Cleaning products
Discussion
Auto smart G101.
Buy it, make sure you dilute it.
I have it 3:1 plastics and leather. 1:1 wheels, I also use a non acid wheel cleaner called Chrime Wheelbrite.
Autoglym Glass polish for glass.
Autoglym vinyl and rubber care for plastics ( after I have gone over them with 101 ) or Chrome Pink.
Autoglym tyre dressing.
Turtle wax, was it wet. This you spray on the body work when it’s wet and shammy off with the water.
Turtle wax high gloss, polish. Goes on very easy and rubs off very easy.
I keep a very clean car, but I am not an obsessive detailed type.
Find what products work for you.
Buy an new 1/2 inch paint brush to get in interior nooks and crannies.
I use a toothbrush on my wheels.
Buy a pair of cheap knee pads for your knees.
I use the two bucket method and have a hose ready, I never jet wash my car.
I use Autoglym car shampoo for washing.
If you use the two bucket method mark one soap and one rinse as they will get mixed up.
I always start with my wheels first and get the worst job out of the way first.
It’s all about what you want to do and feel comfortable really.
Buy it, make sure you dilute it.
I have it 3:1 plastics and leather. 1:1 wheels, I also use a non acid wheel cleaner called Chrime Wheelbrite.
Autoglym Glass polish for glass.
Autoglym vinyl and rubber care for plastics ( after I have gone over them with 101 ) or Chrome Pink.
Autoglym tyre dressing.
Turtle wax, was it wet. This you spray on the body work when it’s wet and shammy off with the water.
Turtle wax high gloss, polish. Goes on very easy and rubs off very easy.
I keep a very clean car, but I am not an obsessive detailed type.
Find what products work for you.
Buy an new 1/2 inch paint brush to get in interior nooks and crannies.
I use a toothbrush on my wheels.
Buy a pair of cheap knee pads for your knees.
I use the two bucket method and have a hose ready, I never jet wash my car.
I use Autoglym car shampoo for washing.
If you use the two bucket method mark one soap and one rinse as they will get mixed up.
I always start with my wheels first and get the worst job out of the way first.
It’s all about what you want to do and feel comfortable really.
Little Pete said:
Thanks for the responses guys. I’ve given Mrs Pete a wish list for my birthday next month.
Have you looked in the 'Bodywork & Detailing' section? https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&...As an observation some of these products are very expensive compared with tried and trusted old stuff. As just one example I need to feed and soften the seats in the XKSS. Saddle soap has been the go-to product for generations, works perfectly and costs little. Yet if the bottle has "car" on the label the price rockets.
Riley Blue said:
Little Pete said:
Thanks for the responses guys. I’ve given Mrs Pete a wish list for my birthday next month.
Have you looked in the 'Bodywork & Detailing' section? https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&...
lowdrag said:
As an observation some of these products are very expensive compared with tried and trusted old stuff. As just one example I need to feed and soften the seats in the XKSS. Saddle soap has been the go-to product for generations, works perfectly and costs little. Yet if the bottle has "car" on the label the price rockets.
So people buying automotive detailing products should try changing tack?InitialDave said:
lowdrag said:
As an observation some of these products are very expensive compared with tried and trusted old stuff. As just one example I need to feed and soften the seats in the XKSS. Saddle soap has been the go-to product for generations, works perfectly and costs little. Yet if the bottle has "car" on the label the price rockets.
So people buying automotive detailing products should try changing tack?Also Bar Keeper's Friend and a Magic Sponge will sort out most glass needs.
What you need to use, and when, will depend on the condition of the paint and you need to know what the different classes of products do.
There are many graduations and variations but in general:
1. Rubbing compound (on the high street e.g. T-Cut) - Mild abrasive that takes off a thin layer of paint, removing visible scratches/UV damage/etc in the surface layer of paint. Use VERY sparingly. Think using a nail brush to get the deeply ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
2. Polish - A more mild abrasive, usually containing fillers. The abrasive elements take off a thinner layer of paint than rubbing compounds but still remove some, removing the lightest scratches in the paint surface. The fillers do what they sound like and fill some of the deeper scratches to give you a flat surface. Think using a hand cleaner with little particles in it, which gets all bar the most ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
3. Wax - A non-abrasive protective coating applied on top of the paint to protect the surface from damage. Think applying a barrier cream before working on a car to avoid getting mucky.
4. Wash - Just a 'soap' designed to help remove non-ingrained contaminants from the surface of the paint. Think running your hands under water after working on a car.
5. Clay - Hard to describe this one but basically a blob of material that's more attractive to really tiny metallic particles and things that 'bond' to the paint surface than staying bonded to the paint surface. Can't think of an analogy for this one, maybe rubbing your hands clean on a towel?
For me:
1. Week to week - just a wash, personally using Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash.
2. Couple of times a year when I can face it - wash/wax, again Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash/Auto-Balm
3. Usually once a year in the spring - wash/clay/wax, Auto-Wash/Auto-Clay/Auto-Balm
That tends to protect things nicely and avoid needing more drastic measures. Polish might come out once for a new car with slightly tired paint, or if a car gets too many swirl marks from washing. Rubbing compound only comes out for really bad paintwork or when blending in any touch-up repainting.
There are many graduations and variations but in general:
1. Rubbing compound (on the high street e.g. T-Cut) - Mild abrasive that takes off a thin layer of paint, removing visible scratches/UV damage/etc in the surface layer of paint. Use VERY sparingly. Think using a nail brush to get the deeply ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
2. Polish - A more mild abrasive, usually containing fillers. The abrasive elements take off a thinner layer of paint than rubbing compounds but still remove some, removing the lightest scratches in the paint surface. The fillers do what they sound like and fill some of the deeper scratches to give you a flat surface. Think using a hand cleaner with little particles in it, which gets all bar the most ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
3. Wax - A non-abrasive protective coating applied on top of the paint to protect the surface from damage. Think applying a barrier cream before working on a car to avoid getting mucky.
