Discussion
Sorry if this has been raised before, but did search and found nout under this heading on this forum....
Narrowing choice of car down to either Chim or Griff 4.3 or 5.0, and want best combo of performance, handling, sound - of course - and long term value for money.
Apart from the quality standards of each individual car ref: how well each has been cared for, are the engines the same in both cars?
Before travelling to South Wales, Glasgow or Bucks and back in one day from Liverpool, I'd welcome some thoughts.
Cheers folks
>> Edited by shadowfax on Monday 20th June 08:26
Narrowing choice of car down to either Chim or Griff 4.3 or 5.0, and want best combo of performance, handling, sound - of course - and long term value for money.
Apart from the quality standards of each individual car ref: how well each has been cared for, are the engines the same in both cars?
Before travelling to South Wales, Glasgow or Bucks and back in one day from Liverpool, I'd welcome some thoughts.
Cheers folks
>> Edited by shadowfax on Monday 20th June 08:26
Well, If you want the electrics to work, I'd get a post '97 car. Which will narrow your options, since you cannot then get a 4.3. I'd get a Griff or Chim 500, with the possibility of a Chim 450. The 500's will have all the performance you need.
>> Edited by SharkyTVR on Monday 20th June 12:55
>> Edited by SharkyTVR on Monday 20th June 12:55
I've had a 4 and 4.3 Chim and loved em both - but if you're any thing like me (and a lot of p/h ers) you are always gonna want the holy grail (5 litres!!)
Got mine now and I'm happy - maybe stop looking around now for a while!!
But whatever you go for, get a good one and you'll love it...
Got mine now and I'm happy - maybe stop looking around now for a while!!
But whatever you go for, get a good one and you'll love it...
asap and I'll give you an update shortly...jonnyb said:
Well, If you want the electrics to work, I'd get a post '97 car.
Why? What happened to the electrics in 1997 that makes them more reliable?
I'm not entirely sure, TBH - just that manufacturing processes seem to allow higher quality levels from then on. When I was researching the purchase of my Chim, all the dealers I visited (Fernies, Gatwick, Adrian Blyth) had a very similar message
I HAVE A 4.3 WITH A FEW MODS. AFTER A ROLLING ROAD SESSION IT GAVE A LOT MORE POWER THAN A STANDARD 5 LITRE, AND ONLY 2 BHP LESS THAN A WELL MODIFIED 5 LITRE. SO I WOULD GO FOR THE 4.3 EVERY TIME. NOT JUST BECAUSE OF BIG POWER GAINS AFTER A FEW MODS, BUT ALSO THEY ARE KNOWN TO BE A STRONGER ENGINE (BOTTOM END WAS MADE BY COSWORTH I BELIEVE) AND ONLY AROUND 200 4.3 CHIMAERAS WERE MADE.
SROOTSEY said:
I HAVE A 4.3 WITH A FEW MODS, 2 BHP LESS THAN A WELL MODIFIED 5 LITRE.
So you're saying that you have measured the bhp on a rolling road where a modded 5 litre has been measured and converted that to a flywheel figure of about 340bhp and that your 4.3 gave the same bhp? I hope that you have a good shield.
19560 said:
I HAVE A 4.3 WITH A FEW MODS, 2 BHP LESS THAN A WELL MODIFIED 5 LITRE.
So you're saying that you have measured the bhp on a rolling road where a modded 5 litre has been measured and converted that to a flywheel figure of about 340bhp and that your 4.3 gave the same bhp? I hope that you have a good shield.
FWIW, I've heard (reputable source) that there is a certain engine builder in the midlands who regularly obtains around 300bhp from std engines (ie rover / LR) when rebuilding, simply by very high compression as I understood it. As I understood it this info was from the dyno measurement, not the builder. It would seem that there are other ways to liberate power than extra displacement or plug on plastic and silicon chips, contrary to the PH gestalt.
I'd certainly keep an open mind on such power claims, but would not be so hasty to dismiss claims like the above out of hand.
Dave
In my experienced most highly modded/tuned engines tend to be (more) temperamental than those that are less stressed.
