Indicators on constantly
Indicators on constantly
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Discussion

Jaydee2k5

Original Poster:

11 posts

90 months

Saturday 11th April 2020
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3 years into cerb ownership and I've encountered my first (and no doubt not my last..) electrical issue

Symptoms are:
Indicators on constantly - not flashing, just on like a sidelight
Constant beep from under the dash (sounds like the indicator beeper)

I removed all the boot control boxes one by one - made no difference
Removing the relays in the boot fusebox - made no difference
Battery disconnected overnight - made no difference
None of the fuses are blown
With the door control box fitted I can still lock/unlock the car, and doors/windows seem to be working ok
Alarm appears to arm/disarm too

I'm reluctant to leave it all connected for a long period of time as it feels to me that I may have a short somewhere in the indicator circuit (but not in the flasher control box as the problem persists with this disconnected)

This started happening while I was installing new fuel hoses onto the tank. I had disconnected the earthing points that share the upper tank mount and moved the tank rearwards for access. All seemed fine until about an hour into the job when the front indicators came on and the beep started. The rear indicators joined the party when I reconnected the earthing point to the tank fixing. Not sure if/how these can be related but who knows with a cerb??

Its a '00 SP6 if that makes any difference

A search of the forum yielded lots of flashing/not flashing issues (and many lighter initiated issues) but nothing like I've created...

Has anyone had similar symptoms in the past? Or any suggestions of where to search next? I'm guessing my next port of call is going to be behind the dash?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Happy Easter & stay safe all

Cheers, John

RUSSELLM

6,001 posts

264 months

Saturday 11th April 2020
quotequote all
I can’t see a diagram as such, but the pin outs are here...

http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/files/WorkshopManual/High...

Failing any better advice, I’d pick an indicator and work from there. I guess a rear light cluster, is easiest to get to. Should be a ground on the Black wire, according to the above. The fact that your other lights work, leads me to think that’s ok. If we start with the rear left indicator, it looks like it gets a positive along the Green/Red wire. Check that, but as the indicator’s illuminated, I’d guess you’ll find 12v on it.

It appears both the indicator module and the alarm module send a signal along that wire. I’m guessing they’ve spliced them together, at some point.

So I’d disconnect those modules one at a time, and see which one takes the 12v feed away.

If neither of them fix it, we can move onto volume 2 smile


Edit... Splice number 4.... From Indicator ECU, then out to rear lamp cluster, alarm module, Multi-way 3 connector (Presumably for the front indicators)



Edited by RUSSELLM on Saturday 11th April 16:13

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

126 months

Saturday 11th April 2020
quotequote all
Does disconnecting all the main battery positives from the fuse-box switch them off?

Jaydee2k5

Original Poster:

11 posts

90 months

Saturday 11th April 2020
quotequote all
Had a bit more of a root around this afternoon.

Removing fuse 3 (engine fan 2, alarm powered indicators if the workshop manual is correct) stops the indicators and beeper being on constantly, and returns the indicator function back to normal i.e. left & right flashing plus hazards all as they should be. This suggests to me that there is not an issue with the normal indicator/hazard circuits or control box.
With the fuse removed, if I then remove the indicator control box the indicators just stop working as would be expected.

Everything else appears to work normally, but I haven't tried starting the car yet as the fuel system is still in pieces. I'll tidy this up tomorrow so there are no stray wires and everything is connected then see if it will turn over to rule out the immobiliser.

I'm starting to think that I've upset the alarm/immobiliser by having its earth disconnected.

RUSSELLM

6,001 posts

264 months

Sunday 12th April 2020
quotequote all
Definitely looking like the alarm. A quick google of your symptoms, leads back to this forum smile

Apparently there’s a relay for the indicator output, inside the alarm module, and it gets stuck.

The only thing that I’d not be sure of with that, is that the pin diagram for the alarm shows separate Left and Right outputs for indicators. I am or would be surprised, if they’ve done that on One relay. Possible I suppose, as the alarm wouldn’t need to fire Left or Right individuality.

I just thought an output from the alarm to the hazard input on the indicator unit, would be simpler.

If it is a knackered alarm module, according to previous posts, you may have to make a decision as to wether you want to open it up, to fix the relay.

Or I suppose you could disconnect the indicator output pins, if you’re not bothered about them.

Edited by RUSSELLM on Sunday 12th April 08:41

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

126 months

Sunday 12th April 2020
quotequote all
Jaydee2k5 said:
Had a bit more of a root around this afternoon.

