Post-lockdown travel - the Balkans

[spareparts]

Reposting to start a thread here in case any other bikers have specific questions, especially with regards to covid-travel etc.

Just returned from over 2 weeks in the road. Our original plan was to reach Istanbul, but with Bulgaria and Greece closed (at least when we needed to cross pre-15th) we re-routed! To maximise time down south, we loaded the bikes onto the Motorail and used Austria as the start/finish point. Because of the favourable train arrival/departure times, we only transited Austria and avoided having to quarantine in Austria. The general itinerary was:
Eurotunnel > Germany > motorail > Austria > Italy > Slovenia > Croatia > Serbia > Romania > Serbia > Montenegro > Croatia > Slovenia > Italy > Austria > motorail > Germany > Eurotunnel > home. In all, we covered 4k miles of some of the most diverse and just fantastic roads on and off-road. Bike of choice? The GS. Forget sports tourers. The roads switch from ribbon smooth tarmac to broken, dirt, gravel, mud (or are non-existent), and the ability to switch instantly is nevessary. No other bike I know can carve fast sweepers at 51degrees of lean, navigate broken tarmac along single lane width mountain roads, or go off-road up and down mud/rocks.

I will let the pics do the talking...

Motorail selfie


We headed south and covered 3 days of the Italian Dolomites taking in all the main passes and some very small obscure ones - especially towards the east including the Forcella Lavardet and others.

Timmelsjoch




Passo Gardena




Forcella Lavardet



We covered the Vrsic Pass in Slovenia and headed up to the top of the Mangart. Incredible views.



Crossed the hard border into Serbia and discovered the vast climb of people out of poverty from years of war.





Then to Romania where we would be based in Sibiu for 3 nights days to explore the beautiful country. Must go back as it needs more time.

From local modern machinery...


To the beautiful tourist squares of Sibiu


To the mighty Transfagarasan


The Vidraru Dam where Clarkson and TopGear spent the night


The Transalpina


And the DN66A through Cerna-Sat where it was 100km offroad through some beautiful but also seriously hard ‘3 people to pull the bikes out of the mud’ mountain routes if you didn’t have full offroad knobblies.







But after a whole afternoon of the gravel rocks and mud, it was soon back to this and more 51degrees of lean



We crossed into Serbia where there were derelict factories and remnants of what looked like the Gulag.


Then onto the stunning sweeping roads of Montenegro through amazing gorges, valleys, and varied terrain





On our return, we came up the Adriatic Sea and spent quality time on and off the bikes in Croatia.





We headed to Krka National forest where over 15degrees incline on deep loose rocks defeated us and we spent ages trying to turn back in 30degrees C.


But we made it out and ended the evening at thr Tiki bar on the beach



Heading north through the forests, we set the bavs back for our return to Austria via the Grossglockner




But weather closed in at it was snowing and 1.5C at the top which made it tough going on tyres that were already shagged after over 3k miles of hard riding and were now down to the wear bars.




We loaded up the motorail again and are glad to be home safe and sound. It was an epic trip. So many memories. Still buzzing from sensory overload. Need to decompress a bit, and back to reality!

[V8RX7]

Not a bit jealous

New to touring, so you used the train from UK to Germany ?

How much was that / time taken ?

[Steve Bass]

Looks like a fantastic trip Ade, won't say I'm not jealous

Q for you.....

GS vs GSA... Thoughts?

[black-k1]

That looks like a wonderful trip. I'm glad you had a great trip.

[spareparts]

Steve Bass said:

Looks like a fantastic trip Ade, won't say I'm not jealous

Q for you.....

GS vs GSA... Thoughts?

The variety of riding was what made the trip special. I’ve had a few very short rides on the GSA, and to be honest I’m not a fan. It rides with more comfort than the GS - a combination of the additional static weight, the tank and bar width, and different geometry. The GSA lollops along where the GS is more nimble and sportsbike like in handling. If long distance tarmac cruising at 40% is the rider’s preference, the GSA is a better choice. But if you like to ride fast I think the GS is better. Offroad, the GS is immediately 20kg lighter and narrower. Allan has lots more offroad experience than me and was fine offroad on the GSA. But in the same hands (and with control tyres) the GS > GSA offroad. It is also worth considering the rider size/weight: I am 5’10”, 81kg and reasonably fit - and the GS is perfect. Many GSA riders I’ve seen are >100kg and the GSA fits them better. I don’t think so many of them offroad much if their fitness is lacking. The extra 10L fuel capacity of the GSA is nice, but not necessary imho. Extra weight fully fueled too which does not help.

