Discussion
I'm having a towbar fitted to my audi a4 avant, to be used for a trailer and possibly later a caravan. I've heard many stories of problems with detachable towbars so I'm considering a fixed swan neck towbar. My questions are
1. Will a fixed swan neck towbar cause a problem with my reversing sensors?
2. If I remove the towball section when not in use (only 2 bolts I believe) will the towbar be fairly unobtrusive and be less likely to be caught by our shins when loading the car etc
3. Any recommendations re brands, any to avoid?
grateful for any advice
1. Will a fixed swan neck towbar cause a problem with my reversing sensors?
2. If I remove the towball section when not in use (only 2 bolts I believe) will the towbar be fairly unobtrusive and be less likely to be caught by our shins when loading the car etc
3. Any recommendations re brands, any to avoid?
grateful for any advice
Imho removable towbar problems stem from improper use and/or maintenance - torque it to the right spec, keep the bolts clean and rust-free, check it regularly and it'll be fine.
Often they're abused by being removed/refixed every other week without checking the bolts, slathering the fasteners in grease, over-loading the towbar and the fixings fail, etc etc.
Often they're abused by being removed/refixed every other week without checking the bolts, slathering the fasteners in grease, over-loading the towbar and the fixings fail, etc etc.
The Westfalia towbars are pretty much identical to the VAG OEM ones. This means little or no bumper cutting, and the removable section fits into the space for it in lump of polystyrene in the spare wheel well.
I've had a Westfalia removable towbar on my Octavia for the last 8 years with no mechanical issues. It's never come loose, and I was told when it was fitted that it only lets you remove the key when the removable part has engaged properly into the clip.
The 13 pin 'euro' electrics socket became a bit unreliable over last winter, so I need to change the socket now. Thats lasted about 5 years longer than the 7 pin socket on my previous car though....
I've had a Westfalia removable towbar on my Octavia for the last 8 years with no mechanical issues. It's never come loose, and I was told when it was fitted that it only lets you remove the key when the removable part has engaged properly into the clip.
The 13 pin 'euro' electrics socket became a bit unreliable over last winter, so I need to change the socket now. Thats lasted about 5 years longer than the 7 pin socket on my previous car though....
lornemalvo said:
2. If I remove the towball section when not in use (only 2 bolts I believe) will the towbar be fairly unobtrusive and be less likely to be caught by our shins when loading the car etc
I fitted my own towbar and I remember these particular bolts were meant to be tightened to a big torque figure... 1 metre breaker bar done up FT sort of torque. I'm no metallurgist but that sort of torque stretches bolts and if you put them through cycles of tightening and loosening you'll find the bolts might break at an inopportune moment.Someone will be along now to say they've always used their normal towbar as removable and never had a problem
I wouldn't recommend it though.RobM77 said:
I have a new car that needs a tow bar fitting (BMW 530d). Does anyone have any advice? I was just going to call the nearest mobile tow bar person.
Modern cars are easy if you are happy to remove the bumper and some internal trim panels... The towbar itself bolts into chassis members and the electrics are plug and play for many cars. I ordered an Erich Jaeger electrics kit for mine from Germany as it was cheaper than the UK suppliers... The name of the supplier escapes me I'm afraid.donkmeister said:
lornemalvo said:
2. If I remove the towball section when not in use (only 2 bolts I believe) will the towbar be fairly unobtrusive and be less likely to be caught by our shins when loading the car etc
I fitted my own towbar and I remember these particular bolts were meant to be tightened to a big torque figure... 1 metre breaker bar done up FT sort of torque. I'm no metallurgist but that sort of torque stretches bolts and if you put them through cycles of tightening and loosening you'll find the bolts might break at an inopportune moment.Someone will be along now to say they've always used their normal towbar as removable and never had a problem
I wouldn't recommend it though.I have a "fixed" tow bar on my car, when you first get one, you do tend to catch a knee/shin, but soon get used to it. They are cheaper
I would prefer a removable tow bar, as when not in use less likely to get in the way, but mostly because a fixed tow bar is sticking out. If you get rear ended, the vehicle behind is hitting a hard object, which is attached to the chassis, the knock could cause extensive damage to the structure or the car, where as a bumper is designed to absorb energy, and be cheaper in an accident to fix.
