Topping up wax without full decontamination/stripping
Discussion
I have never ironed out my understanding of best paste-wax topping up practices. I thought it was always best to strip completely down and re-wax, rather than top up if needed. Could the community shed some light ?
This weekend I did a more or less full decontamination of a new car, including prepping paint surface using Bilt Hamber Cleanser fluid and then applying one layer of Double Speed Wax. Only thing I didn’t do was tar removal, this was as I understand that Cleanser Fluid is able to dissolve spots.
I chose the DSW as I need something very durable and resilient. When I first started detailing, I was happy to use less durable items such as black fire show waxes, or even AG ultra high definition wax purely for the shine factor. More recently, due to being time poor, I was using liquid waxes (mainly AG aquawax). These are ok, but don’t bead/last for very long. Not much relative protection either, as I have found the paint keeps in much better shape using pastes. I am not a fan of silica or other ceramic based coatings.
As I understand it, BH DSW is very durable. So I can save time by not needing to reapply very frequently.
As the car has been prepared properly, am I ok to top up with some more BSW in say 1 or 2 months? This would be post traffic film removing, snow foaming and a B2W.
Additionally, would it make sense to top up with some liquid waxes between this period? – I heard Sonax BSD works well on top of DSW .. . Any other suggestions (I also have some Autotfinesse radiance knocking about)?
This weekend I did a more or less full decontamination of a new car, including prepping paint surface using Bilt Hamber Cleanser fluid and then applying one layer of Double Speed Wax. Only thing I didn’t do was tar removal, this was as I understand that Cleanser Fluid is able to dissolve spots.
I chose the DSW as I need something very durable and resilient. When I first started detailing, I was happy to use less durable items such as black fire show waxes, or even AG ultra high definition wax purely for the shine factor. More recently, due to being time poor, I was using liquid waxes (mainly AG aquawax). These are ok, but don’t bead/last for very long. Not much relative protection either, as I have found the paint keeps in much better shape using pastes. I am not a fan of silica or other ceramic based coatings.
As I understand it, BH DSW is very durable. So I can save time by not needing to reapply very frequently.
As the car has been prepared properly, am I ok to top up with some more BSW in say 1 or 2 months? This would be post traffic film removing, snow foaming and a B2W.
Additionally, would it make sense to top up with some liquid waxes between this period? – I heard Sonax BSD works well on top of DSW .. . Any other suggestions (I also have some Autotfinesse radiance knocking about)?
I've been using this to keep the winter weather off the car (after it being prepped first) seems to work really well and it's very easy to use if in the snow foam lance, easy to dry after with a Klin cloth
https://www.carboncollective.com/product/hybrid-co...
https://www.carboncollective.com/product/hybrid-co...
As above already mentioned, DSW is really good wax, a goof snow foam and pure shampoo will work great, don't use shampoo with wax additives as it will mask the properties of the DSW. bilt hamber auto wash, and carchem super suds are really good concentrate products, and ideal if your stacking products.
Also as mentioned Wetcoat is a really good topper and super fast to apply to all exterior surface. Think its £18 per litre or bulk buy only works out to about £10. Per litre
Also as mentioned Wetcoat is a really good topper and super fast to apply to all exterior surface. Think its £18 per litre or bulk buy only works out to about £10. Per litre
Interesting, is the bilt hamber cleansing fluid recommended for a mild decontamination then? Don’t have the time or trust in myself to clay bar etc. Would a snow foam as pre wash then hosing down and applying cleanser fluid good practice? Then obviously going into a 2 bucket wash, drying vehicle down then applying some kind of wax/sealant? Good shout? I’m no detailer by any means, I usually just snow foam, 2 bucket then use a quick detailer/spray wax. As mentioned protection and beading doesn’t last long, and the cars filthy again in a matter of days thus making it harder to wash next cycle.
Thanks
Thanks
Thanks all.
Really reluctant to use anything with silica in, such as (guessing wetcoat has) due to the spotting which occurs. I was using autonfinesses aqua coat for a while but gave up as no matter what I did, would get spotting.
Think will try the bsd as a top up and will reapply wax without full decontamination in around 1.5 months
Really reluctant to use anything with silica in, such as (guessing wetcoat has) due to the spotting which occurs. I was using autonfinesses aqua coat for a while but gave up as no matter what I did, would get spotting.
Think will try the bsd as a top up and will reapply wax without full decontamination in around 1.5 months
chan61922 said:
Interesting, is the bilt hamber cleansing fluid recommended for a mild decontamination then? Don’t have the time or trust in myself to clay bar etc. Would a snow foam as pre wash then hosing down and applying cleanser fluid good practice? Then obviously going into a 2 bucket wash, drying vehicle down then applying some kind of wax/sealant? Good shout? I’m no detailer by any means, I usually just snow foam, 2 bucket then use a quick detailer/spray wax. As mentioned protection and beading doesn’t last long, and the cars filthy again in a matter of days thus making it harder to wash next cycle.
Thanks
It would be better than not applying the cleanser fluid at all if you looking to apply LSP and not get a layered effect.Thanks
As the fluid is spirit based, it will remove all existing protection if any, so you will be stripping partly down to clear coat. If using spray on wax, you will create a decent surface for this to bond, but as it's not very strong/resilient anyway, I would question the point.
My post above was questioning whether it is safe to top up existing paste wax or equivalent without stripping down, in order to prevent any paintwork marring/scratches Based on the above, it looks like the answer is yes. If you have fully prepped the paint and properly applied durable LSP, you should be able to wash any contaminants off the existing wax (before it's completely gone) and just top up the wax to increase length of protection.
To get the best surface bonding, visual finish and longevity of the wax, it is better to do a full decontamination. That way you can top up the wax when required.
Just as an FYI: this time I did:
All purpose cleaner in hand pressure sprayer (citrus prewash from valet pro) for traffic film removal
Bilt hamber autofoam
Bilt hamber korossol (great stuff doesn't stink as bad as others)
Bilt hamber autofoam again
Clay bar - just used plenty of clay bar lubrication, refold frequently
Bilt hamber cleanser fluid
Bilt hamber double speed wax
Done.
I've been using Gyeon Wetcoat for years fella, and never its water spotted, it can cause issues if used in direct sunlight, if you spray, rinse and dry its great...and very slick!
Failing that any good quality Q/D will work great as a topper, Pretty sure BH also make one to partner up with the DSW.
The main reason a recommend Wetcoat is it means less contact with the paint and its so fast!... added to that its the only spray sealant that I've used that actually helps the self cleaning... Most waxed based products actually attract dust and dirt/ soiling seems to stick to them like mad.
Failing that any good quality Q/D will work great as a topper, Pretty sure BH also make one to partner up with the DSW.
The main reason a recommend Wetcoat is it means less contact with the paint and its so fast!... added to that its the only spray sealant that I've used that actually helps the self cleaning... Most waxed based products actually attract dust and dirt/ soiling seems to stick to them like mad.
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