Difficult to engage all gears

[meeko]

Suddenly it's become difficult to engage all gears. I need to almost force it into first, and when moving it still engages all gears, but far less easily than before. Also have trouble entering 5th and then reverse from a stand still (to avoid the crunch).

Any thoughts? Gearbox or maybe just linkage? It's a 97 400 wih the T5 box.

Cheers, Meeko.

[puffsorted]

Check how much clutch fluid you have. Well known for leaking from either the master or slave cylinders.

[M@H]

puffsorted said:

Check how much clutch fluid you have. Well known for leaking from either the master or slave cylinders.

Ditto, sounds just like that

[GreenV8S]

Sounds like your clutch isn't releaseing fully, possible hydraulic problem. Check the fluid level and look for leaking fluid under the car and in the driver's footwell, for starters.

[meeko]

Thanks for the tips guys. What's the easiest way to check the clutch fluid level? Do I have to remove the plastic plate on the driver's side wing?

[smedlen]

Yes

[meeko]

It seems like the clutch fluid level is OK. How would I check the gear linkage? Are there any bushes etc that are prone to causing problems that I could check?

It's very strange. This morning I couldn't engage any gear, and eventually forced it into 2nd. Once moving I could engage all gears albeit a little clunky. After a few miles it was back to normal. Once rested it was sticking again.

Weird!

[peterc]

One possible thing that might fit your symptoms is low oil level in the gearbox itself.

[GreenV8S]

I would suspect the clutch master cylinder in that case, not releasing the clutch properly. This doesn't always cause an external leak and fluid loss.

[Mutant Rat]

As others have already said, clutch actuation problems would be favourite. Doesn't necessarily have to lose significant amounts of fluid to be a problem - sometimes the seals on the master cylinder can draw a little air past themselves, whilst remaining pretty much fluid tight.

I'd check for the slightest sign of weeping or leakage on the slave and master cylinders, and the connecting hose, as a next step (but don't necessarily rule out the master cylinder, even if you don't find any leaks).

Could be a linkage or low oil problem. Oil check is obvious and easy, but if it's gone far enough to cause serious selection problems, you're probably looking at a very poorly gearbox, I'm afraid.

Linkage: try repeatedly selecting all gears with the engine switched off. If the gearlever is moving the selector rods in the correct alignment, it should select gears fairly cleanly without the engine running, regardless of whether the clutch is disengaging(you may get a bit of obstruction selecting a gear if the cogs aren't lining up - you have to use your judgement - selecting a different gear will usually move the cogs sufficiently to select the obstructive gear at the next try).

Difficult with an intermittent problem, but if it consistently refuses to select a gear again, try the following as a next step:

1) With the engine off, select first gear. If it won't select, you have a fundamental gearbox or linkage problem.

2) Depress the clutch and keep it down (disengaged), whilst you start the engine. Do this on a level surface with nothing in front of you, and the handbrake off.

If you get a lurch forward as the starter motor tries to turn, then the clutch is not releasing (clutch plate stuck, diaphragm spring weak or over centre, or hydraulic problem).

If the engine fires, but the car tries to creep forward, then the clutch is dragging (only partly releasing) - hydraulic problem, or weak diapragm spring.

If the emgine fires and runs, without any sign of clutch drag, but wont change gear with the engine running, it's looking like an internal gearbox issue.

Unfortunately, my Griffith started exhibiting exactly the same symptoms just after I'd purchased it and it turned out to be the diaphragm spring going over centre - replacement clutch (£££) - but I'd guess at a master cylinder problem as your most likely culprit.

Change the master cylinder if you even suspect it is a problem, especially if you have no record of it having been changed in the recent past. Due to engine bay temperatures, the master cylinder seals don't tend to last long and the master cylinder isn't particularly expensive. For this reason, it's also probably as well to replace the M/cylinder at the same time as the clutch plate, if it turns out to be a clutch fault - at least you'll have the peace of mind of a completely 'refreshed' clutch assembly.