A removable one is easy to keep clean, and no cleaning required before attaching trailer/caravan
I assumed parking sensors at rear of vehicle only activate if car in reverse, so should not be a problem
Some removable tow bars need a special bike rack (normally more expensive) if you wish to carry bikes on the back
If your going to tow, make sure you do not exceed "nose weight" on tow ball, so if your going to buy a caravan/horse box make sure your car can cope with the weight you are pulling, and then "balance" nose of trailer so it is between guidelines otherwise the towing experience can be bad/dangerous
People often neglet to adjust tyre pressures when towing....can also make a difference in fuel consumption/wear on tryes/dangerous
I would prefer a removable tow bar, as when not in use less likely to get in the way, but mostly because a fixed tow bar is sticking out. If you get rear ended, the vehicle behind is hitting a hard object, which is attached to the chassis, the knock could cause extensive damage to the structure or the car, where as a bumper is designed to absorb energy, and be cheaper in an accident to fix.
A removable one is easy to keep clean, and no cleaning required before attaching trailer/caravan
I assumed parking sensors at rear of vehicle only activate if car in reverse, so should not be a problem
Some removable tow bars need a special bike rack (normally more expensive) if you wish to carry bikes on the back
If your going to tow, make sure you do not exceed "nose weight" on tow ball, so if your going to buy a caravan/horse box make sure your car can cope with the weight you are pulling, and then "balance" nose of trailer so it is between guidelines otherwise the towing experience can be bad/dangerous
People often neglet to adjust tyre pressures when towing....can also make a difference in fuel consumption/wear on tryes/dangerous
We have had detachable for years.
As long as they are suitably lubricated (as per manufacturers recommendations) I've not had a problem. My shins hate it when I've left them on for a bit lol.
My wife's GTI has a folding one, which is more convenient., but has sometimes required a couple of goes to lock.
I've fitted some myself, but last time I was too lazy. Trident Trailers did a spotless install on my D3.
As long as they are suitably lubricated (as per manufacturers recommendations) I've not had a problem. My shins hate it when I've left them on for a bit lol.
My wife's GTI has a folding one, which is more convenient., but has sometimes required a couple of goes to lock.
I've fitted some myself, but last time I was too lazy. Trident Trailers did a spotless install on my D3.
donkmeister said:
I fitted my own towbar and I remember these particular bolts were meant to be tightened to a big torque figure... 1 metre breaker bar done up FT sort of torque. I'm no metallurgist but that sort of torque stretches bolts and if you put them through cycles of tightening and loosening you'll find the bolts might break at an inopportune moment.
Someone will be along now to say they've always used their normal towbar as removable and never had a problem I wouldn't recommend it though.
Standard M16 8.8 bolts are used, so 175Nm. Once torqued, bolts should not be reused.Someone will be along now to say they've always used their normal towbar as removable and never had a problem
I wouldn't recommend it though.Swan necks are the slimmest profile and less likely to interfere with reversing sensors. If you have the OEM towbar electrics then in most cases the electrics should be more compatible - turning off reversing sensors or turning off the centre 2 sensors only depending on how clever the car is/isn't and using a towing programme for the DSC.
I've had 2 Witter removables with swan necks and used them with no problems. The only difficultly was learning how it fits which is overly complicated. Once you practice hald a dozen times it's easy.
I've had 2 Witter removables with swan necks and used them with no problems. The only difficultly was learning how it fits which is overly complicated. Once you practice hald a dozen times it's easy.
I have a Towtrust removable towbar on my ML. There's an electronics unit fitted to the car so when trailer electrics are plugged in it deactivates the rear parking sensors.
