Fuel tank flow exit - Fuel pipe renewal

[cjrob]

about to take the TVR out for its first run of the year at the weekend I had one of the fuel pipes split in the engine bay, fortunately it happened on the drive so I feel I have had a lucky escape.

I have started to replace the lines this week (only managed two tonight, with large hands its proving difficult)

I am not sure if I have a slightly different tank arrangement as the flow exits straight down, into a banjo connector (accessed by a TVR branded grommet) and then out the standard horizontal exit (where the blue glove is) , this seems different to the other posts and pictures I have researched.

no real issue as I can take off the banjo (once I order a 22mm socket) and replace the fuel pipe much easier this way but interested to see if this is standard?

its a 2000 450 - fairly late in the Chimaera's life span

oh and any advice on getting to the return hose behind the bulkhead is most appreciated, I cant see any way to get at it at the moment

[Steve_D]

I've not seen an outlet like that before so can't advize.
Return you should be able to get to ...just by peeling back the top carpet and working down the front face of the tank. That is always assuming they haven't changed that as well.
Get new washers for the banjo fitting.

Steve

[Zener]

Not seen this set-up either before , I must ask so where's the fuel pump located? don't look external anyway

[cjrob]

the fuel pump and filter are in the standard positions, everything else (bar the banjo bolt) is inline with other cars, ie rubber fuel pipe out and bonded via a hole in the rear, the U-shaped metal pipe over the rear suspension, then a pipe into the fuel pump - very strange

I know we can have quirks between cars, but a totally different fuel tank?

[Zener]

cjrob said:

the fuel pump and filter are in the standard positions, everything else (bar the banjo bolt) is inline with other cars, ie rubber fuel pipe out and bonded via a hole in the rear, the U-shaped metal pipe over the rear suspension, then a pipe into the fuel pump - very strange

I know we can have quirks between cars, but a totally different fuel tank?

Ah yes I see now (bloody phone screen) does the same job I guess never seen one like this even on 2002 later versions if you want a link to decent 5/16 8mm fuel hose , good company to deal with used them on a number of occasions now , FP inlet is 12mm I.D hose http://www.flexiducting.co.uk/products/goodyear-r9...

[O mage]

That is he later tank which is good because it's far easier to change the pick up strainer and makes for a slightly better routing angle of the hose over the wishbone.

[cjrob]

almost finished this but have run into a rather frustrating problem, I have a fuel leak running out of the banjo connector.

I have renewed the large gasket / seal from the tank to the large 55mm outlet and FTFE'd the threads, two new copper washers used on the banjo with PFTE on the threads - torqued to SLT (Slightly F.... Tight) with resulting fuel drip, then torqued to RFT (Really.....) but still have a drip.

first thoughts are the copper washers are to blame, they are exactly the same size as the originals, but for clarity can anybody advise the exact spec ( I believe they are 16mm?)

thanks

[Steve_D]

You could try a 'Dowty' seal type washer which will most likely be aluminium with a rubber lip around the ID.

Another thought is how old are the copper washers? Copper age hardens so if they are old they may not 'crush' as they are intended to to form a proper seal. If they are old you can anneal them with a blow torch. They can be left to cool or quenched either will work.

Also do not use PTFE tape. This tape is designed to seal a thread but in a banjo the leak path is past the washers not along a thread.

Steve

[magpies]

another for Dowty seals

[cjrob]

yeah I went down the rabbit hole of Alu vs copper crush washers last night, then videos on refacing the banjo bolt and coupler to take out any small imperfections.

Washers were bought new, not to say they have been lying around as stock for ages so will try the anneal option (I bought 10 so plenty new spares) and grab some dowty seals just incase

noted on the PTFE tape

[spitfire4v8]

The washers should seal of course but if you are struggling there's a neat trick I have had to employ in the past.

Loctite do several petrol proof sealants which you can employ here.

Very lightly coat the faces of the copper washers with the loctite. Making sure the outlet is aligned exactly where you need it do the banjo bolt up to your preferred version of FT and leave it to set.

hey presto you have one petrol proof sealed set of washers.

[Zener]

Aluminium washers for fuel fittings get my vote , solid ones mind not the hollow crush style , like mentioned no flaws or nicks in the mating faces

[SILICONEKID 357HP]

cjrob said:

about to take the TVR out for its first run of the year at the weekend I had one of the fuel pipes split in the engine bay, fortunately it happened on the drive so I feel I have had a lucky escape.

I have started to replace the lines this week (only managed two tonight, with large hands its proving difficult)

I am not sure if I have a slightly different tank arrangement as the flow exits straight down, into a banjo connector (accessed by a TVR branded grommet) and then out the standard horizontal exit (where the blue glove is) , this seems different to the other posts and pictures I have researched.

no real issue as I can take off the banjo (once I order a 22mm socket) and replace the fuel pipe much easier this way but interested to see if this is standard?

its a 2000 450 - fairly late in the Chimaera's life span

oh and any advice on getting to the return hose behind the bulkhead is most appreciated, I cant see any way to get at it at the moment

[SILICONEKID 357HP]

Zener said:

Not seen this set-up either before , I must ask so where's the fuel pump located? don't look external anyway

That's an after thought ,the original connection was poor ,I removed my tank in the end and I'm surprised that more didnt leak .

[cjrob]

Steve_D said:

You could try a 'Dowty' seal type washer which will most likely be aluminium with a rubber lip around the ID.

Another thought is how old are the copper washers? Copper age hardens so if they are old they may not 'crush' as they are intended to to form a proper seal. If they are old you can anneal them with a blow torch. They can be left to cool or quenched either will work.

Also do not use PTFE tape. This tape is designed to seal a thread but in a banjo the leak path is past the washers not along a thread.

Steve

huge thanks to Steve_D and magpies - Dowty washers installed and no leaks!! gave it a run last night and didn't end up driving a fireball.

replacing the lines have been a right mission, I should of added it to my last winter job list, you live and learn, feel like I am loosing the love for the chim as this is the 3rd time its let me down in 4.5 years (not too bad going I guess) and I have a very short list of potential replacements.

[Mags]

Hi all, I have a leak from the big 55mm nut, I've got a socket coming tomorrow but can anyone tell me what the washer is that seals this nut to the tank?

Thanks

Mags

[bobfather]

Mags said:

Hi all, I have a leak from the big 55mm nut, I've got a socket coming tomorrow but can anyone tell me what the washer is that seals this nut to the tank?

Thanks

Mags

Fuel strainer gasket

https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/cooling...

[Mags]

bobfather said:

Fuel strainer gasket

https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/cooling...

Legend. Many thanks.

[Mags]

Any idea on the torque of the big nut and the banjo fuel pipe that screws into it?
I assume no sealant on the big nut washer?

Thanks
Mags

[bobfather]

The banjo so about 35f/lb, don't add any sealant or lubricant. The big nut is a TVR tight job, just tighten until it feels right but don't overtighten