeter and measure the voltage at each side of the control box, for each grip. If they're not the same, it's probably the box.
That's where I would start anyway.
You had a new set of grips.
You tested them and confirmed they were working fully.
You fitted them and now one side doesn't work.
Sensible guess would be that you broke a cable whilst fitting.
Check the resistance in both grips at the control box using a multi meter. If you hit infinite resistance on one side you've probably broken a wire, you can buy the grips separately if this is the case.
Failing that, with the grips on, stick the same multimeter and measure the voltage at each side of the control box, for each grip. If they're not the same, it's probably the box.
That's where I would start anyway.
Prof Prolapse said:
Ignoring the fact you've done this previously. Just restating the facts to think clearly;
You had a new set of grips.
You tested them and confirmed they were working fully.
You fitted them and now one side doesn't work.
Sensible guess would be that you broke a cable whilst fitting.
Check the resistance in both grips at the control box using a multi meter. If you hit infinite resistance on one side you've probably broken a wire, you can buy the grips separately if this is the case.
Failing that, with the grips on, stick the same multimeter and measure the voltage at each side of the control box, for each grip. If they're not the same, it's probably the box.
That's where I would start anyway.
You had a new set of grips. You had a new set of grips.
You tested them and confirmed they were working fully.
You fitted them and now one side doesn't work.
Sensible guess would be that you broke a cable whilst fitting.
Check the resistance in both grips at the control box using a multi meter. If you hit infinite resistance on one side you've probably broken a wire, you can buy the grips separately if this is the case.
Failing that, with the grips on, stick the same multimeter and measure the voltage at each side of the control box, for each grip. If they're not the same, it's probably the box.
That's where I would start anyway.
You tested them and confirmed they were working fully.
You fitted them and now one side doesn't work.
You missed out the important bit, which is: You removed the grips and tested them and they work fine when not on the bike
That last bit would tend to mean that it is not a broken cable (although it could be damaged and making intermittent contact, i guess)
boyse7en said:
You missed out the important bit, which is: You removed the grips and tested them and they work fine when not on the bike
That last bit would tend to mean that it is not a broken cable (although it could be damaged and making intermittent contact, i guess)
I did miss the important bit sorry!That last bit would tend to mean that it is not a broken cable (although it could be damaged and making intermittent contact, i guess)
Still though... My point about testing with a multimeter remains I think...
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