Used bike bargain but not started in years
Discussion
Hi all,
Been offered a good condition 2004 5VY Yamaha R1 for £1000, which seems a bit of a steal really, the caveat being that the bike has been garage stored and hasn't been used at all in around 7 years.
Seems from the pictures that it's mostly fine, with a bit of corrosion on a few of the brake lines and exhaust Y piece only. The bike moves freely in neutral, and assuming the engine turns, which I'll test before buying, can anyone suggest some basic maintenance tasks to get this thing up and running? New fluids are a must for sure, but what else is likely to need sorting?
I've had plenty of cars and bikes before, but never anything that's been sat this long. I have a Yamaha dealer in my town which I've considered taking the bike straight to, an option I'd prefer over doing the work myself but if the price is going to be huge, I have reasonable spanner ability and a good tool kit, so should probably be able to get it working on my own if needed.
Cheers for any input
Been offered a good condition 2004 5VY Yamaha R1 for £1000, which seems a bit of a steal really, the caveat being that the bike has been garage stored and hasn't been used at all in around 7 years.
Seems from the pictures that it's mostly fine, with a bit of corrosion on a few of the brake lines and exhaust Y piece only. The bike moves freely in neutral, and assuming the engine turns, which I'll test before buying, can anyone suggest some basic maintenance tasks to get this thing up and running? New fluids are a must for sure, but what else is likely to need sorting?
I've had plenty of cars and bikes before, but never anything that's been sat this long. I have a Yamaha dealer in my town which I've considered taking the bike straight to, an option I'd prefer over doing the work myself but if the price is going to be huge, I have reasonable spanner ability and a good tool kit, so should probably be able to get it working on my own if needed.
Cheers for any input
Edited by Pebbles167 on Tuesday 18th August 10:49
Having used the lockdown period to bring a Ducati Monster that had been stationary for about 8 years to life, I can tell you a list of what I had to do...
Seized clutch slave cylinder
Seized rear brake caliper
Carbs gummed up with old fuel residue
Fuel tank lines perished
Indicator relays stuck and inoperative
Tyres cracked
Battery replaced
Replaced all fluids and filters
Seized clutch slave cylinder
Seized rear brake caliper
Carbs gummed up with old fuel residue
Fuel tank lines perished
Indicator relays stuck and inoperative
Tyres cracked
Battery replaced
Replaced all fluids and filters
Last year I re-commissioned my BIL's Kawasaki 550 which he rode into his garage 20 years ago and just left ti there.
New tyres, oil change, brake/clutch fluid change, stripped clutch and re-assembled. Basic check over and service. New battery. Drained old fuel from tank and carbs, refilled. General check over, clean and re-grease, etc...
Started bike, a bit lumpy for a few miles as the carbs sucked through fresh petrol and dissolved remnants of old fuel.
MOT'd, all done.
New tyres, oil change, brake/clutch fluid change, stripped clutch and re-assembled. Basic check over and service. New battery. Drained old fuel from tank and carbs, refilled. General check over, clean and re-grease, etc...
Started bike, a bit lumpy for a few miles as the carbs sucked through fresh petrol and dissolved remnants of old fuel.
MOT'd, all done.
That's a bargain price even with it being laid up.
Check and then budget for things like:
Tyres
Wheel bearings
All fluids
Brake lines
Battery
Worth checking the tank isn't full of rust too
From as far as I know the R1s of that vintage don't have any big problems beyond normal maintenance so there shouldn't be any big issues.
I'm not sure but they MAY run an exup valve like some of the earlier bikes and it could be seized but I'd presume it'll throw a fault code on the dash so don't be too alarmed if it does.
Get some pics up
Check and then budget for things like:
Tyres
Wheel bearings
All fluids
Brake lines
Battery
Worth checking the tank isn't full of rust too
From as far as I know the R1s of that vintage don't have any big problems beyond normal maintenance so there shouldn't be any big issues.