[Steve Bass]

spareparts said:

The variety of riding was what made the trip special. I’ve had a few very short rides on the GSA, and to be honest I’m not a fan. It rides with more comfort than the GS - a combination of the additional static weight, the tank and bar width, and different geometry. The GSA lollops along where the GS is more nimble and sportsbike like in handling. If long distance tarmac cruising at 40% is the rider’s preference, the GSA is a better choice. But if you like to ride fast I think the GS is better. Offroad, the GS is immediately 20kg lighter and narrower. Allan has lots more offroad experience than me and was fine offroad on the GSA. But in the same hands (and with control tyres) the GS > GSA offroad. It is also worth considering the rider size/weight: I am 5’10”, 81kg and reasonably fit - and the GS is perfect. Many GSA riders I’ve seen are >100kg and the GSA fits them better. I don’t think so many of them offroad much if their fitness is lacking. The extra 10L fuel capacity of the GSA is nice, but not necessary imho. Extra weight fully fueled too which does not help.

Many thanks..

I ask as there's brand new GSA's available from the dealers at around 13.5k GBP equivalent which is not to be overlooked...... Full spec bikes with every option such as Comfort, Touring and Exclusive packages added. Only things like the emergency assist and options like gold wheels for non HP bikes.
Price for the normal GS is around 12.5 K but again, same spec, full house.. so was wondering if the price differential made the A a better option.
Another factor for the GS is the amount of "bits" I have from my previous GS1200 which is substantial. I'm guessing with something like a EZCan auxiliary lights are easy to add.
The weight is a valid point as I have access to hundreds or thousands of KMs of dirt and sand roads and whilst not "hard enduro" type of roads, they're not suitable for a road bike, hence the GS/KTM Adv thinking.....

Cheers

[Salted_Peanut]

That trip looks awesome

[spareparts]

Steve Bass said:

spareparts said:

The variety of riding was what made the trip special. I’ve had a few very short rides on the GSA, and to be honest I’m not a fan. It rides with more comfort than the GS - a combination of the additional static weight, the tank and bar width, and different geometry. The GSA lollops along where the GS is more nimble and sportsbike like in handling. If long distance tarmac cruising at 40% is the rider’s preference, the GSA is a better choice. But if you like to ride fast I think the GS is better. Offroad, the GS is immediately 20kg lighter and narrower. Allan has lots more offroad experience than me and was fine offroad on the GSA. But in the same hands (and with control tyres) the GS > GSA offroad. It is also worth considering the rider size/weight: I am 5’10”, 81kg and reasonably fit - and the GS is perfect. Many GSA riders I’ve seen are >100kg and the GSA fits them better. I don’t think so many of them offroad much if their fitness is lacking. The extra 10L fuel capacity of the GSA is nice, but not necessary imho. Extra weight fully fueled too which does not help.

Many thanks..

I ask as there's brand new GSA's available from the dealers at around 13.5k GBP equivalent which is not to be overlooked...... Full spec bikes with every option such as Comfort, Touring and Exclusive packages added. Only things like the emergency assist and options like gold wheels for non HP bikes.
Price for the normal GS is around 12.5 K but again, same spec, full house.. so was wondering if the price differential made the A a better option.
Another factor for the GS is the amount of "bits" I have from my previous GS1200 which is substantial. I'm guessing with something like a EZCan auxiliary lights are easy to add.
The weight is a valid point as I have access to hundreds or thousands of KMs of dirt and sand roads and whilst not "hard enduro" type of roads, they're not suitable for a road bike, hence the GS/KTM Adv thinking.....

