Ford Fiesta won’t start, clicking noise - recurring issue
Discussion
Hi guys, I hope some of you can advise. I’ve been having a recurring issue with my car failing to start, producing a clicking noise for over 18 months
For some background, my car is less than 6 years old with less than 40k miles on the clock.
18 months ago, I went to start my car one morning and it was dead. Just clicking when I turned the key. Was working fine the day before, no prior issues at all and no warning or indication anything at all was wrong.
Got mobile mechanic out, first he said it was the battery then said it was the alternator. I opted to try replacing the battery first as I was able to do this myself and I was skeptical after he changed his mind about what the issue was. So I got a brand new battery and my car worked fine for about 3 days before dying with same clicking issue as before. Admitted defeated and called the mechanic to replace alternator. Car worked fine, and had no problems for about 12 months or so. Until December last year.
Again, went out one morning and car wouldn’t start. Again, clicking noise. Immediately thought it was the alternator even though it had only been replaced in Oct 18. Got diagnostic from a different mechanic this time on a friend’s recommendation and they confirmed it was the alternator again. They initially gave me a decent quote but when I went to them a week later to give them the key to get it repaired, they put the price up by £70 and couldn’t give a convincing explanation why so I went elsewhere. So I called a third mechanic out who’d replaced my brake pads and disks 6 months prior so I trusted his work.
He agreed the alternator was gone, and replaced it but the car wouldn’t start. He said it must be the battery (car had been sitting unused for over 3 months as I couldn’t afford the cost to repair until Feb) and must have drained the battery though lack of use. No probs, battery was still under warranty so I was able to get a free replacement.
So after car had a brand new battery and alternator for the second time in 18 months, my car was again working fine. For about 3 days when the EXACT same issue recurred once again. Car wouldn’t start, clicking noise.
Can anyone shed any light on what the issue could be? Either I’ve had two dodgy alternators from two separate mechanics which seems unlikely, or there’s something else at fault.
I’m at my wits end with this car and I still have 14 months left on finance so I can’t even cut my losses by selling it. Tried speaking to ford and they wanted some unholy amount just for a diagnostic and then said they wouldn’t repair anyway due to something about non-Ford repairs/parts.
Once the engine is running, I have no problems with her. Runs just fine, but there seems to be so recurring issue causing the engine not to start.
I know it’s probably impossible to diagnose the issue without seeing the car but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
For some background, my car is less than 6 years old with less than 40k miles on the clock.
18 months ago, I went to start my car one morning and it was dead. Just clicking when I turned the key. Was working fine the day before, no prior issues at all and no warning or indication anything at all was wrong.
Got mobile mechanic out, first he said it was the battery then said it was the alternator. I opted to try replacing the battery first as I was able to do this myself and I was skeptical after he changed his mind about what the issue was. So I got a brand new battery and my car worked fine for about 3 days before dying with same clicking issue as before. Admitted defeated and called the mechanic to replace alternator. Car worked fine, and had no problems for about 12 months or so. Until December last year.
Again, went out one morning and car wouldn’t start. Again, clicking noise. Immediately thought it was the alternator even though it had only been replaced in Oct 18. Got diagnostic from a different mechanic this time on a friend’s recommendation and they confirmed it was the alternator again. They initially gave me a decent quote but when I went to them a week later to give them the key to get it repaired, they put the price up by £70 and couldn’t give a convincing explanation why so I went elsewhere. So I called a third mechanic out who’d replaced my brake pads and disks 6 months prior so I trusted his work.
He agreed the alternator was gone, and replaced it but the car wouldn’t start. He said it must be the battery (car had been sitting unused for over 3 months as I couldn’t afford the cost to repair until Feb) and must have drained the battery though lack of use. No probs, battery was still under warranty so I was able to get a free replacement.
So after car had a brand new battery and alternator for the second time in 18 months, my car was again working fine. For about 3 days when the EXACT same issue recurred once again. Car wouldn’t start, clicking noise.
Can anyone shed any light on what the issue could be? Either I’ve had two dodgy alternators from two separate mechanics which seems unlikely, or there’s something else at fault.
I’m at my wits end with this car and I still have 14 months left on finance so I can’t even cut my losses by selling it. Tried speaking to ford and they wanted some unholy amount just for a diagnostic and then said they wouldn’t repair anyway due to something about non-Ford repairs/parts.