I'm not sure but they MAY run an exup valve like some of the earlier bikes and it could be seized but I'd presume it'll throw a fault code on the dash so don't be too alarmed if it does.
Get some pics up
Should be nice and simple. Fresh fuel good battery charge and I'd imagine it'll fire up fairly quick.
It'll definitely need an oil change or 2, I'd put fresh in and change in a couple hundred miles for what it's worth, probably not necessary. It'll nerd new tyres regardless of their condition, they're at least 7 years old more likely 10+. Coolant may as well be changed, definitely fresh brake fluid. I'd budget a suspension refresh and then allow for any sized bearings.
I'd budget around £400 for tyres and fluids then allow £300 for worst case and it needs new bearings all over. Suspension refresh about £2-300? So worst case you'll have a well sorted bike nice and fresh for 2k. Have a look what their going for and see if it's worth your effort. I'd definitely be buying it.
It'll definitely need an oil change or 2, I'd put fresh in and change in a couple hundred miles for what it's worth, probably not necessary. It'll nerd new tyres regardless of their condition, they're at least 7 years old more likely 10+. Coolant may as well be changed, definitely fresh brake fluid. I'd budget a suspension refresh and then allow for any sized bearings.
I'd budget around £400 for tyres and fluids then allow £300 for worst case and it needs new bearings all over. Suspension refresh about £2-300? So worst case you'll have a well sorted bike nice and fresh for 2k. Have a look what their going for and see if it's worth your effort. I'd definitely be buying it.
Thanks a lot for the replies everyone. Glad to see that you've all had various experiences of this.
I'll get it home and take a good look and make a list of jobs from the things you've recommended.
Hopefully should give me a nice little project for a few weeks
Here was the bike around 8 years ago:
And the picture seller sent me from a month ago:
Must say, this model R1 is very nice looking. Would prefer the Lava red, but the grey is pretty decent!
I'll get it home and take a good look and make a list of jobs from the things you've recommended.
Hopefully should give me a nice little project for a few weeks
Here was the bike around 8 years ago:
And the picture seller sent me from a month ago:
Must say, this model R1 is very nice looking. Would prefer the Lava red, but the grey is pretty decent!
Edited by Pebbles167 on Tuesday 18th August 11:00
Absolute steal of a price.
If you take it to a Yamaha dealer they will likely pull your trousers down though.
I'd want to drain and flush the tank which means removing it.
I'd also have the pistons out of the brake calipers for a good clean and looksee. Not a hard job even though they are monoblock.
Check the air filter and replace as necessary. Worst case scenario is you'll have a mouse nest in there.
Check the plugs and replace as necessary. Again a good look over the wiring for mouse damage.
New fluids.
Check chain for stiff links.
New tyres.
New battery.
Check for head bearing adjustment.
Check for play in wheel bearings and rear sprocket carrier.
New fuel and off you go.
If you take it to a Yamaha dealer they will likely pull your trousers down though.
I'd want to drain and flush the tank which means removing it.
I'd also have the pistons out of the brake calipers for a good clean and looksee. Not a hard job even though they are monoblock.
Check the air filter and replace as necessary. Worst case scenario is you'll have a mouse nest in there.
Check the plugs and replace as necessary. Again a good look over the wiring for mouse damage.
New fluids.
Check chain for stiff links.
New tyres.
New battery.
Check for head bearing adjustment.
Check for play in wheel bearings and rear sprocket carrier.
New fuel and off you go.
No one mentioned oil down the plug holes?
Is there something in modern bikes that makes this unnecessary?
For me I'd have tank off, carbs off, soak pilot jets in thinners (remove them first or you will wreck all rubber seals)
Test the carbs for flooding using a remote tank (or is it fuel injected?)
New battery is a given.
I'd turn over a good minute before choke on to get all the oil around the engine then I'd see if she fires up and run for a minute just to check all is ok mechanically - no leaks in rocker, sump, gearbox or clutch. The oil will be no worse than when it was put away give or take a mild bit of aged degradation, 2 more minutes with that oil will make no difference - no big revs. Nothing worse than finding there is a mechanical issue just after an oil change has been carried out.
