Ride height difference GT4 and corner weighting
Discussion
My GT4 was in for a service a few weeks back and it came back with no advisories. I've noticed though, that the right front is sitting around 7mm lower than the left. Is a 7mm difference within acceptable tolerances?
My second question is regarding corner weighting. My car has a Manthey racing setup fitted by the previous owner. I've never had an alignment done or checked but it drives straight with no pull or vibrations. He had the car corner weighted and a track geometry performed.
Could the 7mm difference in ride height be required to achieve balanced corner weight?
Are there any adverse effects of a 7mm difference? I know it doesn't sound a lot but it is noticeable with the arch gap being so tight to begin with.
Cheers for reading,
Owen
My second question is regarding corner weighting. My car has a Manthey racing setup fitted by the previous owner. I've never had an alignment done or checked but it drives straight with no pull or vibrations. He had the car corner weighted and a track geometry performed.
Could the 7mm difference in ride height be required to achieve balanced corner weight?
Are there any adverse effects of a 7mm difference? I know it doesn't sound a lot but it is noticeable with the arch gap being so tight to begin with.
Cheers for reading,
Owen
Is the ground completely flat ?
Has the car had any bodywork ?
It used to be in the days of the 964 / 993 that build tolerance symmetry could accommodate a 5mm variance. That was why wheel spacers could be an issue even with rolled arches ...
Of course it should be less of an issue now, so a good geo check would be my starting point.
Has the car had any bodywork ?
It used to be in the days of the 964 / 993 that build tolerance symmetry could accommodate a 5mm variance. That was why wheel spacers could be an issue even with rolled arches ...
Of course it should be less of an issue now, so a good geo check would be my starting point.
ChrisW. said:
Is the ground completely flat ?
Has the car had any bodywork ?
It used to be in the days of the 964 / 993 that build tolerance symmetry could accommodate a 5mm variance. That was why wheel spacers could be an issue even with rolled arches ...
Of course it should be less of an issue now, so a good geo check would be my starting point.
Thanks for the reply. I measured it in the garage on the concrete floor and in a carpark just for good measure. To the best of my knowledge it hasn't had bodywork, well I certainly hope not. Everything looks correct and it's straight as a die with original PPF film on every panel. Has the car had any bodywork ?
It used to be in the days of the 964 / 993 that build tolerance symmetry could accommodate a 5mm variance. That was why wheel spacers could be an issue even with rolled arches ...
Of course it should be less of an issue now, so a good geo check would be my starting point.
I guess I should be measuring between the ground and a fixed point on the chassis just to rule out any bodywork differences. It's so low though, hard to get a ruler underneath :-)
I suppose the best thing is to get a full alignment done. I kind of wanted to avoid the expense and just put my mind at rest as it drives great.
Quick and cheap way, adjust one shock, very lazy.
If they adjusted ride heights all round you would not end up with a 7mm difference. But that takes time and shops screw people over.
Starting to get pissed off with these magic geo prices from all the main Porsche shops.
I used to pay £80 and all of a sudden people want £500+
Now £500 is ok if they do a bloody good job ie all day for a full geo with corner weight as it does take time to corner weight.
But as you have found out , they don't spend the time but like to charge the ££££
If they adjusted ride heights all round you would not end up with a 7mm difference. But that takes time and shops screw people over.
Starting to get pissed off with these magic geo prices from all the main Porsche shops.
I used to pay £80 and all of a sudden people want £500+
Now £500 is ok if they do a bloody good job ie all day for a full geo with corner weight as it does take time to corner weight.
But as you have found out , they don't spend the time but like to charge the ££££
Oz83 said:
Thanks for the reply. I measured it in the garage on the concrete floor and in a carpark just for good measure. To the best of my knowledge it hasn't had bodywork, well I certainly hope not. Everything looks correct and it's straight as a die with original PPF film on every panel.
I guess I should be measuring between the ground and a fixed point on the chassis just to rule out any bodywork differences. It's so low though, hard to get a ruler underneath :-)
I suppose the best thing is to get a full alignment done. I kind of wanted to avoid the expense and just put my mind at rest as it drives great.
Just bite the bullet and get an alignment check done.... problem is, as David says...making a recommendation of where get it done is becoming tricky in the UK, and also depends on where you are (Sweden?) and how far you’re willing to travel.I guess I should be measuring between the ground and a fixed point on the chassis just to rule out any bodywork differences. It's so low though, hard to get a ruler underneath :-)
I suppose the best thing is to get a full alignment done. I kind of wanted to avoid the expense and just put my mind at rest as it drives great.
You say you have the MR kit...what exactly do you have? Lower arms only or dampers as well?
As for ride height measurement there are designated points on the chassis to read ride height from...thread counting, wheel arch gap or gap to ground can produce mixed results also.
What brake setup did end up going with? I haven’t done mine yet as the car is going nowhere soon.
Edited by TDT on Wednesday 8th April 23:37
Porsche911R said:
Quick and cheap way, adjust one shock, very lazy.
If they adjusted ride heights all round you would not end up with a 7mm difference. But that takes time and shops screw people over.
Starting to get pissed off with these magic geo prices from all the main Porsche shops.
