Charging circuit?
Discussion
It was all going so well. On the back of fitting the aluminium mirror inserts, replacing the window felt and giving everything a good clean the car came out for the year.
Up to Manchester for the week, the drive up was great, if a little cold. However, Thursday evening I nipped out to get a curry and noticed the engine light stayed on for a short period. A good rev saw it turn off. Then on Friday as I approached the M6 the engine would cut if I accelerated. So I nursed it in to the service.
A call to the Nationwide and it's on the back of a truck and a rental car arranged. The last thong I did was attempt a final start. Nothing but clicking coming from under the bonnet.
I have to call the recovery company tomorrow to tell them where to drop the car off. I'm guessing what I have is a charging system that isn't charging. Poorly alternator? The questions are, do I drop it at the local electrics firm who overhaul alternatives. Should I also get the starter motor overhauled just because it's convenient.
Finally, pipes and old and those that can that are and the elephants trunk etc are all the originals. Does anyone do a full kit for less than ACT or do I bite the bullet.
This year needs to be about small bits of care and keeping driving. I'm intending to get Alex to work his chassis magic over the winter followed by engine, spray, and interior the following winters.
Up to Manchester for the week, the drive up was great, if a little cold. However, Thursday evening I nipped out to get a curry and noticed the engine light stayed on for a short period. A good rev saw it turn off. Then on Friday as I approached the M6 the engine would cut if I accelerated. So I nursed it in to the service.
A call to the Nationwide and it's on the back of a truck and a rental car arranged. The last thong I did was attempt a final start. Nothing but clicking coming from under the bonnet.
I have to call the recovery company tomorrow to tell them where to drop the car off. I'm guessing what I have is a charging system that isn't charging. Poorly alternator? The questions are, do I drop it at the local electrics firm who overhaul alternatives. Should I also get the starter motor overhauled just because it's convenient.
Finally, pipes and old and those that can that are and the elephants trunk etc are all the originals. Does anyone do a full kit for less than ACT or do I bite the bullet.
This year needs to be about small bits of care and keeping driving. I'm intending to get Alex to work his chassis magic over the winter followed by engine, spray, and interior the following winters.
From reading your post it sounds like the battery is not being charged. Did you try other electrical items - lights / heater blower etc. to see if they were working as expected or dim lights / slow blower ?
I would charge the battery and then try to start thee engine, if it starts then look at getting the alternator overhauled or exchanged .
I would charge the battery and then try to start thee engine, if it starts then look at getting the alternator overhauled or exchanged .
The first thing to suspect in all these cases is a duff battery. A silly bumber of these threads turn out to be duff battery after much changing stuff and stress.
Take yours out of the car and charge it, then take it to a good battery place or automotive spares place and ask them to test it with their battery tester.
That bit of kit will show whether you have a good or bad battery.
Once you have established the condition of the battery, put it, or a new one, back in the car, start the engine and test the voltage coming to the battery with a multimeter - it should be between 13.5 and 14.2 volts if your alternator and 100 amp fuse are fine. If it stays around 12.2-12.5 volts, then you have an issue with either the alternator or the 100 amp fuse. You can test the alternator with your multimeter bu sticking the red probe into the back of the alternator and the black one on to the engine block. Sam,e voltages as above, or if not, then you have a faulty alternator.
If alternator fine but only 12.5 volts at the battery, then you have a problem with the 100 amp fuse. It is in a case, under the car, driver's side, alongside the sump. Unbolt the fuse and take it out to check it, as it may look fine at first sight, but come out ion two pieces, as said by Phillpot above.
Multimeters cost under £20. I am an accountant, not a mechanic, and know the square root of bugger all about cars, but checking alternator, battery etc are within my pay grade, so should be within yours too.
Take yours out of the car and charge it, then take it to a good battery place or automotive spares place and ask them to test it with their battery tester.
That bit of kit will show whether you have a good or bad battery.
