Omega Seamaster - old! Any ideas on model or value?
Discussion
Hi, I have no clue when it comes to watches but I have inherited my dad's Omega and wondered if anybody could advise on what model it is and how much it could be worth.
Not sure on whether to sell or keep yet - I don't wear a watch, it won't fit my sister, we have no boys to pass it down to and leaving it in a drawer again is a waste.
Google is failing me. My dad was given it years ago, and had the back of the case filed smooth as it had an inscription relating to the original owner. Yes, that sounds dodgy I know...
Any ideas on model would be much appreciated!
Not sure on whether to sell or keep yet - I don't wear a watch, it won't fit my sister, we have no boys to pass it down to and leaving it in a drawer again is a waste.
Google is failing me. My dad was given it years ago, and had the back of the case filed smooth as it had an inscription relating to the original owner. Yes, that sounds dodgy I know...
Any ideas on model would be much appreciated!
Looks like a 70s deville although it doesn’t say Seville on it. Perhaps the precursor to those?
https://www.hashtagwatchco.com/products/vintage-om...
https://www.hashtagwatchco.com/products/vintage-om...
Nice beads of rice bracelet.
It isnt a DeVille. If you unscrew the back there will be a number engraved on its inside: something like 166.xxx. The 166 part is generic (1: gents; 6: self-winding centre seconds; 6: water resistant calendar) with the numbers after the type description number identifying the exact model.
It isnt a DeVille. If you unscrew the back there will be a number engraved on its inside: something like 166.xxx. The 166 part is generic (1: gents; 6: self-winding centre seconds; 6: water resistant calendar) with the numbers after the type description number identifying the exact model.
See, I've learnt things there already. Back has no obvious place for my wood chisel, sorry, watch back removal tool, so it looks like the only way to know is to give it to a watch shop who knows what they're doing.
Family decision seems to be 99% sell, but as with all things you first need to know what you're selling.
I have tried wearing it but it's just not my thing - plus it'd get scratched or worse on my wrist!
Thank you again.
Family decision seems to be 99% sell, but as with all things you first need to know what you're selling.
I have tried wearing it but it's just not my thing - plus it'd get scratched or worse on my wrist!
Thank you again.
I think it's a mid to late 70's Seamaster. 
It is not old, kindly refrain from calling anything that hailed from the 1970's "old".
Value (if you can prove it's been serviced in the last couple of years) is around £400, a bit less if not serviced. Sometimes they go for more, sometimes less. The quality of the work on the case back will affect the value. I've never heard of anyone filling an inscription on a stainless back before. You may have a non original case back.
If you're selling, get a good picture of crown, case back (both sides) and very importantly movement. You'll sell more easily and you'll get more for it. Being able to see the state of the movement makes the purchase less of a gamble.
I think the case back should be a screw fit, not a pop fit on a Seamaster. If you post a picture, I'll point you at a cheap case opener, almost certainly one of these
Once inside there will be a calibre number and a serial number on the movement. The serial number will reveal the exact year of manufacture.
I kind of wish I was in a position to make you an offer, it's quite nice and the sort of thing I collect.
It is not old, kindly refrain from calling anything that hailed from the 1970's "old". Value (if you can prove it's been serviced in the last couple of years) is around £400, a bit less if not serviced. Sometimes they go for more, sometimes less. The quality of the work on the case back will affect the value. I've never heard of anyone filling an inscription on a stainless back before. You may have a non original case back.
If you're selling, get a good picture of crown, case back (both sides) and very importantly movement. You'll sell more easily and you'll get more for it. Being able to see the state of the movement makes the purchase less of a gamble.
I think the case back should be a screw fit, not a pop fit on a Seamaster. If you post a picture, I'll point you at a cheap case opener, almost certainly one of these
Once inside there will be a calibre number and a serial number on the movement. The serial number will reveal the exact year of manufacture.
I kind of wish I was in a position to make you an offer, it's quite nice and the sort of thing I collect.
Edited by mikeveal on Friday 14th August 12:29
I don't Mike. It appears to be too small and it comes in a sixties strap box. The BoR bracelet is 18mm and it has been added after purchase and whilst you could buy them from Otto Frei for $50 until about 15yrs ago, they were mostly sold in-period. I will guess 1962-1970 but the photograph is only good enough to rule some models out, and not to confirm its identity.
Anyway, the OP can't be arsed and only wants to sell it...
Anyway, the OP can't be arsed and only wants to sell it...
Honestly, I already have a phone with a clock on. Philistine? Probably 
Back is here - clear filing marks right across it. No obvious means of entry. Thanks for the case opener pointer but I'd be happier taking it to a specialist rather than me having a cack-handed attempt at it #molegrips
Side shot Saturday
Knobby bit. Winder, right?
What's cool about it is you wind it when it's flat but it only starts when you reset the time and push the winder back in. Then when it's running hold to your ear and you can hear... nothing. Unless I'm going deaf (probably!) it's way quieter than i remember cheap watches being. Second hand almost sweeps too, not jerky.
I'm a 1970 model myself. Mechanism stiff but still moving, unless after heavy lifting or excessive lubrication.
Back is here - clear filing marks right across it. No obvious means of entry. Thanks for the case opener pointer but I'd be happier taking it to a specialist rather than me having a cack-handed attempt at it #molegrips
Side shot Saturday
Knobby bit. Winder, right?
What's cool about it is you wind it when it's flat but it only starts when you reset the time and push the winder back in. Then when it's running hold to your ear and you can hear... nothing. Unless I'm going deaf (probably!) it's way quieter than i remember cheap watches being. Second hand almost sweeps too, not jerky.
I'm a 1970 model myself. Mechanism stiff but still moving, unless after heavy lifting or excessive lubrication.
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