Discussion
After resealing my sump I still get a few drops on the rear 4 bolts, I have just discovered the Rimmer brothers spreader bar and ordered on but just wondering if there is a practical improvement I can do at home to flatten the surface, I did file it before to remove the worst of the high spots around the bolt holes, but as can be seen it could be improved, I’m thinking about gently using a hammer but I don’t have a suitable bar to go behind it to hammer against so just wondering what others might have done ??
Leaky sump on a Chimaera, that's never been covered before
Last thing I'd be doing is filing metal off, thinner it is the easier it will deform? Nothing in your tool box/garage/shed you could hold behind as a dolly to tap flanges flat, another hammer?
Edited by phillpot on Monday 4th May 13:03
I know it’s been discussed before but seems split between people having problems and some that don’t , wondering if it’s down to how flat the face is, I did the research, the photo seems to show I lates a decent bead, maybe I should wait longer next time before tightening up, maybe it’s better to to try and leave a 1mm gap so that when you tighten up you effectively have an O ring.
The underside of the sump is also not well shaped to try and use as a support against a hammer, that’s why I asked as if anyone had a practical method they have used.
I have also read about about using a thread sealed like loctite 542 I think it was, but what that achieve, that would only seal the bolt to the block, oil shouldn’t be getting to that ?
The underside of the sump is also not well shaped to try and use as a support against a hammer, that’s why I asked as if anyone had a practical method they have used.
I have also read about about using a thread sealed like loctite 542 I think it was, but what that achieve, that would only seal the bolt to the block, oil shouldn’t be getting to that ?
I've been trying to stop this for years! Have tried the bar and refitted the sump many times with different processes. This time have also changed the crank end seal as thinking it must be coming from there. The old one looked OK but it was very hard. Not had a chance to give it a good run in the current climate...
Hi, I re-sealed my sump last year, and I’m pleased to say it’s now leak free.
Like you, I researched the job first as many have had leak problems, since.
I fitted 2 studs either side at the centre locations to enable me to refit the sump without smearing the sealant (I used Dirko SHT) all over the mating surfaces.
I used the time to fit the studs while the sealant partially cured.
Of course all surfaces were completely de-greased before reassembly.
The sump pan itself was perfectly flat and not distorted- thank God.
Tightening all bolts/nuts progressively in a diagonal manner.
All of this probably contributed to the success of the job, (which you may have done) in contrast to the old sealant which had completely failed- as I undid the sump for removal, it came away from the block, and I had to support it with a trolley jack while I undid the last few bolts.
Good luck
Like you, I researched the job first as many have had leak problems, since.
I fitted 2 studs either side at the centre locations to enable me to refit the sump without smearing the sealant (I used Dirko SHT) all over the mating surfaces.
I used the time to fit the studs while the sealant partially cured.
Of course all surfaces were completely de-greased before reassembly.
The sump pan itself was perfectly flat and not distorted- thank God.
Tightening all bolts/nuts progressively in a diagonal manner.
All of this probably contributed to the success of the job, (which you may have done) in contrast to the old sealant which had completely failed- as I undid the sump for removal, it came away from the block, and I had to support it with a trolley jack while I undid the last few bolts.
Good luck
Never had this issue in all my years of ownership inc even a sump change due to running baffles etc 
many people IME especially with cork etc always over-tighten or combine with silicone etc 
tacky sealers Yes slippery No , I use branded cork gaskets no problems and I know many also have great success with sump sealers too Reinzosil /Elring Dirko etc , I only use a gasket because I prefer the sump to be less permanent less faff to clean off after removal etc , belt and braces is definatly no gasket using a sump sealer sealant and prep is vital along with application method
many people IME especially with cork etc always over-tighten or combine with silicone etc tacky sealers Yes slippery No , I use branded cork gaskets no problems and I know many also have great success with sump sealers too Reinzosil /Elring Dirko etc , I only use a gasket because I prefer the sump to be less permanent less faff to clean off after removal etc , belt and braces is definatly no gasket using a sump sealer sealant and prep is vital along with application method 
4 will do
They are all blind/closed drillings in the block but 2 in the timing cover IIRC need threads sealing , what ever you use always make sure where the block meets rear main bearing cap and timing cover joins meet on gasket face a small smear of sealer is applied even if just using a gasket and no sealer approach 
Edited by Zener on Wednesday 6th May 10:16
Make sure your sump is flat using a straight edge. I put mine across vice jaws and using a small hammer level the high spots, usually the bolt holes.
No gasket required. Apply decent sealant (I use Wynns), then refit sump but only finger tight, no more. Allow to cure overnight then nip up. This method has been covered before & works well. Remember to put sealant on the bolt threads that break into the chamber, definitely front 2, I cant remember if the rear 2 also.
As mentioned previously, it help to alight the sump and not smear sealant by using a couple of long studs to locate.
No gasket required. Apply decent sealant (I use Wynns), then refit sump but only finger tight, no more. Allow to cure overnight then nip up. This method has been covered before & works well. Remember to put sealant on the bolt threads that break into the chamber, definitely front 2, I cant remember if the rear 2 also.
As mentioned previously, it help to alight the sump and not smear sealant by using a couple of long studs to locate.
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