It's a foolproof fit/remove system and with it removed you'd never know the car has one fitted (obviously) and it cost £525. I love it.
It's a foolproof fit/remove system and with it removed you'd never know the car has one fitted (obviously) and it cost £525. I love it.
Majorslow said:
I have a "fixed" tow bar on my car, when you first get one, you do tend to catch a knee/shin, but soon get used to it. They are cheaper
I would prefer a removable tow bar, as when not in use less likely to get in the way, but mostly because a fixed tow bar is sticking out. If you get rear ended, the vehicle behind is hitting a hard object, which is attached to the chassis, the knock could cause extensive damage to the structure or the car, where as a bumper is designed to absorb energy, and be cheaper in an accident to fix.
Everything else in your post stands but from my experience of fitting an entire one towbar, the majority of the structure of the towbar (the bit that remains when you remove a removable) is hidden behind the bumper and replaces the crashbar. So I'm not sure that there would be much difference between being rear ended with a fixed bar and a removable bar.I would prefer a removable tow bar, as when not in use less likely to get in the way, but mostly because a fixed tow bar is sticking out. If you get rear ended, the vehicle behind is hitting a hard object, which is attached to the chassis, the knock could cause extensive damage to the structure or the car, where as a bumper is designed to absorb energy, and be cheaper in an accident to fix.
I realise my sample size is small but when i was shopping around the structural bits looked all much of a muchness.
Veering slightly off topic, people also encounter problems with their tow bar because they are tempted to leave it on / out when they have parked the car thinking it will act as a ‘bump guard’. Whilst it is true that the tow bar will make a nice mess of someone’s plastic bumper / grill should they drive into the tow bar, there is also a risk that the tow bar and the area it is connected too gets damaged... In turn this could be a significant repair.
Just fitted towtrust detachable to my RS6, it's completely invisible when not in use. Very high quality I have to say but this is my first removable one, always had fixed before so I'm looking forward to my shins now recovering by not walking into the ball every time I walk behind the car!
Easy fit if you take your time.
Highly recommend dedicated electrics kit, make sure you have the towing module in the car already and you're set.
I coded it in using VCDS plenty of info online if you have the kit, if not you can find a local person with it to code for you.
Parking sensors deactivate when plugged in, air suspension and ABS/stability changes to tow mode, electric boot opening only on the boot switch not key, air suspension changes to tow mode, individual warning lights for each trailer bulb if failed.
Easy fit if you take your time.
Highly recommend dedicated electrics kit, make sure you have the towing module in the car already and you're set.
I coded it in using VCDS plenty of info online if you have the kit, if not you can find a local person with it to code for you.
Parking sensors deactivate when plugged in, air suspension and ABS/stability changes to tow mode, electric boot opening only on the boot switch not key, air suspension changes to tow mode, individual warning lights for each trailer bulb if failed.
Edited by PGM on Friday 5th June 07:18
Posted this question in another section without response so thought I’d resurrect an old thread instead…
Anyway - I’ve just bought a 2012 (mk3) Honda CRV with most of a towbar assembly fitted but missing the detachable part. I’ve searched the car and it doesn’t appear to be there, unless I’m missing a super-secret cubby hole somewhere. I’d obviously like to buy a replacement part rather than a complete new towbar (to be used with a bike carrier that I already own and potentially, for a small camping trailer that I don’t yet)
Does anyone recognise whether this is an OEM fitment or aftermarket? Academic in a way as my real request is for help in identifying the appropriate replacement!
Anyway - I’ve just bought a 2012 (mk3) Honda CRV with most of a towbar assembly fitted but missing the detachable part. I’ve searched the car and it doesn’t appear to be there, unless I’m missing a super-secret cubby hole somewhere. I’d obviously like to buy a replacement part rather than a complete new towbar (to be used with a bike carrier that I already own and potentially, for a small camping trailer that I don’t yet)
Does anyone recognise whether this is an OEM fitment or aftermarket? Academic in a way as my real request is for help in identifying the appropriate replacement!
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