Once you have established the condition of the battery, put it, or a new one, back in the car, start the engine and test the voltage coming to the battery with a multimeter - it should be between 13.5 and 14.2 volts if your alternator and 100 amp fuse are fine. If it stays around 12.2-12.5 volts, then you have an issue with either the alternator or the 100 amp fuse. You can test the alternator with your multimeter bu sticking the red probe into the back of the alternator and the black one on to the engine block. Sam,e voltages as above, or if not, then you have a faulty alternator.
If alternator fine but only 12.5 volts at the battery, then you have a problem with the 100 amp fuse. It is in a case, under the car, driver's side, alongside the sump. Unbolt the fuse and take it out to check it, as it may look fine at first sight, but come out ion two pieces, as said by Phillpot above.
Multimeters cost under £20. I am an accountant, not a mechanic, and know the square root of bugger all about cars, but checking alternator, battery etc are within my pay grade, so should be within yours too.
Well, what else can you do when staying away from the general public.
Car returned home. Battery charged. Car runs and MIL stays on. I had a look for 100amp fuse and it's not on the chassis rails. Found it in a fat more c9nvenient and warm place.
And inside two hairline cracks which crumbled when I looked at them.
Of course I have more questions.
Is it ok there and what is the massive lump of metal with the + - posts. I know it's for jump starting but I would never use them, would I?
Car returned home. Battery charged. Car runs and MIL stays on. I had a look for 100amp fuse and it's not on the chassis rails. Found it in a fat more c9nvenient and warm place.
And inside two hairline cracks which crumbled when I looked at them.
Of course I have more questions.
Is it ok there and what is the massive lump of metal with the + - posts. I know it's for jump starting but I would never use them, would I?
Edited by MuffDaddy on Saturday 21st March 15:51
MuffDaddy said:
Well, what else can you do when staying away from the general public.
Car returned home. Battery charged. Car runs and MIL stays on. I had a look for 100amp fuse and it's not on the chassis rails. Found it in a fat more c9nvenient and warm place.
And inside two hairline cracks which crumbled when I looked at them.
Of course I have more questions.
Is it ok there and what is the massive lump of metal with the + - posts. I know it's for jump starting but I would never use them, would I?
Replace the fuse with a 'maxi' fuse. Much more robust than the flimsy tin things which fracture (as you have found out) due to vibration.Car returned home. Battery charged. Car runs and MIL stays on. I had a look for 100amp fuse and it's not on the chassis rails. Found it in a fat more c9nvenient and warm place.
And inside two hairline cracks which crumbled when I looked at them.
Of course I have more questions.
Is it ok there and what is the massive lump of metal with the + - posts. I know it's for jump starting but I would never use them, would I?
Edited by MuffDaddy on Saturday 21st March 15:51
When you tidy those cables again please cut the cable tie right back flush with the ratchet part. Left as they are in your picture they do untold damage to mechanics.
Those posts do look like jump start terminals. Will you need them? Yes, if you remove them.
Steve
Steve_D said:
When you tidy those cables again please cut the cable tie right back flush with the ratchet part. Left as they are in your picture they do untold damage to mechanics.
my pet hate too, Steve! Easy enough to shave them flush with a blade, save your own skin as well as your mech's, and they'll look so much neater.
TwinKam said:
Steve_D said:
When you tidy those cables again please cut the cable tie right back flush with the ratchet part. Left as they are in your picture they do untold damage to mechanics.
my pet hate too, Steve! Easy enough to shave them flush with a blade, save your own skin as well as your mech's, and they'll look so much neater.
Steve
I'm not sure it's possible to be sacked from BT these days!
100amp fuses arrived today. Fitted. Started. Running like a dream and no MIL light.
I've also bought a new housing and will do the job properly when it arrives.
I'll take care of the battery cables when it goes in for a chassis refurb hopefully at the end of the year.
100amp fuses arrived today. Fitted. Started. Running like a dream and no MIL light.
I've also bought a new housing and will do the job properly when it arrives.
I'll take care of the battery cables when it goes in for a chassis refurb hopefully at the end of the year.
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