Removing fuse 3 (engine fan 2, alarm powered indicators if the workshop manual is correct) stops the indicators and beeper being on constantly, and returns the indicator function back to normal i.e. left & right flashing plus hazards all as they should be. This suggests to me that there is not an issue with the normal indicator/hazard circuits or control box.
With the fuse removed, if I then remove the indicator control box the indicators just stop working as would be expected.

Everything else appears to work normally, but I haven't tried starting the car yet as the fuel system is still in pieces. I'll tidy this up tomorrow so there are no stray wires and everything is connected then see if it will turn over to rule out the immobiliser.

I'm starting to think that I've upset the alarm/immobiliser by having its earth disconnected.
Nicely found

Byker28i

77,426 posts

234 months

Monday 13th April 2020
quotequote all
Possibly part of the anti tamper? Is it worth disconnecting the battery to reset it?

When my imobilser started packing up it would suddenly cut out when driving. I had to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes then reconnect and then the car would start.
It's a sign it needs replacing - I got mine done quite quickly

I'd open the boot, bonnet,windows, shut the doors before disconnecting the battery

Jaydee2k5

Original Poster:

11 posts

90 months

Tuesday 14th April 2020
quotequote all
Thanks all for your comments and suggestions - given me a few things to think about.

Left the battery disconnected on overnight Sunday to Monday but symptoms persisted when reconnected.
With fuse 3 still pulled, the key fob doesn't lock/unlock the car.
Door entry works ok though windows drop further than before.
Pressing the black button give me lights, radio etc as expected but no buzzer and 0v at the fuel pump - immobiliser? Unsurprisingly a second press doesn't turn the engine over.
Indicators sort of work - left turn results in left side flashing, right turn results in hazards, hazard results in hazard.

With fuse 3 reinserted the continuous indicator/beep returns.

Pretty sure I've messed up the alarm/immobilier somehow, so think my next step is to have a chat with Carl Baker as he replaced it all for me 3 yrs ago.

On the plus side - its a lovely sunny day

Byker28i

77,426 posts

234 months

Tuesday 14th April 2020
quotequote all
IS carl still doing work? Thought it was all HF now?

Jaydee2k5

Original Poster:

11 posts

90 months

Wednesday 20th May 2020
quotequote all
After chatting with Carl and a bit more work with the multimeter I'm 100% sure it is the relay within the alarm that has failed/got stuck which has connected both indicator outputs directly to the permanent live going into the alarm. Apparently all the relays within the alarm are solid state except for the one that flashes the indicators....this one is still mechanical (you can hear it click when arming/disarming) so can have a mechanical failure rolleyes

My short-term fix has been to cut (and safely insulate) the indicator wires. Once travel restrictions have been eased and Carl can resume his regular trips back to the UK I'll get it booked in with him to fix properly.

QBee

21,814 posts

161 months

Wednesday 20th May 2020
quotequote all
If this confirms it for you, I came out one morning in 2013 to find I had indicators permanently on in my Chimaera.
One trip to see Carl Baker later, the entire alarm/immobiliser system was replaced and i have never had the issue again in 45,000 miles.
He diagnosed it over the phone and fitted the latest Meta system with a remote boot release.

And yes, leave it on and it will flatten the battery for you

Byker28i

77,426 posts

234 months

Thursday 21st May 2020
quotequote all
I had my alarm replaced by Carl when that failed and decided to sound until the battery flattened. I had the imobiliser replaced by HF solutions who came to my house.
http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/

Could be worth giving them a ring as Carl is abroad now.

ukkid35

6,359 posts

190 months

Thursday 21st May 2020
quotequote all
Byker28i said:
I had the imobiliser replaced by HF solutions who came to my house.
http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/
Great service and advice from Dave at HF - highly recommended

Englishman

2,249 posts

227 months

Thursday 21st May 2020
quotequote all
I've used Abacus Alarms on the occasions I've needed parts and/or advice. Very knowledgeable. https://abacuscaralarms.co.uk/

Basil Brush

5,411 posts

280 months

Thursday 21st May 2020
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I replaced the relay in my Tuscan alarm using parts from Abacus. It's not too bad a job if you have a small soldering iron and some solder wick for the pins. I then had the car sitting with a flat battery for a bit which messed up the immobiliser so will have to get the whole thing replaced at some point.