Removing the clutch master cylinder from the pedal

Removing the clutch master cylinder from the pedal

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Discussion

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

163 months

Tuesday 19th May 2020
quotequote all
Hi guys, i've decided to revive my 350i after a few years of her being stored. The master cylinder appears to dead as the pedal is soft and there's a little bit of a leak into the footwell. So i've gotten a replacement but i can't seem to find out how to remove the fork that connects it with the clutch pedal. Is it just a push pin? It doesn't appear to be a bolt, or held in place with a pin or anything. Very odd.





Edited by vampire222 on Tuesday 19th May 18:24

lancepar

1,065 posts

186 months

Tuesday 19th May 2020
quotequote all
You see the two square tangs sticking up near the nut, then pull them toward you, they clamp with spring pressure to the rod. Once free the pivot pin should wiggle out.

cool

gmw9666

2,739 posts

214 months

Tuesday 19th May 2020
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This should help...

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

163 months

Tuesday 19th May 2020
quotequote all
wow i'm gonna get it off for sure tomorrow, thanks for the helpful insights! One small step closer to reviving the wedge, hurray!

colin mee

1,205 posts

134 months

Tuesday 19th May 2020
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Give a spray with wd40 the day before

adam quantrill

11,604 posts

256 months

Wednesday 20th May 2020
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After it's been in there a while you get grooves worn into the pin which make the wiggling out bit a bit tricky, so shake the pedal while wiggling!

KKson

3,457 posts

139 months

Thursday 21st May 2020
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adam quantrill said:
so shake the pedal while wiggling!
Sounds like some new dance craze......

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

163 months

Saturday 23rd May 2020
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The pin seemed to be screwed into the fork holding it to the pedalbox. replacing the master cylinder went well (thread on piping to clutch was 3/8 NOT 7/16 weird?) but now for getting that annoying pin back in..... biggrin

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

163 months

Monday 25th May 2020
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Clutch line end is a long 3/8 unf while the hole is for a short one, so it can't go in fully and thus leaks. Does anyone know how to extend it? Is there an adapter for such issues. Other option is to either find another master cylinder with a long thread, or rebuild the old one with the new one (but the piston is really stuck). Suggestions welcome! smile

Edited by vampire222 on Monday 25th May 17:36


Edited by vampire222 on Monday 25th May 19:00

adam quantrill

11,604 posts

256 months

Tuesday 26th May 2020
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It isn't supposed to go fully in. The end of the pipe is supposed to be "expanded" (swaged out) and the union traps the pipe end against the slave cylinder, forming the seal there. Maybe the end dropped off the pipe?

vampire222

Original Poster:

433 posts

163 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
It isn't supposed to go fully in. The end of the pipe is supposed to be "expanded" (swaged out) and the union traps the pipe end against the slave cylinder, forming the seal there. Maybe the end dropped off the pipe?
It was barely going in at all, got another one where the hole is literally 2.5x or 3x as deep so hopefully that will not leak. Luckily the end is still on there! smile

carl350i

145 posts

264 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
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Just done the same job on my griffith.

The pivot pin had rusted in, took me over an hour to free it and remove.


adam quantrill

11,604 posts

256 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
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Ironically, the application of brake fluid == clutch fluid, penetrates the rust well, if left overnight, job's a good-un.

Sometimes the reason for the change (leaky cylinder) even supplies the fluid!

carl350i

145 posts

264 months

Friday 5th June 2020
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I wish that was the case, mine just dripped on the carpet.

I did it before when I got the car about 15 years ago, I’m a bit older now and lying upside down in the footwell brings it all back.