2017 Ninja 650 ignition barrel damage

[magycks]

Hi All,

I have a 2017 Ninja 650 which sadly fell subject to criminal damage at end of the summer. The guy was caught on camera but police didn't turn anything up. Anyway the situation is as follows:

• A screwdriver was forced into the ignition barrel
• I have the key to the motorcycle. I can just about get the steering lock off but only when the key is inserted one way and not the other.
• The key still works on the locks for both fuel cap and seat lock
• The piece of trim surrounding the ignition barrel was snapped off but I've done my best to glue it back together as it was a clean break. This one bit of plastic isn't too expensive to replace so not much of an issue and rest of bike is unscathed.

So essentially my question is what are the options to get my bike back on the road? I've thought of the below but appreciate all opinions/advice:

1. Full lock set - replace ignition barrel, fuel cap lock and seat lock. Expensive! I believe some security bolts would need to be drilled out as well. Are there also aftermarket options worth looking at?
2. Replace ignition barrel only, meaning i'd either need to carry 2 keys or I've seen it's possible to replace fuel cap with an aftermarket one that's turn to unlock (which looks good) but...
3. Are there ways to convert the seat lock to be keyless as well? This could be a nice option to reduce cost and it's not like i can store or lock anything there anyway other than the mini tool kit
4. Locksmith - might one be able to 'pick' or repair the ignition barrel in some way?
5. Replace ignition barrel with identically keyed one - i called Kawasaki to see if this is possible since I have both the key and the 'key code' in my owners manual. They said the code can be used to order replacement keys but didn't think i could order a replacement keyed matched ignition barrel.

I'm based in southwest London and would really appreciate any help

[Jazoli]

If you just want to get it on the road just replace the ignition barrel, you'll have to get the transponder in the key coded to the bike though (if it has one), carrying 2 keys isn't that much of an issue really.

There's a lock set on ebay for £110

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-Z650-Ninja-ABS...

[Krikkit]

What Jaz said ^^

But, one thing to note. If you can get the lock barrel itself out of the ignition without breaking it, you might find that you can disassemble it. Most lock barrels are pretty easy to take apart, and you could then repair it with the bits from the other barrel. The pins are the bits that dictate how the lock will open, so if they're undamaged you might be able to just swap them straight over to the undamaged barrel, reassemble and away you go.

[CousinDupree]

Yep. Normally the ignition barrels do come apart quite easily.

If you have a spare set, a lock smith should be able to put together one good set using one set of keys.

[magycks]

I've attached a photo so people can see what i've got to work with

Jazoli said:

If you just want to get it on the road just replace the ignition barrel, you'll have to get the transponder in the key coded to the bike though (if it has one), carrying 2 keys isn't that much of an issue really.

From what I can see with a google, there doesn't seem to be a transponder with this model of bike though if anyone's able to confirm for certain that would be great.

CousinDupree said:

Yep. Normally the ignition barrels do come apart quite easily.

If you have a spare set, a lock smith should be able to put together one good set using one set of keys.

@Krikkit & CousinDupree - could you expand a bit around this point as I don't quite understand? Why would one want to buy a new barrel to repair the original one instead of just using that new one they just bought as a direct replacement? I've heard certain locks can be re-keyed by changing the 'wafers' if that's what you're getting at? i.e. so my original key can continue to work with a repaired ignition

Apologies for my total lack of knowledge around locks

[CousinDupree]

That's good. Just get it re-keyed by changing the wafers as you say.

Piss poor that it doesn't have an immobiliser from the factory though.

[magycks]

CousinDupree said:

That's good. Just get it re-keyed by changing the wafers as you say.

Piss poor that it doesn't have an immobiliser from the factory though.

So you reckon a locksmith can fix my existing ignition barrel to work with my original key and/or they could 're-key' a replacement one that comes matched to a new key to work with my original key?

[CousinDupree]

magycks said:

So you reckon a locksmith can fix my existing ignition barrel to work with my original key and/or they could 're-key' a replacement one that comes matched to a new key to work with my original key?

You'll have to ask one, or have a go yourself.

Usually it's done by filing down the wafers, where they interfere with the barrel on the non-original lock.

The key can be a bit looser afterwards. So it's common to use the ignition barrel as the master, if you like, all original. Then dismantle / file down the wafers as required on the tank / seat locks.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rekey-your-sea...

[magycks]

CousinDupree said:

You'll have to find one, take them the two locks and see.