Once the engine is running, I have no problems with her. Runs just fine, but there seems to be so recurring issue causing the engine not to start.
I know it’s probably impossible to diagnose the issue without seeing the car but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Edited by Becky88 on Friday 10th April 12:53 - corrected dates
Edited by Becky88 on Friday 10th April 12:55
Check the battery terminals are clean & tight.
Check the terminals on the starter motor are clean & tight.
You will need to check the battery charge, this can't really be done with a multimeter although a low reading would indicate a flat battery.
Once running an output check of the alternator would show if it was a faulty unit - multimeter across the battery terminals, note reading, start car & voltage should increase.
Check for parasitic battery drain - google will show you how with a multimeter.
Is there anything staying on, such as a courtesy light in the boot area not being turned off automatically or have the side/headlight been accidentally left on?
Check the terminals on the starter motor are clean & tight.
You will need to check the battery charge, this can't really be done with a multimeter although a low reading would indicate a flat battery.
Once running an output check of the alternator would show if it was a faulty unit - multimeter across the battery terminals, note reading, start car & voltage should increase.
Check for parasitic battery drain - google will show you how with a multimeter.
Is there anything staying on, such as a courtesy light in the boot area not being turned off automatically or have the side/headlight been accidentally left on?
Has anyone thought of checking the earths. I had a customer brought a Transit to me with a similar problem, local Ford dealers had replaced the starter motor twice within 6 weeks then a "Bosch Approved Service Agent" diagnosed a faulty battery, that cured the problem for another few days before he arrived at me.
I jump started vehicle checked then checked the charging rate, 12.3 volts, connected jump lead from negative battery terminal to engine block, rechecked charging rate 14.5volts, faulty earth. Strangely the faulty earth was the earth strap to the mounting bolt of the starter motor which had been replaced twice by Ford dealer
I jump started vehicle checked then checked the charging rate, 12.3 volts, connected jump lead from negative battery terminal to engine block, rechecked charging rate 14.5volts, faulty earth. Strangely the faulty earth was the earth strap to the mounting bolt of the starter motor which had been replaced twice by Ford dealer
The trouble with most recent cars - including this one probably - is that they employ 'smart charging' where the battery often doesn't charge when the car is accelerating, only when there is no throttle applied. It can be very difficult, therefore, to determine whether the alternator is faulty, or the Control Module isn't working properly.
It may need to be plugged into proper dealer's software to override the module and check the alternator output; an auto-elec mate of mine had ONE of the big makes' software to check this and it cost him £12,000...
It may need to be plugged into proper dealer's software to override the module and check the alternator output; an auto-elec mate of mine had ONE of the big makes' software to check this and it cost him £12,000...
Hi guys, thanks for all the suggestions. Most of them were out of my ability to do myself so I called out a mechanic armed with the suggestions you gave.
The mechanic checked and showed me the voltage on the alternator (14.4) and battery (11.2) and said the issue was with a corroded bolt on the fusible link. He’s given me what he’s called a temporary fix by attaching the bolt to another part of the battery but has said, rather worryingly, that there’s “a small chance it could catch fire” and he “wouldn’t say it’s safe to drive.” Although he was perfectly happy to take it for a test drive after fixing it to ensure it ran okay?! I have to wonder why he even ‘fixed’ it if his fix involves risk of fire... I can’t tell if he’s just being majorly paranoid for sake of liability, or if there really is a risk of it catching fire. He did admit he’s “paranoid” about things.
He said I need to get the fusible link replaced ASAP but has told me to find the part myself as he has supply issues due to Coronavirus which I understand to a degree but I’ve never had a mechanic tell me to find a part myself before so I’m a little skeptical of this, especially as this seems to be a part that only specialist shops would sell. If he was just asking me to get something generic that I could find in Halfords it wouldn’t strike me as so odd but as this is a specific part, I’d have thought he’d get it; he’s the mechanic, he knows what he’s looking for. I don’t. Just seems odd he didn’t even try to source this part himself and is making me question whether he’s trustworthy.
So now I’m in a position where I’ve paid him £40 to get my car running but now I’m too scared to drive it case it catches fire.
I’ve been looking all over google for this fusible link and I cannot seem to find it online, and all the car parts shops near me are closed due to Coronavirus.
He also did mention after fixing it that the alternator is hot to the touch which he is unhappy with? So now I’m worried that even if I get the fusible link that it’ll break down again shortly after with yet another costly problem.
