Drop link supplier
Discussion
JonnyCJ, i'm going to do the same this summer, but i've decided i'm not going to remove the subframe, but to paint it in situ.
I'll remove the rear wheel arches to get better access and while i'm at it i'll remove the anti roll bar as that has some corrosion now and replace the drop links.
The driveshafts have a little too but i'm not going to remove them.
I'll remove the rear wheel arches to get better access and while i'm at it i'll remove the anti roll bar as that has some corrosion now and replace the drop links.
The driveshafts have a little too but i'm not going to remove them.
Lift the front or the rear of the car both sides depending on which drop links you are replacing to eliminate stress across the roll bar.
Undo the nuts holding the links to the suspension arm and bar, noting the orientation of the nuts and washers.
Remove links. Refitting is the reverse. No requirement to preload as the links are balljoint ended.
You only need to preload bushes.
8Tech.
Undo the nuts holding the links to the suspension arm and bar, noting the orientation of the nuts and washers.
Remove links. Refitting is the reverse. No requirement to preload as the links are balljoint ended.
You only need to preload bushes.
8Tech.
8Tech said:
Lift the front or the rear of the car both sides depending on which drop links you are replacing to eliminate stress across the roll bar.
Undo the nuts holding the links to the suspension arm and bar, noting the orientation of the nuts and washers.
Remove links. Refitting is the reverse. No requirement to preload as the links are balljoint ended.
You only need to preload bushes.
8Tech.
In case there is anyone else looking to change out the links it is unfortunately not as simple as outlined above. To provide access/room to remove the link, it looks like the lower strut needs to be removed so that you can angle the strut away from the link to provide enough space to pull out and refit the link. Unfortunately it will also most likely require me to move the brakes so that I can slide the lower strut back in afterwards. Undo the nuts holding the links to the suspension arm and bar, noting the orientation of the nuts and washers.
Remove links. Refitting is the reverse. No requirement to preload as the links are balljoint ended.
You only need to preload bushes.
8Tech.
All of this being said I have the nitron strut/coilovers fitted so perhaps the OEM are thinner and thus provide enough room without removal of the bottom of the strut.
Here is a picture of the old front ARB link. I had already removed the lower bolt to the shock to provide room to pull the top bolt out of the ARB link.
Here is the new link before tightening up. Even though the workshop manual showed the washer going on the nut side for the bottom of the link, in speaking with a knowledgable AM master tech who said they all put the washers now on the inside. Pretty straightforward job. Unfortunately I still have the clunk sound, but given my car is 15 years old I was ok with replacing our the old rubber bushings and links.
Here is the new link before tightening up. Even though the workshop manual showed the washer going on the nut side for the bottom of the link, in speaking with a knowledgable AM master tech who said they all put the washers now on the inside. Pretty straightforward job. Unfortunately I still have the clunk sound, but given my car is 15 years old I was ok with replacing our the old rubber bushings and links.
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