If she does run ok then I'd do the oil change and filters etc, then try running again.
Tyres are a magic box - all my tyres are more than 10 years old because I do so few miles - one set I think is from 1998 - however they are in excellent condition because of the way I store them etc. No cracks, no loss of stability. I used to race, I know what tyres need to do underneath me.
New brake fluid
New air filter
New plugs
Silicone marine grease on all rubber grommets (it preserves them) while the fairing is coming off.
Can of WD40 works wonders on electrics. Vaseline on connectors when you are putting them back together.
Otherwise you're buying a lottery. May be no issues, or a whole winters worth.
However you will know your bike and learn heaps - plus done right you will enjoy doing it
Is there something in modern bikes that makes this unnecessary?
For me I'd have tank off, carbs off, soak pilot jets in thinners (remove them first or you will wreck all rubber seals)
Test the carbs for flooding using a remote tank (or is it fuel injected?)
New battery is a given.
I'd turn over a good minute before choke on to get all the oil around the engine then I'd see if she fires up and run for a minute just to check all is ok mechanically - no leaks in rocker, sump, gearbox or clutch. The oil will be no worse than when it was put away give or take a mild bit of aged degradation, 2 more minutes with that oil will make no difference - no big revs. Nothing worse than finding there is a mechanical issue just after an oil change has been carried out.
If she does run ok then I'd do the oil change and filters etc, then try running again.
Tyres are a magic box - all my tyres are more than 10 years old because I do so few miles - one set I think is from 1998 - however they are in excellent condition because of the way I store them etc. No cracks, no loss of stability. I used to race, I know what tyres need to do underneath me.
New brake fluid
New air filter
New plugs
Silicone marine grease on all rubber grommets (it preserves them) while the fairing is coming off.
Can of WD40 works wonders on electrics. Vaseline on connectors when you are putting them back together.
Otherwise you're buying a lottery. May be no issues, or a whole winters worth.
However you will know your bike and learn heaps - plus done right you will enjoy doing it
Edited by wsn03 on Tuesday 18th August 13:28
Edited by wsn03 on Tuesday 18th August 13:31
wsn03 said:
No one mentioned oil down the plug holes?
Is there something in modern bikes that makes this unnecessary?
For me I'd have tank off, carbs off, soak pilot jets in thinners (remove them first or you will wreck all rubber seals)
Test the carbs for flooding using a remote tank (or is it fuel injected?)
Its a 5VY it doesn't have carbs.Is there something in modern bikes that makes this unnecessary?
For me I'd have tank off, carbs off, soak pilot jets in thinners (remove them first or you will wreck all rubber seals)
Test the carbs for flooding using a remote tank (or is it fuel injected?)
trickywoo said:
wsn03 said:
No one mentioned oil down the plug holes?
Is there something in modern bikes that makes this unnecessary?
For me I'd have tank off, carbs off, soak pilot jets in thinners (remove them first or you will wreck all rubber seals)
Test the carbs for flooding using a remote tank (or is it fuel injected?)
Its a 5VY it doesn't have carbs.Is there something in modern bikes that makes this unnecessary?
For me I'd have tank off, carbs off, soak pilot jets in thinners (remove them first or you will wreck all rubber seals)
Test the carbs for flooding using a remote tank (or is it fuel injected?)
I would also, having done all mentioned, run it for a while without the fairing. Things will crop up after a few weeks of running, you need to be able to see and access them.
wsn03 said:
Tyres are a magic box - all my tyres are more than 10 years old because I do so few miles - one set I think is from 1998 - however they are in excellent condition because of the way I store them etc. No cracks, no loss of stability. I used to race, I know what tyres need to do underneath me.
Just IMO but I think you would be staggered by the difference in new tyres not just because of age but because of how technology has moved on.Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff