Machine polish a kitchen worktop ?

[anonymous-user]

Strange question I know 🤔

I have an imitation corrian effect worktop ( standard worktop material) on the centre island in my kitchen , probably 10’ x 4’ with cutouts and in built drainer etc , so not a worktop that I can easily replace.

It is 10 years old now and has gathered the usual light scratching that is to be expected.
My question is if I bought a DA polisher do you guys who have some experience with these think it would remove some of the scratches ?

[TimmyMallett]

I've used a DA on Slate recently. It was a natural slate hearth that I'd spilt cleaning chemicals on. Bit of googling gave me various grades of polishing pads that are hook and loop. Came up a treat. Took a while though. Probably much quicker using an orbital. Slate needs sealing, not familiar with Corian but you can gloss polish it anyway.



https://www.corian.com/IMG/pdf/k-25298-finishing-a...

Edited by TimmyMallett on Monday 17th August 14:46

[sospan]

Depends how deep the scratches are. You might need to do a wet sanding first ( very fine wet/dry used wet) to remove enough material then polish back. Ordinary polishes might not be coarse enough to start but ok to finish.
I don’t know anything about that worktop material though.
A DA machine would be safer than a straight rotary as DA is gentler.
Try polishes first to test the effectiveness, fine then coarser. Finish with fine.

Edited by sospan on Monday 17th August 21:30

[anonymous-user]

Thanks guys.
What polishes do people use ? Only one I’ve ever used is T Cut.
I understand that there are different types of pads also, is it one to cut and one to polish ?
And any recommendations for a cheapest DA machine ?

Btw, it is just standard worktop material but is a fake stone / granite effect.

[Penelope Stopit]

Imitation, no way

You need to find out what the depth of the finish is before touching it

[C70GT]

We have Black Jewel Corian worktops and chose it for the fact it is a solid surface and can be sanded back and machine polished. 1200 wet and dry used wet with a drop of fairy liquid in the water to aid cutting and then machine polish with Farecla G3 followed by G10 brings it up a treat. Depending on how we feel it can be a satin/semi gloss finish or a wet glass gloss finish. Easy to polish the heavy wear areas to maintain an even look.

[anonymous-user]

As far as I know the worktop finish is 0.7mm thick.
So should be durable enough to polish I think ?
Just realised I’ve got an old section that I could practice on.

[911gone]

I'd be tempted to try polishing an area by hand first to see what results you get.

If you do go down the route of using a DA, make sure you cover the floor because you should use it wet (damp, not sodden) and it will fling polish around.

You are correct in that you use a harder pad for cutting and a softer pad for polishing and finishing.

I'd get a mild compound rather than using t-cut, there is plenty to choose from.

[TimmyMallett]

911gone said:

I'd be tempted to try polishing an area by hand first to see what results you get.

If you do go down the route of using a DA, make sure you cover the floor because you should use it wet (damp, not sodden) and it will fling polish around.

m.

This, and also you are creating a sludge of water, cutting compound, cutting disc and the surface you are abrading. It flings.


10' by 4' is a lot to do by hand and to get a consistent finish you'll probably need to do the lot.