Fuse box location
Fuse box location
Author
Discussion

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Monday 6th April 2020
quotequote all
My fuse box just seems to sort of hang in place with one stud coming through from the footwell as in the photo below, the second photo shows the top, if I push it back it moves maybe 5 inch before it touches the bulkhead but I do not see any way of locating it there , any chance of a description or photo of how it should be ??


Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Monday 6th April 2020
quotequote all
On my car at the top there is a flat section on the fuse box surround panel that gets pushed up behind the heater box first and then it’s pushed over the lower fixing.
Poor idea but that’s what it’s like on mine.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

279 months

Monday 6th April 2020
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For further clarification your box is currently vertical but it needs to be horizontal with that fixing bolt at the bottom.
As was said remove it from that fixing, poke it up behind the lip and put the bottom back on the fixing.

Steve

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Monday 6th April 2020
quotequote all
Sorry about the photos,, no idea why but they all rotate 90 deg.
If I push the top back it semi locates Behrind the heater box but it doesn’t hold and just flops forward again, so I will try as suggested and remove the bottom bolt first, just needed to check that this is really how it should be

Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Tuesday 7th April 2020
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When I had my fuse box out I chose to re drill that bottom fixing hole and use a riv nut instead to get the fit slightly better.
The original bolt should be just bonded in through the wheel arch and is accessible.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

130 months

Tuesday 7th April 2020
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With all the present problems throughout the world, perhaps now is a good time to relocate the fuse-box, nice way of passing a few days going steady at it

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Tuesday 7th April 2020
quotequote all
I will try and locate it properly first and see how it looks, it must be better than what I have now as it leans forward so much that it rests on the ballers box and you cannot see any fuses without removing the battery, but relocating the whole thing behind the seat was something I was considering for next year, so maybe now, we will see

Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Wednesday 8th April 2020
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I looked into moving it last year and found that I would have had to extend the entire loom to do so neatly.
Some others have reported not having to extend the loom but sadly I wasn’t one of them!

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Monday 13th April 2020
quotequote all
So this is how my fuse box hangs

This is how it looks if I force it back, there’s nothing to locate behind the heater matrix at the top

And this is how it looks from the back
Am I missing something, or is this not standard ??
A quick lol at the length shows I have no chance of moving to behind the seat, that’s with the loom coming from the dash to the footwell on the left, if I open up the dash can I bring the cables down into the footwell area on the right hand side instead ??

Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Monday 13th April 2020
quotequote all
Looks standard to me, at least in that last photo it does, the other 2 are deceiving my eyes.
Maybe you don’t have the gap I have at the back of the heater box area to push it up.
In theory you can run the wires wherever you want if they can be kept out of way of damage etc.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

130 months

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Monday 13th April 2020
quotequote all
I do have space behind the heater but the box is too low, if you look at the top of pic 2 you will see that there is a gap between the two on the right and they just touch on the left, so no support.

On further investigation I see that there is a cutout at the front of the footwell approx the size of the fuseboard, unfortunately approx means the fuseboard is 10mm wider than the space available

So a 20mm spacer has been fitted on the bottom bolt to space it out

I know some of the TVR engineering is a bit dodgy, but can this really be original

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Monday 13th April 2020
quotequote all
Please note that both the above photos have rotated 90 deg anti-clockwise

cp81

325 posts

154 months

Monday 13th April 2020
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Paul is your battery still in footwell?

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Monday 13th April 2020
quotequote all
Normally yes, obviously it’s out at the moment while I look around.
One of the problems is that because the fuse box tilts forward I cannot see the fuses when the battery is in place

Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Tuesday 14th April 2020
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I’m just wondering where your heater pipes are and that’s why the matrix box sits lower?
Normally they are as below.


Battery relocation could be an option as you would then be able to drop the fuse box down and have room for the ecu too, would be nice and easy to access then.
Something I’ve considered as it would neaten that area, it’s just the running of the battery cables is a bit awkward.

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Wednesday 15th April 2020
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I have this extra relay for the cooling fans, I heard from a garage after I bought it that there had been a problem with the fans running slow, so I guess they added that relay because of a bad contact within the fuseboard somewhere, but I would like to tidy the wiring up a bit, below is what I have at the moment

The small red is a live from ignition going to the coil.
The brown goes to the otter switch, the other contact on the otter connects directly to the battery.
The large red comes straight from the battery with an inline fuse.
The black goes to the fans but has a yellow cable coming off it that then connects inline to a pink, this pink heads off into the main loom up to the dash.

So what I was thinking is connect the coil supply to the fan power supply contact, small red onto large red. Otter switch switched contact direct to an earth closer than the battery, but cannot figure out what the yellow / pink cable going into the loom would be, the cct drg in the bible shows a connection labelled K to the ecu, any ideas what that is ???

Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Thursday 16th April 2020
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The pink should go to the ecu to tell it the fans are on, I’m guessing it then increases the idle speed accordingly.
It sounds as if your trying to eliminate the relay which isn’t a good idea as the fans carry quite a high load which the wiring on its own cant handle the current.
I believe I see 2 wires in that yellow crimp terminal which should be 1 to each fan?
Im sure originally there were 2 relays for the fans, it may be worth adding something neater that can be fixed somewhere, below is just an example.
If one relay were to fail you would still have the second as back up, something you wouldn’t have with just one relay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163942500609?ul_ref=htt...


Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 16th April 08:15

Belle427

11,132 posts

254 months

Thursday 16th April 2020
quotequote all
Just to add this is something that another member has fitted and given good feedback, it can be fitted in the engine bay with a little bit of wiring work.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 16th April 08:22

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Thursday 16th April 2020
quotequote all
I was trying to tidy up rather than remove the relay, although that would be good, I don’t normally have an overheating issue so no need for any extra control system, but yes it does look a good idea and I remember following that setup a few years ago.
You are right in spotting the 2 cables, but not for the obvious reason, it’s actually speaker cable and however did it linked the 2 cores together at both ends as I guess they didn’t have the correct cable available, so this relay only feeds one fan, I see that the other fan has a cable going under the rad into front intake area, but the curious thing though is that last year I had an overheat issue while sat at some lights, I let it cool down, topped up then drove home to investigate, I found the main power feed to this relay had come off, but none of the fans were running, so thanks for mentioning the twin cable as otherwise I hadn’t thought about correcting that and investigating why and how the supply to one fan prevented both from running, I guess I have time right now