Cheers

The weight of these things is substantial as it is, and the challenge is to counter inertia once they start moving in the wrong direction. Not only the weight, but I find the size of the GSA’s tank more difficult to manoeuvre when static - especially offroad. It’s a heavy lump, and I just don’t see the benefit of the A if using the bike as intended - other than aesthetics - most frequent comment heard about the GSA is that owners prefer the ‘presence’ it visually has on the road... sounds like small penis syndrome if you ask me. Ride them both: see which you prefer. I know another chap who competes every year in the BMW GS Trophy and regularly rides offroad in Africa/Europe. He rides a GSA (given to him gratis) and he finds it fine. Down to rider skill no doubt.

[Chipchap]

Less of the small c0ck syndrome you. I need a GS Adventure just to lug mine around.

[spareparts]

V8RX7 said:

Not a bit jealous

New to touring, so you used the train from UK to Germany ?

How much was that / time taken ?

We rode to Dusseldorf and took the train from there to Innsbruck Austria. It is an overnight and very efficient service that puts you at the start of the good roads the following morning. Departs around 8pm and arrives next morning around 9am. Sleeper carriage overnight. Saves around 1500km riding, time, fatigue, and cost. Worth it imho.

[spareparts]

Chipchap said:

Less of the small c0ck syndrome you. I need a GS Adventure just to lug mine around.

You ride your GSA mighty fine. It is the right bike for you proportionally. Powerfully built director types.

[BobSaunders]

spareparts said:

Steve Bass said:

spareparts said:

The variety of riding was what made the trip special. I’ve had a few very short rides on the GSA, and to be honest I’m not a fan. It rides with more comfort than the GS - a combination of the additional static weight, the tank and bar width, and different geometry. The GSA lollops along where the GS is more nimble and sportsbike like in handling. If long distance tarmac cruising at 40% is the rider’s preference, the GSA is a better choice. But if you like to ride fast I think the GS is better. Offroad, the GS is immediately 20kg lighter and narrower. Allan has lots more offroad experience than me and was fine offroad on the GSA. But in the same hands (and with control tyres) the GS > GSA offroad. It is also worth considering the rider size/weight: I am 5’10”, 81kg and reasonably fit - and the GS is perfect. Many GSA riders I’ve seen are >100kg and the GSA fits them better. I don’t think so many of them offroad much if their fitness is lacking. The extra 10L fuel capacity of the GSA is nice, but not necessary imho. Extra weight fully fueled too which does not help.

Many thanks..

I ask as there's brand new GSA's available from the dealers at around 13.5k GBP equivalent which is not to be overlooked...... Full spec bikes with every option such as Comfort, Touring and Exclusive packages added. Only things like the emergency assist and options like gold wheels for non HP bikes.
Price for the normal GS is around 12.5 K but again, same spec, full house.. so was wondering if the price differential made the A a better option.
Another factor for the GS is the amount of "bits" I have from my previous GS1200 which is substantial. I'm guessing with something like a EZCan auxiliary lights are easy to add.
The weight is a valid point as I have access to hundreds or thousands of KMs of dirt and sand roads and whilst not "hard enduro" type of roads, they're not suitable for a road bike, hence the GS/KTM Adv thinking.....

Cheers

The weight of these things is substantial as it is, and the challenge is to counter inertia once they start moving in the wrong direction. Not only the weight, but I find the size of the GSA’s tank more difficult to manoeuvre when static - especially offroad. It’s a heavy lump, and I just don’t see the benefit of the A if using the bike as intended - other than aesthetics - most frequent comment heard about the GSA is that owners prefer the ‘presence’ it visually has on the road... sounds like small penis syndrome if you ask me. Ride them both: see which you prefer. I know another chap who competes every year in the BMW GS Trophy and regularly rides offroad in Africa/Europe. He rides a GSA (given to him gratis) and he finds it fine. Down to rider skill no doubt.

I bought the GSA TE rallye, as i have small penis syndrome, and basically liked the colour over the other colour options. Plus i could afford it.

I found the GSA gave more weather protection in the rain and less buffeting than the GS in appalling driving rain and 50-60mph gusting side on wind conditions in February when i test rode them back to back. The extra tank allowance allows me to go for 300 miles-ish in one sitting on the road. Which is what i bought it for - i wanted a bike that i could just get on and go anywhere on.