Since producing 300+ BHP is probably going to be less stressful for a 5L engine than a 4.3L, the chances are, it is going to be more reliable, and less likely to fall off tune.
In the Bible, Steve Heath talks about his 4.5 BV Griff, which because of the high level of tune "goes out of tune easily and really needs servicing every 4500 miles with constant oil changes".
Me? I'd prefer a mildly tuned 5L, rather than have to accept the cost and inconvenience of this increased tuning/servicing. But that's just my opinion.
Since producing 300+ BHP is probably going to be less stressful for a 5L engine than a 4.3L, the chances are, it is going to be more reliable, and less likely to fall off tune.
In the Bible, Steve Heath talks about his 4.5 BV Griff, which because of the high level of tune "goes out of tune easily and really needs servicing every 4500 miles with constant oil changes".
Me? I'd prefer a mildly tuned 5L, rather than have to accept the cost and inconvenience of this increased tuning/servicing. But that's just my opinion.
spend said:
It would seem that there are other ways to liberate power than extra displacement or plug on plastic and silicon chips, contrary to the PH gestalt.
Fair point but that's an extra 15% from what is the standard PH package:
srootsey said:
JE DEVELOPMENT HEADS, ACT TRUMPET BASE,REMOVE PRE CATS,218 CRANE CAM THEN TORNADO CHIP. MY 4.3 WITH THAT DONE GOES LIKE STINK.
Sounds like srootsey has a very neat package but it's hard to see where the magical extra power comes from.
Some of the 4.3s seem to be real screamers, with a very high rev range. This gives you good peak power readings, but if you compare the chart over the whole power band you'll see they are way down on torque everywhere. Just because a 4.3 produces the same peak power, doesn't mean it is as fast as the 5.0 in the real world, or as tractible to drive.
Had 4.3lt Chim prior to the Tuscan & before I bought it I drove loads of models 4lt 4.3lt 4.5lt & 5lt & I have to say that the reason I bought the 4.3 was it was the smoothest & best sorted car I found.
It was easily a match for the 4.5lt cars if not quicker but I only drove one 5lt one so comparisons there are difficult but I do know that the car didn't give me any trouble & was fantastic to own & drive.
I'd say buy the best condition one & the one that sings to you & you won't be dissapointed.
Howard.
It was easily a match for the 4.5lt cars if not quicker but I only drove one 5lt one so comparisons there are difficult but I do know that the car didn't give me any trouble & was fantastic to own & drive.
I'd say buy the best condition one & the one that sings to you & you won't be dissapointed.
Howard.
Having owned an older 4.0 litre and now a newer 5.0 I would say go for the 5.0 over the 4.3.
Only because post-97 cars have better, chassis, brakes, cooling as well as updated stuff like switchgear.
It really has to come down to indidual cars, there are some real dogs out there now so beware, a lot of them are cheap for a reason.
Every car is different, get out there and look at lots.
Good luck!
Only because post-97 cars have better, chassis, brakes, cooling as well as updated stuff like switchgear.
It really has to come down to indidual cars, there are some real dogs out there now so beware, a lot of them are cheap for a reason.
Every car is different, get out there and look at lots.
Good luck!
GreenV8S said:
Some of the 4.3s seem to be real screamers, with a very high rev range. This gives you good peak power readings, but if you compare the chart over the whole power band you'll see they are way down on torque everywhere. Just because a 4.3 produces the same peak power, doesn't mean it is as fast as the 5.0 in the real world, or as tractible to drive.
Which is exactly why I would prefer the 4.3 over the 5.0 which IMO has WAY too much and too brutally produced low down torque for the chassis (and being a light two wheel drive sports car on wideish rubber, it will always struggle getting that kind of torque) while OTOH it has the rev range of a diesel engine.
As even a 400 has, in fairness, enough low down grunt to kill you if you're not on your toes, I'd very much prefer the idea of extending the power curve towards the top end if I were in need/desire of 'more'. But then again, I believe that for roadgoing performance cars, it's all in the balance of things. One can have too much of one ingredient in the equation!
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