Usually it's done by filing down the wafers, where they interfere with the barrel on the non-original lock.

The key can be a bit looser afterwards. So it's common to use the ignition barrel as the master, if you like, all original. Then dismantle / file down the wafers as required on the tank / seat locks.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rekey-your-sea...

Interesting, thanks! I'll take a look.

I'm thinking I might replace the fuel tank lock with a keyless one anyway as i never liked how fragile the key feels in it.

If a seat lock can be easily made to fit a new key then that could be great

[Tardigrade]

CousinDupree said:

magycks said:

The key can be a bit looser afterwards. So it's common to use the ignition barrel as the master, if you like, all original. Then dismantle / file down the wafers as required on the tank / seat locks.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rekey-your-sea...

That's really useful, but if you're gonna file the wafers and accept some reduced security it would work just as well to leave the lock intact and file down the wafer ends which are sticking out?

But yeah, that's what you need to do OP. Get the barrel out and rectify the wafers. They're probably chewed up from the theft attempt, so you'll only get a loose and easily-picked lock, but nobody tries to pick m/c locks nowadays. If you wanted to keep the ignition lock secure, you could pull out the seat lock and swap (wafers or the whole unit) and have an easily pickable seat instead.


. You could swap the wafers

[magycks]

Tardigrade said:

That's really useful, but if you're gonna file the wafers and accept some reduced security it would work just as well to leave the lock intact and file down the wafer ends which are sticking out?

But yeah, that's what you need to do OP. Get the barrel out and rectify the wafers. They're probably chewed up from the theft attempt, so you'll only get a loose and easily-picked lock, but nobody tries to pick m/c locks nowadays. If you wanted to keep the ignition lock secure, you could pull out the seat lock and swap (wafers or the whole unit) and have an easily pickable seat instead.


. You could swap the wafers

So replacing the ignition barrel with new one (no idea how difficult this is), replacing fuel cap with keyless and 'swapping wafers' in seat lock could be an option. Is swapping the wafers of a seat lock realistic to do myself?

[Krikkit]

What I meant was swapping the wafers to an undamaged barrel so you can use the key you already have with the tank and seat lock. That assumes they're not damaged of course.

[CousinDupree]

It just needs to be stripped down to see what combination of wafers will work best, given the damage caused.

[magycks]

Krikkit said:

What I meant was swapping the wafers to an undamaged barrel so you can use the key you already have with the tank and seat lock. That assumes they're not damaged of course.

Ok yeah makes sense. No idea if they're damaged or not...

Is removing (and replacing) an ignition barrel and seat lock easy to do? I saw a video for fuel cap which looks dead easy in <5min

[magycks]

There's also a couple of bolts removed from the bike. Does anyone know where I can find a workshop manual or similar to get the right bolts/screws back in?

[Jazoli]

magycks said:

There's also a couple of bolts removed from the bike. Does anyone know where I can find a workshop manual or similar to get the right bolts/screws back in?

Use https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacture...

You should find every part you need listed.

[magycks]

Jazoli said:

Use https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacture...

You should find every part you need listed.

Thanks for the link... i've been looking through but can't for the life of me work out what the bolt in this photo is (the one on the other side is missing). Any idea?

[Jazoli]

Its part 92151

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5895667/ninja...



Any M6x30mm button head bolt will do, its not critical.

Edited by Jazoli on Tuesday 9th June 19:34

[magycks]

Jazoli said:

Its part 92151

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5895667/ninja...



Any M6x30mm button head bolt will do, its not critical.

Edited by Jazoli on Tuesday 9th June 19:34

Awesome thank you very much! I'm also looking at the ignition barrel (photo below) and there's the bolts with part code 132 (M6 25mm flange bolt by looks of it). I've heard people say that some bikes have 'security screws' that need to be drilled out to replace an ignition barrel. Do you know if that's the case on this particular bike (because if so part 132 doesn't look to be it)?

Is it a big job to replace the ignition barrel? I've ordered a keyless fuel cap (as I always felt uneasy with how easy it was to bend a key in the stock one) and seat lock looks pretty straight forward.

Won't be replacing the barrel myself as looks like a bigger job and while i'm usually one to get stuck in, I'd rather the motorcycle be given a once over by a professional given I don't know what else the vandal could have done

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5895676/ninja...

[CousinDupree]

Bolt 132 is just a normal bolt, not a security one.

Removing the ignition is just those two bolts, probably also the one that you have marked as missing. Provided you can get to the electrical connector, that's it. Very simple.