I used to pay £80 and all of a sudden people want £500+
Now £500 is ok if they do a bloody good job ie all day for a full geo with corner weight as it does take time to corner weight.
But as you have found out , they don't spend the time but like to charge the ££££
It's funny you say that because I called a place last week who said that they would need the car all day to do a proper corner weight and adjustment. And you're right, it was just north of £500 :-)If they adjusted ride heights all round you would not end up with a 7mm difference. But that takes time and shops screw people over.
Starting to get pissed off with these magic geo prices from all the main Porsche shops.
I used to pay £80 and all of a sudden people want £500+
Now £500 is ok if they do a bloody good job ie all day for a full geo with corner weight as it does take time to corner weight.
But as you have found out , they don't spend the time but like to charge the ££££
TDT said:
Just bite the bullet and get an alignment check done.... problem is, as David says...making a recommendation of where get it done is becoming tricky, and also depends on where you are and how far you’re willing to travel.
You say you have the MR kit...what exactly do you have? Lower arms only or dampers as well?
As for ride height measurement there are designated points on the chassis to read ride height from...thread counting, wheel arch gap or gap to ground can produce mixed results also.
When did you get the car?any other mods?
The MR kit is without dampers. Adjustable arms/end links and tie rods. I got the car in autumn last year. No other mods as yet (edit - forgot about the brakes as they are still in the box). I'll spend the money on more track time and instruction this year and see how it goes regarding more power.You say you have the MR kit...what exactly do you have? Lower arms only or dampers as well?
As for ride height measurement there are designated points on the chassis to read ride height from...thread counting, wheel arch gap or gap to ground can produce mixed results also.
When did you get the car?any other mods?
I'll call tomorrow and book the alignment. I'm in Sweden and there's a place close to me that does Porsche CUP and STCC prep so they should know what they're doing.
Edit - just saw your brake question. Ended up buying the full PFC kit from design 911. Unfortunately the front pads in Compound 11 are out of stock (even though I was told all items were in stock before I ordered) so the brakes sat here doing nothing until the front pads arrive, which are inevitably delayed due to Corona. They look nice though, really well finished.
Edited by Oz83 on Wednesday 8th April 23:55
Oz83 said:
The MR kit is without dampers. Adjustable arms/end links and tie rods. I got the car in autumn last year. No other mods as yet. I'll spend the money on more track time and instruction this year and see how it goes.
Ok cool...same as me.Oz83 said:
I'll call tomorrow and book the alignment. I'm in Sweden and there's a place close to me that does Porsche CUP and STCC prep so they should know what they're doing.
Looks forward to seeing the results and hearing the feedback.What did you do about brakes?... I’m still eyeing up the PFC rotors.
Oz83 said:
TDT said:
Looks forward to seeing the results and hearing the feedback.
What did you do about brakes?... I’m still eyeing up the PFC rotors.
I'll let you know, I'll try to book it in for next week. What did you do about brakes?... I’m still eyeing up the PFC rotors.
Brakes...see above :-)
Ref pad shape... number of tuning shops I have spoken to and people that already run these rotors say you are not limited down to PFC pads only and you can use others...so makes it more appealing for me.
TDT said:
Aaah... man... those are gorgeous. Nice one.
Ref pad shape... number of tuning shops I have spoken to and people that already run these rotors say you are not limited down to PFC pads only and you can use others...so makes it more appealing for me.
That's good news. I've heard good things about the PFC Compound 11 pads so I'll see how they go. I read they are quieter than Ferodo and are easy to bed in. They are also much cheaper than Endless. I just hope they arrive soon. I was offered compound 13 as an alternative but I don't know much about them so I'd rather wait than kick myself later for being impatient. Ref pad shape... number of tuning shops I have spoken to and people that already run these rotors say you are not limited down to PFC pads only and you can use others...so makes it more appealing for me.
Oh yeah, I had Endless fluid put in when it was serviced. Not sure if that counts as a mod :-) It's funny, I swapped from a 1M to a GT4 as it's more capable on track and I've already spent more on the GT4 to make it track worthy than I ever spent on the 1M.
Just curious, you say you're in Sweden so does that mean you have a LHD car ??
If so then the corner weighting would have no doubt been done with the equivalent drivers weight placed on the drivers seat & floor, and also there's maybe a different fuel level now from when it was done ??
If so then the corner weighting would have no doubt been done with the equivalent drivers weight placed on the drivers seat & floor, and also there's maybe a different fuel level now from when it was done ??
Sandy59 said:
Just curious, you say you're in Sweden so does that mean you have a LHD car ??
If so then the corner weighting would have no doubt been done with the equivalent drivers weight placed on the drivers seat & floor, and also there's maybe a different fuel level now from when it was done ??
That's right, the car is LHD and it sits lower on the passenger side. That's a good point, I'll measure it with a friend sat in the car and see if it changes. Cheers. If so then the corner weighting would have no doubt been done with the equivalent drivers weight placed on the drivers seat & floor, and also there's maybe a different fuel level now from when it was done ??
It fills from the passenger (right hand) side but I assume the fuel tank is centered in the car. Could be wrong.
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