Indicator issues and strange noise when accelerating
Discussion
Hello all - you might remember me from my fuel issue ridden 1983 280i auto.
Good news is the fuel issues seem largely fixed with a new pretty much everything, some warm up rewiring and a new coil.
However - I've been taking it for a series of short confidence restoring runs (before the lockdown) and have found two issues.
1. The indicators have been constantly playing up. First one would stop, I would unplug and replug the wires under the steering wheel to fix it, then the other would go (rinse and repeat). The hazard light was also playing up (sometimes just doing one or the other or neither indicator - but cleaning the switch connections sorted that.
Now they have both gone completely dead, and no end of fiddling seems to have worked. Anyone know what the problem might be?
2. Accelerating sharply from stationary in first gear when the engine was cold (out of a corner up a hill) would produce a grindy/squealy noise from somewhere in the engine bay. It would persist until I stopped accelerating. It sounded a bit like my PAS belt did when it used to slip, but a bit more mechanical and nasty. Seemed to stop after it warmed up, but it could be that I was driving more smoothly.
Any thoughts from you wizards, now we are all cooped up?
Good news is the fuel issues seem largely fixed with a new pretty much everything, some warm up rewiring and a new coil.
However - I've been taking it for a series of short confidence restoring runs (before the lockdown) and have found two issues.
1. The indicators have been constantly playing up. First one would stop, I would unplug and replug the wires under the steering wheel to fix it, then the other would go (rinse and repeat). The hazard light was also playing up (sometimes just doing one or the other or neither indicator - but cleaning the switch connections sorted that.
Now they have both gone completely dead, and no end of fiddling seems to have worked. Anyone know what the problem might be?
2. Accelerating sharply from stationary in first gear when the engine was cold (out of a corner up a hill) would produce a grindy/squealy noise from somewhere in the engine bay. It would persist until I stopped accelerating. It sounded a bit like my PAS belt did when it used to slip, but a bit more mechanical and nasty. Seemed to stop after it warmed up, but it could be that I was driving more smoothly.
Any thoughts from you wizards, now we are all cooped up?
Agreed, check the flasher relay. Im not sure if the 82 is the same, but my 80 uses the same relay for both hazard and indicators. Mine is sticky so sometimes doesn't work if they haven't been used in a while. Interestingly, you might also find your interior lights dont work, as they are powered through that relay too. Its all a bit typically TVR.
Hey all thanks for the help!
Re the noise - pump bearing sounds plausible. Is there any way for me to test it before I replace the pump? (Not that they are outrageously expensive)
Re the indicators. I had a little go with the relays. They are interconnected, but the hazards and the interior lights are still working, which is confusing. I'm going in for round two later this week.
Re the noise - pump bearing sounds plausible. Is there any way for me to test it before I replace the pump? (Not that they are outrageously expensive)
Re the indicators. I had a little go with the relays. They are interconnected, but the hazards and the interior lights are still working, which is confusing. I'm going in for round two later this week.
Good idea, i'll have a look at both the hazard switch and the flasher this PM. I mean I was told TVR electrics are dodgy, but my car has something else wrong with it pretty much every time I drive.
Just found out my electric wingmirrors will turn themselves on and try and adjust, draining the battery - so i've got to disconnect those bad boys now.
Re the water pump - I assume this will be an adequate replacement?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CAPRI-Mk3-2-8-Wate...
Just found out my electric wingmirrors will turn themselves on and try and adjust, draining the battery - so i've got to disconnect those bad boys now.
Re the water pump - I assume this will be an adequate replacement?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CAPRI-Mk3-2-8-Wate...
IamWedgend said:
Fuses replaced, issue not fixed alas.
Think my hazards switch might be f
ked. Having real trouble sourcing one. Anyone know where I could track one down?
Best,
J
What a coincidenceThink my hazards switch might be f
ked. Having real trouble sourcing one. Anyone know where I could track one down?Best,
J
Thought to myself this morning that it may be of some help to put together a circuit for hazards utilising a failed hazard switch that has a good plastic body and rocker
Read something 1,2 or 3 years ago that these switches were getting more difficult to find
Penelope Stopit said:
Thought to myself this morning that it may be of some help to put together a circuit for hazards utilising a failed hazard switch that has a good plastic body and rocker
Interesting! If you do get around to building one, please do let me know and i'll see if I can repeat your feat.In the past, considered the possibilities of fitting a small momentary on push button inside the switch, the switch will take a very small amount of pressure to operate it, if the plastic of the switch body and rocker are good the modification will last for many operations
The inside of the switch body would need to be almost completely filled with epoxy or similar, a hole would need to be melted through the terminal end (drilling may work but may break the body) of the switch body and a thin tube pushed through it to a length that is equal to the depth of the area to be filled
Once the epoxy has hardened, would be left with a solid flat surface at the front of the switch body with a hole through which the push button cables can be routed from font to out of the rear
The push button can then be bonded to the flat epoxied surface with a mastic sealant and if ever failing in the future can be easily removed and replaced
The end result of the modification would be a push button fitted behind the front rocker of the switch and it would be in or as good as in contact with the rocker and its two cables would be exiting the rear of the switch
A gentle touch of the hazard switch rocker would make the switches contacts
Relays would be used to complete the required switching
If you don't understand any of the above, ask
Button below
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9190
The inside of the switch body would need to be almost completely filled with epoxy or similar, a hole would need to be melted through the terminal end (drilling may work but may break the body) of the switch body and a thin tube pushed through it to a length that is equal to the depth of the area to be filled
Once the epoxy has hardened, would be left with a solid flat surface at the front of the switch body with a hole through which the push button cables can be routed from font to out of the rear
The push button can then be bonded to the flat epoxied surface with a mastic sealant and if ever failing in the future can be easily removed and replaced
The end result of the modification would be a push button fitted behind the front rocker of the switch and it would be in or as good as in contact with the rocker and its two cables would be exiting the rear of the switch
A gentle touch of the hazard switch rocker would make the switches contacts
Relays would be used to complete the required switching
If you don't understand any of the above, ask
Button below
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9190
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 8th April 12:50
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