Fitting GTR headlights
Discussion
Need some help with the above subject. It appears that adjusting the headlight aim is not possible. Also it looks like I'm really going to have to grind on the front clip to fit the turn signals. What have you used to seal the rear head light box to the inside of the front fender.
I'm planning on painting the headlight mounting plate black to prevent it reflecting through the mounting holes. Also plan to mount the perspex with nylon screws to allow for easy replacement, and use a closed cell foam to seal the perspex cover from water.
Appreciate any suggestions.
Ken Wright
I'm planning on painting the headlight mounting plate black to prevent it reflecting through the mounting holes. Also plan to mount the perspex with nylon screws to allow for easy replacement, and use a closed cell foam to seal the perspex cover from water.
Appreciate any suggestions.
Ken Wright
I was doing this at the weekend so I'm not an expert.....
I found that I had to file away a couple of mm for both the indicators and the driving lamp. I guess that Ultima can't get a hole saw that exactly matches the lamp size and they decided to err on making it slightly smaller.
The main beam and sidelight unit didn't seem to need any adjustment of the lamp holes but I did find that the mounting holes needed to be elongated to get the studs in the fibreglass to line up. It seemed better to me to modify the sheet metal lamps than to hack at the holes for the lamps to make them bigger.
As for adjustablity the main beam (on the twin unit) has a sloped mount and a pair of screws that you can undo to move it into one of two alignment positions. I guess that you can get a bit of adjustablity with the strategic use of washers and/or compressing the rubber mounts. I didn't figure there was much I could sensibly do about this until the car was fully finished and the bodywork aligned and on a level surface.
I know what you mean about sealing the headlight backs. I wouldn't want to use anything permanent because Sods Law would indicate that you'll need to change a light, in the dark, in the middle of nowhere with virtually no tools... There's also not much depth to play with. The clearance between the wheel on full lock and the back looks...um...interesting!
OTOH sealing the lamps may not be a good thing. The lamps are not going to get hit by the direct spray of water (unless you reverse very quickly a lot) and if you seal up the enclosure it will just keep what moisture that gets in, in instead of letting it drain out. YMMV.
Would love to know what other folk have done...
I found that I had to file away a couple of mm for both the indicators and the driving lamp. I guess that Ultima can't get a hole saw that exactly matches the lamp size and they decided to err on making it slightly smaller.
The main beam and sidelight unit didn't seem to need any adjustment of the lamp holes but I did find that the mounting holes needed to be elongated to get the studs in the fibreglass to line up. It seemed better to me to modify the sheet metal lamps than to hack at the holes for the lamps to make them bigger.
As for adjustablity the main beam (on the twin unit) has a sloped mount and a pair of screws that you can undo to move it into one of two alignment positions. I guess that you can get a bit of adjustablity with the strategic use of washers and/or compressing the rubber mounts. I didn't figure there was much I could sensibly do about this until the car was fully finished and the bodywork aligned and on a level surface.
I know what you mean about sealing the headlight backs. I wouldn't want to use anything permanent because Sods Law would indicate that you'll need to change a light, in the dark, in the middle of nowhere with virtually no tools... There's also not much depth to play with. The clearance between the wheel on full lock and the back looks...um...interesting!
OTOH sealing the lamps may not be a good thing. The lamps are not going to get hit by the direct spray of water (unless you reverse very quickly a lot) and if you seal up the enclosure it will just keep what moisture that gets in, in instead of letting it drain out. YMMV.
Would love to know what other folk have done...
Great Topic
While I'm a few months away from this stage I have been thinking about it.
One of my thoughts is to mount the perspex covers with stainless flat head machine screws, and using aircraft type plate nuts which are held in by solid rivets. Do not use Rivnuts, because of their propensity to come loose. Plate nuts are available through Aircraft Spruce.
Jack
While I'm a few months away from this stage I have been thinking about it.
One of my thoughts is to mount the perspex covers with stainless flat head machine screws, and using aircraft type plate nuts which are held in by solid rivets. Do not use Rivnuts, because of their propensity to come loose. Plate nuts are available through Aircraft Spruce.
Jack
The back of mine are sealed with an expanding foam tape like you get for the sealing around the radiator.
It doesn't expand as much but it seals reasonably well.
Before you fix the persex covers on please do not forget to drill the drainage holes at the bottom of the headlight front the purpose of which is to prevent condensation filling the from of you headlamp up with water over time!
If you possition them as low as possible you can't see them but be carefull as that they don't then end up the wrong side of the rear covers.
It doesn't expand as much but it seals reasonably well.
Before you fix the persex covers on please do not forget to drill the drainage holes at the bottom of the headlight front the purpose of which is to prevent condensation filling the from of you headlamp up with water over time!
If you possition them as low as possible you can't see them but be carefull as that they don't then end up the wrong side of the rear covers.
Thanks for the tips Andy. Of course there's no mention of the drainage holes in the manual....
Ach. There's nothing like the raw fear of setting about a pristine £5k body with nothing more than a coping saw and a couple of files!!!!
It does look nice though.
Judging by the factory shots this years colour is definitely blue. Been painting bits of mine with black on the back. Its amazing how it thickens up the colour...
quote:
The factory did a fantastic job!
Ach. There's nothing like the raw fear of setting about a pristine £5k body with nothing more than a coping saw and a couple of files!!!!
It does look nice though. Judging by the factory shots this years colour is definitely blue. Been painting bits of mine with black on the back. Its amazing how it thickens up the colour...
You should have several different thickness rubber spacers with your headlight kit. These are used for adjusting purposes. I forget which order you use them in but a quick call to Dave at the factory should answer that question.
As Andy has said, use the expanding foam to seal arround the rear covers.
Best of luck.
Paul
As Andy has said, use the expanding foam to seal arround the rear covers.
Best of luck.
Paul
This is the worst part of the car. The lights are the same 90mm Hellas that I've fitted to another car except the mounting tabs are ground off and the lights are glued to a plate. The plate is bent from the factory. Leaving the mounting tabs in place would have been a very nice way to adjust and mount the lights. No way am I going to use the factory turn signal, too much grinding. I'm going to use a smaller diameter lamp.
Is there no amber running lamp up front other than the turn signal? Is this legal in the USA?
I also plan to reinforce the fiberglass mounting pads in the fender with more fiberglass, they look pretty fragile.
The rest of the car has been so well thought out, this really isn't that bad.
On another note the club newsletter should list that I have a new (no damage, never mounted) set of three piece GTR wheels for sale. They are the factory billet wheels and the rears are 13 inches wide. I'm fitting the car with black mesh wheels from Kinesis.
Ken Wright
Is there no amber running lamp up front other than the turn signal? Is this legal in the USA?
I also plan to reinforce the fiberglass mounting pads in the fender with more fiberglass, they look pretty fragile.
The rest of the car has been so well thought out, this really isn't that bad.
On another note the club newsletter should list that I have a new (no damage, never mounted) set of three piece GTR wheels for sale. They are the factory billet wheels and the rears are 13 inches wide. I'm fitting the car with black mesh wheels from Kinesis.
Ken Wright
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