4. Wash - Just a 'soap' designed to help remove non-ingrained contaminants from the surface of the paint. Think running your hands under water after working on a car.
5. Clay - Hard to describe this one but basically a blob of material that's more attractive to really tiny metallic particles and things that 'bond' to the paint surface than staying bonded to the paint surface. Can't think of an analogy for this one, maybe rubbing your hands clean on a towel?
For me:
1. Week to week - just a wash, personally using Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash.
2. Couple of times a year when I can face it - wash/wax, again Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash/Auto-Balm
3. Usually once a year in the spring - wash/clay/wax, Auto-Wash/Auto-Clay/Auto-Balm
That tends to protect things nicely and avoid needing more drastic measures. Polish might come out once for a new car with slightly tired paint, or if a car gets too many swirl marks from washing. Rubbing compound only comes out for really bad paintwork or when blending in any touch-up repainting.
Depends on which one, but I have specific requirements!
Current car is a soft cloth and brasso
Next car (current project) will be a soft scouring pad and windex
(Bare aluminium bodywork)
Current car is a total pain in the ass keeping it polished and shiny. Next one will be a brushed/matte type appearance.
Current car is a soft cloth and brasso
Next car (current project) will be a soft scouring pad and windex
(Bare aluminium bodywork)
Current car is a total pain in the ass keeping it polished and shiny. Next one will be a brushed/matte type appearance.
InitialDave said:
So people buying automotive detailing products should try changing tack?
Very good, but we must try and rein in your sense of humour. On a serious note, the two 30-yr old seats were as stiff as cardboard, but after one treatment (£5 the tin) here is the result, and I'll keep treating them every day and they'll come back nicely.
lowdrag said:
Very good, but we must try and rein in your sense of humour. On a serious note, the two 30-yr old seats were as stiff as cardboard, but after one treatment (£5 the tin) here is the result, and I'll keep treating them every day and they'll come back nicely.
Heaven for leather is £6.99 (Angelwax) its a cleaner, there is a feed which is also £6.99, leather - well vinyl that they seem to fit these days for me has to have a matt finish when clean.//j17 said:
What you need to use, and when, will depend on the condition of the paint and you need to know what the different classes of products do.
There are many graduations and variations but in general:
1. Rubbing compound (on the high street e.g. T-Cut) - Mild abrasive that takes off a thin layer of paint, removing visible scratches/UV damage/etc in the surface layer of paint. Use VERY sparingly. Think using a nail brush to get the deeply ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
2. Polish - A more mild abrasive, usually containing fillers. The abrasive elements take off a thinner layer of paint than rubbing compounds but still remove some, removing the lightest scratches in the paint surface. The fillers do what they sound like and fill some of the deeper scratches to give you a flat surface. Think using a hand cleaner with little particles in it, which gets all bar the most ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
3. Wax - A non-abrasive protective coating applied on top of the paint to protect the surface from damage. Think applying a barrier cream before working on a car to avoid getting mucky.
4. Wash - Just a 'soap' designed to help remove non-ingrained contaminants from the surface of the paint. Think running your hands under water after working on a car.
5. Clay - Hard to describe this one but basically a blob of material that's more attractive to really tiny metallic particles and things that 'bond' to the paint surface than staying bonded to the paint surface. Can't think of an analogy for this one, maybe rubbing your hands clean on a towel?
For me:
1. Week to week - just a wash, personally using Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash.
2. Couple of times a year when I can face it - wash/wax, again Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash/Auto-Balm
3. Usually once a year in the spring - wash/clay/wax, Auto-Wash/Auto-Clay/Auto-Balm
That tends to protect things nicely and avoid needing more drastic measures. Polish might come out once for a new car with slightly tired paint, or if a car gets too many swirl marks from washing. Rubbing compound only comes out for really bad paintwork or when blending in any touch-up repainting.
Great post and really helpful, thanks. There are many graduations and variations but in general:
1. Rubbing compound (on the high street e.g. T-Cut) - Mild abrasive that takes off a thin layer of paint, removing visible scratches/UV damage/etc in the surface layer of paint. Use VERY sparingly. Think using a nail brush to get the deeply ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
2. Polish - A more mild abrasive, usually containing fillers. The abrasive elements take off a thinner layer of paint than rubbing compounds but still remove some, removing the lightest scratches in the paint surface. The fillers do what they sound like and fill some of the deeper scratches to give you a flat surface. Think using a hand cleaner with little particles in it, which gets all bar the most ingrained muck off your hands after working on a car.
3. Wax - A non-abrasive protective coating applied on top of the paint to protect the surface from damage. Think applying a barrier cream before working on a car to avoid getting mucky.
4. Wash - Just a 'soap' designed to help remove non-ingrained contaminants from the surface of the paint. Think running your hands under water after working on a car.
5. Clay - Hard to describe this one but basically a blob of material that's more attractive to really tiny metallic particles and things that 'bond' to the paint surface than staying bonded to the paint surface. Can't think of an analogy for this one, maybe rubbing your hands clean on a towel?
For me:
1. Week to week - just a wash, personally using Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash.
2. Couple of times a year when I can face it - wash/wax, again Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash/Auto-Balm
3. Usually once a year in the spring - wash/clay/wax, Auto-Wash/Auto-Clay/Auto-Balm
That tends to protect things nicely and avoid needing more drastic measures. Polish might come out once for a new car with slightly tired paint, or if a car gets too many swirl marks from washing. Rubbing compound only comes out for really bad paintwork or when blending in any touch-up repainting.
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