Fuel leak
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Discussion

Relayer

Original Poster:

46 posts

80 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
I have a fuel leak in the rubber hose closest to bulk head directly under the bonnet latch. The two lines were tied to each other with a cable tie so suspect that caused part of the problem other than normal degradation of the rubber fuel line.

Car is in garage so not stranded but is there a temporary fix of tape or glue available until I'm able to replace line. Do not need to use car just want to stop the weeping as I can see where the tube is cracked.

Glad I decided to start her up and look under the bonnet …...haven't done that in a while. Fuel was collecting on Rocker cover.

This fuel line looks like a pain to replace. Where is next jubilee clip heading towards tank?

magpies

5,190 posts

203 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
this is a common problem with old fuel hose and new Ethanol fuel. Gates Barricade hose is a good one to go to.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

279 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
The rubber joins copper somewhere above the bell housing so not easy to get at.

Gates Barricade is the hose we use.

Steve

Relayer

Original Poster:

46 posts

80 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
Don't want to change fuel lines myself and as I know one fuel line is on it's way I'm assuming they all are. A job for Mat Smith. Question is can I do a temporary fix with tape(?) or is it a job for AA Home start just to get her there?

O mage

229 posts

68 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
Relayer said:
Don't want to change fuel lines myself and as I know one fuel line is on it's way I'm assuming they all are. A job for Mat Smith. Question is can I do a temporary fix with tape(?) or is it a job for AA Home start just to get her there?
is it leaking at the end near the clip or further down?

Relayer

Original Poster:

46 posts

80 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
It's leaking directly under the bonnet latch mechanism on the bend in the rubber tube. It's the fuel line that goes over/around the bell housing.

O mage

229 posts

68 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
Relayer said:
It's leaking directly under the bonnet latch mechanism on the bend in the rubber tube. It's the fuel line that goes over/around the bell housing.
If you get a small length of that bendy central heating copper pipe 10mm cut the leaking bend out and piece it back together with the copper and 2 jubilee clips. That might hold it to get to a repairer.

BIG DUNC

1,919 posts

244 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
Tape will not hold it.
If that fuel on the rocker cover got to the exhaust manifold you then have a fire and no TVR.
If you cannot do the job yourself then find a mobile mechanic, this job doesn’t require a TVR specialist. Alternatively arrange for the car to be transported on a trailer or recovery truck.

As Steve said, the clip above the bell housing is a pain to get to. One way round this is to cut the copper pipe lower down where it is easier to get to and have a longer flexi.


Zener

19,286 posts

242 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
Like mentioned already get it recovered to your garage of choice or a decent mobile mechanic at home , dont chance any kind of temp repair however

spitfire4v8

4,021 posts

202 months

Monday 8th June 2020
quotequote all
Do you have a pic of the offending pipe ?

Relayer

Original Poster:

46 posts

80 months

Monday 8th June 2020
quotequote all


I do.

bobfather

11,194 posts

276 months

Monday 8th June 2020
quotequote all
Changing the hoses is relatively easy, the problem is access. You need to remove the plenum to gain access to the hose connection over the bell housing and while you're there you may as well replace the short length that connects to the pressure regulator. This hose replacement has been done by many people here because the hoses suffer from too much heat radiation and apparently modern fuel additives. Be sure that the correct rated hoses are used and you should use stainless MIKALOR pipe clamps as opposed to jubilee clips. Do not be tempted to fit hoses that have an outer metal sheath as the sheath appears to intensify the heat deterioration and hides them from view so you won't see early warning signs of deterioration. As said above, you can do this without removing the plenum by cutting the copper fuel hose further along its length. The issue with doing that is that the replacement hose would then rest on the bell housing causing potential for surface abrasion, also you would not have the opportunity to replace the short pressure regulator hose

spitfire4v8

4,021 posts

202 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
Those hoses and the too-big jubilee clips (on the heater pipes too ..) all point to them being original fit hoses. Is there any evidence of cracking anywhere on them?

Don't forget to change every fuel hose on the car not just the engine bay hoses.

Belle427

11,127 posts

254 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
Knuckle scraping fun but nothing a decent mechanic couldn’t cope with.
May be better to ship it off to a Tvr specialist though and let them do all the hoses and replace the filter too.

QBee

22,015 posts

165 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
Ethanol in fuel is eating our fuel hoses.
Thanks, Grant Schapps.
My TVR specialist changes all fuel hoses every two years, as it's a risk not worth taking.
The offending hoses pass directly over the number 8 exhaust manifold.
Cracked ones look like this:



The other fire risk you need to check is to check that your battery is covered properly before you pile the spaghetti of wiring back on top.
If it earths the battery out your car can end up toast in less than ten minutes.

This is what a burnt out Tamora looks like - it went up in ten minutes, despite help being at hand with fire extinguishers.
We suspect it was an electrical shorting of the battery.
But a fuel fire is just as bad - fibreglass is very flammable.


Zener

19,286 posts

242 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
TBF only st quality unbranded hoses crack like above (they are generic crap in shot) ethanol in fuel or otherwise frown with the right quality and spec no need for 2 yearly replacement IMO scratchchin and even with non compliant hose ethanol will just permeate/sweat through its construction but thats also far from ideal obviously rolleyes

Belle427

11,127 posts

254 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
I’d agree, the heat doesn’t help but quality hose will last. I changed the short return hose to tank at the rear of the car last week and it was as good as new 25 years on.

magpies

5,190 posts

203 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
is there any way of fitting longer runs of copper pipe and keeping the flexibles to as short as possible and in locations that allow easy inspection and future renewal? I did that on my S1 rebuild.

Belle427

11,127 posts

254 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
magpies said:
is there any way of fitting longer runs of copper pipe and keeping the flexibles to as short as possible and in locations that allow easy inspection and future renewal? I did that on my S1 rebuild.
I chose to do this, brought them up further.
Still a little tricky to change but easily visible for inspection.


magpies

5,190 posts

203 months

Tuesday 9th June 2020
quotequote all
If possible it would be better to bring the copper pipe's further into the engine compartment and joined using two short straight flexible hoses.