Seatback release button removal question
Discussion
I'm about ready to do this. Many recommend simply using a 14 or 17mm socket and a hammer to separate the inner part of the switch from the chrome barrel. Once separated, removal is reportedly straight forward. Needless to say, the process sounds pretty harsh, especially for someone as particular as myself...collateral damage is not acceptable!
For those of you who have done this, any last words of advise or regret? Just time to put on the big boy pants and do it?
Thanks!
For those of you who have done this, any last words of advise or regret? Just time to put on the big boy pants and do it?
Thanks!
I completed the install last evening, it wasn't that bad. Some notes:
1. I used a 14mm socket covered with a few layers of electrical tape to protect the face of the old switch and a short 3/8" extension. I also put a some painter's tape on the switch for the same reason.
2. I did not use a shock impact (e.g., from a hammer), but it probably would have been fine. I held the headrest on the opposite side of the switch and pushed against the face of the switch with the covered socket. The passenger side released with little effort. The driver's side took a bit more force, but nothing extreme.
3. There's a pocket in the foam behind the switch, so when you push the switch into the headrest, it goes into the pocket. It does not create a new hole, damage the seat, etc.
4. The old switch came out in a few pieces since it was essentially dissembled as the button was pushed through the chrome barrel. Long needle nose pliers are helpful for this.
5. Every picture I've seen of these switches (plastic and glass) have two retaining springs attached to the barrel. I only found one for each switch. I found that a magnet was the easiest (and safest) way to extract the springs from the seat's foam pocket. Keep the sharp pick tools and screw drivers away from here.
6. The old switch faces were 100% fine, no damage. The chrome barrels were fine (although they may each may be missing a spring). One of the two black plastic tabs that hold the inner parts of the switch to the barrel appears to have broken off, but I was able to reassemble the old switch and it came together with a reassuring click.
7. Zero collateral damage to the seat.
Some pictures of the process are available here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/aston-martin/4...
1. I used a 14mm socket covered with a few layers of electrical tape to protect the face of the old switch and a short 3/8" extension. I also put a some painter's tape on the switch for the same reason.
2. I did not use a shock impact (e.g., from a hammer), but it probably would have been fine. I held the headrest on the opposite side of the switch and pushed against the face of the switch with the covered socket. The passenger side released with little effort. The driver's side took a bit more force, but nothing extreme.
3. There's a pocket in the foam behind the switch, so when you push the switch into the headrest, it goes into the pocket. It does not create a new hole, damage the seat, etc.
4. The old switch came out in a few pieces since it was essentially dissembled as the button was pushed through the chrome barrel. Long needle nose pliers are helpful for this.
5. Every picture I've seen of these switches (plastic and glass) have two retaining springs attached to the barrel. I only found one for each switch. I found that a magnet was the easiest (and safest) way to extract the springs from the seat's foam pocket. Keep the sharp pick tools and screw drivers away from here.
6. The old switch faces were 100% fine, no damage. The chrome barrels were fine (although they may each may be missing a spring). One of the two black plastic tabs that hold the inner parts of the switch to the barrel appears to have broken off, but I was able to reassemble the old switch and it came together with a reassuring click.
7. Zero collateral damage to the seat.
Some pictures of the process are available here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/aston-martin/4...
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