The GSA TE is a considerably stable platform, with considerable luggage capacity (200kg on rear subframe), and the A comes with crash bars, luggage brackets, etc. all as standard. Which if you start totting it all up in aftermarket starts to slightly make man maths sense - e.g. sourcing, buying, fitting.

Further, the bike is an all rounder, performance is not it's focus. Because it is so good at everything and does not excel at anything, apart from being a great bike, it gets labelled as boring.

Personally I have no intention of taking 20k's worth of bike offroad beyond that of a farmers field/track or a fire road - hence the GSA. I applaud you for some of the photos where you were up to the axles. But i would agree, the extra weight might be an arse to stand back up if it goes over, based on my experience of a EXC300, or if you have to give it a shove up a hill. Personally however, i wouldn't be putting myself in that situation if it was just me.

[BobSaunders]

Sharing the GPS route and hotel recommendations?

I like the idea of the motorail, but not the off-road sections.

[spareparts]

BobSaunders said:

Further, the bike is an all rounder, performance is not it's focus. Because it is so good at everything and does not excel at anything, apart from being a great bike, it gets labelled as boring.

After we completed the Cerna-Sat route offroad, we came to a junction and turned left onto ribboned tarmac where we were deep into 6th gear and cranked over through bends. No other bike allows you to go from 1st gear climbing rocks in Enduro Pro mode and wading water to fast road sweepers in total comfort and security as the GS/A. That is performance, and it is hardly boring!

[spareparts]

BobSaunders said:

Sharing the GPS route and hotel recommendations?

I like the idea of the motorail, but not the off-road sections.

Because we were watching border covid news daily, we planned our routes on the hoof. Hotels chosen were all 3* and above. Loads to choose from at this time. GPS routes were all set to avoid motorways, avoid tolls, and allow dirt roads. Some key waypoints to search on GoogleMaps: Cerna-Sat Romania (48.183881, 22.760502), Krka National Forest, Forcella Lavardet, Mangart and Vrsic Pass, P20 Montenegro, M9 Montenegro, P19 Montenegro, M2.3, A8 Croatia, E65 from Starigrad - Rijeka, Breze - Fuzine Croatia, SP123 Italy, SP619 and SS465 to Campolongo Italy, and and and...

[Chipchap]

GSA vs GS on this tour for me.

30l vs 20l made no difference as I fuelled when the 2 x GS's fuelled. So 30 tank gave me zero benefit.

20kg extra in kerb weight was an issue in two or three areas. It capsized twice, both times with the wardrobes on and all my gear in them and at least 20 litres of fuel inside. It was a 2 man job minimum to get it upright. More so as we were pi$$ing ourselves laughing at the stupidity.

The added bulk and being 3rd in the line meant that I was always chasing. This was usually as a result of being last to clear the traffic. Meaning that I was accelerating and decelerating harder then the 2 ahead. This resulted in my front tyre being worn from brand new on day 1 to past the wear bars on the right by Day 11 or 12. Meaning a very ponderous front end on right handers.

The added bulk may also have led to numerous rear end slides from Day 11 onwards too, especially in uphill right handers at or around 95mph at 35 degree lean according to the BMW Connected App. Scary $h!t when it is letting go at both ends fully freighted. This detuned me somewhat.

I rode Spareparts R1250 GS TE Rally HP for perhaps 30 miles up a part of The Dalmatian Coast Highway and found it to be too small for my larger frame, as well as the bars being narrower and lower. It felt like a toy GS compared to my behemoth.

Spareparts is a faster rider than I am whatever we are mounted on. He is also much smoother with long graceful arcs in turns, whereas I arrive at the turns, brake later and harder than him, stress the bike and the tyres and end up in a point and squirt type road riding. Oh and my left toe slider has taken some stress on this trip.

My maximum lean angle achieved was 71 degrees but that one doesn't count as it was lying on its side at the time that was recorded.

Would I swap = No. I like my GSA and it suits my bulk. I am a wee bit short in the leg for a std height one though so should perhaps have bought a factory low frame bike.

With suitable tyres, I would have no qualms about riding her on proper off road stuff. Great all rounder.



Peace & Love

A

[Prof Prolapse]

Great thread and pics.

spareparts said:

This is exactly the sort of thing that people forget adventure bikes are capable of, and why they're brilliant machines if used correctly..