So my questions are; does what he’s done sound reasonable and correct? Is he being paranoid about the catching fire thing or do I have genuine reason to worry and should I avoid driving my car? And where can I get this fusible link?
All advice greatly appreciated.
The mechanic checked and showed me the voltage on the alternator (14.4) and battery (11.2) and said the issue was with a corroded bolt on the fusible link. He’s given me what he’s called a temporary fix by attaching the bolt to another part of the battery but has said, rather worryingly, that there’s “a small chance it could catch fire” and he “wouldn’t say it’s safe to drive.” Although he was perfectly happy to take it for a test drive after fixing it to ensure it ran okay?! I have to wonder why he even ‘fixed’ it if his fix involves risk of fire... I can’t tell if he’s just being majorly paranoid for sake of liability, or if there really is a risk of it catching fire. He did admit he’s “paranoid” about things.
He said I need to get the fusible link replaced ASAP but has told me to find the part myself as he has supply issues due to Coronavirus which I understand to a degree but I’ve never had a mechanic tell me to find a part myself before so I’m a little skeptical of this, especially as this seems to be a part that only specialist shops would sell. If he was just asking me to get something generic that I could find in Halfords it wouldn’t strike me as so odd but as this is a specific part, I’d have thought he’d get it; he’s the mechanic, he knows what he’s looking for. I don’t. Just seems odd he didn’t even try to source this part himself and is making me question whether he’s trustworthy.
So now I’m in a position where I’ve paid him £40 to get my car running but now I’m too scared to drive it case it catches fire.
I’ve been looking all over google for this fusible link and I cannot seem to find it online, and all the car parts shops near me are closed due to Coronavirus.
He also did mention after fixing it that the alternator is hot to the touch which he is unhappy with? So now I’m worried that even if I get the fusible link that it’ll break down again shortly after with yet another costly problem.
So my questions are; does what he’s done sound reasonable and correct? Is he being paranoid about the catching fire thing or do I have genuine reason to worry and should I avoid driving my car? And where can I get this fusible link?
All advice greatly appreciated.
Ford will have the fusible link but corona virus may be causing problems
Perhaps the mechanic should have been at home not out and about
The fusible link connection being corroded is good news, it would be bad news if the link had burnt out
What he's very likely done is cut out the fusible link, some of the fusible link or fuse and made a good connection elsewhere
The fix he has made is often carried out by many people and never causes a problem
The mechanic has had to cover himself by informing you to get a new fusible link or fuse (whatever it is), if something shorts out on your car without the fusible link there is every chance of some wiring burning somewhere
Mechanic doesn't want you blaming him for burnt wiring if it was to burn in the future
As for the hot alternator, alternators do get very hot, they themselves get hot and they also get the heat from the engine, see how it goes or ask a friend for a second opinion
Worriers hey, don't worry, thousands of people are dying all around us, horrible isn't it
Keep well
Perhaps the mechanic should have been at home not out and about
The fusible link connection being corroded is good news, it would be bad news if the link had burnt out
What he's very likely done is cut out the fusible link, some of the fusible link or fuse and made a good connection elsewhere
The fix he has made is often carried out by many people and never causes a problem
The mechanic has had to cover himself by informing you to get a new fusible link or fuse (whatever it is), if something shorts out on your car without the fusible link there is every chance of some wiring burning somewhere
Mechanic doesn't want you blaming him for burnt wiring if it was to burn in the future
As for the hot alternator, alternators do get very hot, they themselves get hot and they also get the heat from the engine, see how it goes or ask a friend for a second opinion
Worriers hey, don't worry, thousands of people are dying all around us, horrible isn't it
Keep well
Becky88 said:
does what he’s done sound reasonable and correct?
Yes, entirely reasonable and sensible.Becky88 said:
Is he being paranoid about the catching fire thing or do I have genuine reason to worry
He's just limiting his liability. The fusible link protects you in case the main power cable develops a short to ground. That's an extremely rare thing to happen and there's no particular reason to think it will happen to you. If the fusible link had burned out, that would be one symptom of a short and in that case you'd have been right to worry. These fusible links are very common now but cars were built without them for decades and didn't burst into flames as a result.Becky88 said:
should I avoid driving my car?
Use the car as normal, and get the fusible link replaced as soon as it is convenient.Becky88 said:
where can I get this fusible link?
I'd have thought any good motor factor would supply it. You mechanic might be able to source one for you once businesses open back up.Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff