Discussion
Due to holidays being cancelled etc I am looking to buy a cheap, fun convertible to enjoy as a second car this summer. My budget is around £3500 and I have been looking at MK3 2.0 sport MX5s. I’ve found a few of interest but would like some advice.
Car 1: 06 plate, 75000 miles, part service history. £3650
MOT: Nearside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Offside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Car 2: 55 plate 93500 miles, full history and 3 owners £3295
MOT: Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement arm front and rear bushes perishing (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Upper Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement suspension arm front and rear bushes seperating (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Service brake binding but not excessively slight bind (1.2.1 (f))
Car 3: 06 plate, 115000 miles, full history and 3 owners £2750
MOT: Nearside sill corroded at the rear, rectification recommended.
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Now obviously the price of car 3 is very appealing but the 115000 miles puts me off slightly, as well as the mention of rust. I’ve read a lot of varying opinions on the extent of this type of corrosion as an advisory so not sure what to expect. For all of these how much would I be looking at to sort out the MOT advisories? And would I be better going with a high mileage car with a proven history or a lower one that isn’t complete.
Please feel free to send any other links (reasonable distance from Essex) or ideas of different cars altogether, I’m open to suggestions!
Car 1: 06 plate, 75000 miles, part service history. £3650
MOT: Nearside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Offside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Car 2: 55 plate 93500 miles, full history and 3 owners £3295
MOT: Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement arm front and rear bushes perishing (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Upper Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement suspension arm front and rear bushes seperating (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Service brake binding but not excessively slight bind (1.2.1 (f))
Car 3: 06 plate, 115000 miles, full history and 3 owners £2750
MOT: Nearside sill corroded at the rear, rectification recommended.
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Now obviously the price of car 3 is very appealing but the 115000 miles puts me off slightly, as well as the mention of rust. I’ve read a lot of varying opinions on the extent of this type of corrosion as an advisory so not sure what to expect. For all of these how much would I be looking at to sort out the MOT advisories? And would I be better going with a high mileage car with a proven history or a lower one that isn’t complete.
Please feel free to send any other links (reasonable distance from Essex) or ideas of different cars altogether, I’m open to suggestions!
At this price point buy on condition. I have a 2009 NC with 35k miles of mainly summer use and the rear of the sills had surface rust. In fact the whole rear underside looked rather rusty (although its just surface rust when closely inspected). I've used an angle grinder with wire wheel and treated all the underside with Dinitrol products. All looks nice and black underneath once more.
At face value I would go with car 2, as the the only issues are bolt on bits. Car 1 has the subframe advisory (which yes, it is bolt on, but a big job). Car 3 is likely going to need the sills welding next year.
Thing is, it's just the opinion of the tester on the day. There is no substitute for seeing the car yourself and it's easy to get your hand to the back of the sills.
Also check the panels have the original Mazda hologram stickers, as if they're missing it could be evidence of accident damage. Doors, wings, boot, bonnet, bumper all have a visible sticker
At face value I would go with car 2, as the the only issues are bolt on bits. Car 1 has the subframe advisory (which yes, it is bolt on, but a big job). Car 3 is likely going to need the sills welding next year.
Thing is, it's just the opinion of the tester on the day. There is no substitute for seeing the car yourself and it's easy to get your hand to the back of the sills.
Also check the panels have the original Mazda hologram stickers, as if they're missing it could be evidence of accident damage. Doors, wings, boot, bonnet, bumper all have a visible sticker
It’s likely a couple of ball joints and freeing off a caliper.
Doing it myself Moog ball joints are £20 apiece and some time to ensure the caliper is sliding freely. Looks like you may need a press for the ball joints so a few quid to get a garage to press them in once the arms are off.
Doing it myself Moog ball joints are £20 apiece and some time to ensure the caliper is sliding freely. Looks like you may need a press for the ball joints so a few quid to get a garage to press them in once the arms are off.
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