Rapide engine question
Discussion
Hi all.
Recently purchased an Aston Martin Rapide which needs a full engine rebuild. Mine has the AM16 engine build and I’ve found a block for a AM04 from a DB9. I know there are performance differences between the two engines but are the blocks the same?
I’ve been told they are identical but I need to be 100% sure. I’ve been told that the heads are different but the block itself was unchanged.
Would anyone here know for sure? Thanks
Recently purchased an Aston Martin Rapide which needs a full engine rebuild. Mine has the AM16 engine build and I’ve found a block for a AM04 from a DB9. I know there are performance differences between the two engines but are the blocks the same?
I’ve been told they are identical but I need to be 100% sure. I’ve been told that the heads are different but the block itself was unchanged.
Would anyone here know for sure? Thanks
Confirmed that the block is the same. Here is the reply I received just in case others have the same problem in the future:
From 2004 up until the variable valve timing V12 engine at 565 BHP, all V12 blocks can be used on any derivative, but, there’s slight sump and ancillary differences. So, if you dress the bare block with everything from your original motor, that will work out fine.
From 2004 up until the variable valve timing V12 engine at 565 BHP, all V12 blocks can be used on any derivative, but, there’s slight sump and ancillary differences. So, if you dress the bare block with everything from your original motor, that will work out fine.
I would be careful with a block from a 2004 DB9 as some of those have a dreaded tick where the liners wear oval.
Seems to be the ones assembled by Cosworth before it went to Germany.
They are identified AM04-0.......
Just be careful this block doesnt have that problem.
If i needed to replace an engine i would look for a car 2005 onwards written off through bodywork damage, more likely the engine would be ok.
Seems to be the ones assembled by Cosworth before it went to Germany.
They are identified AM04-0.......
Just be careful this block doesnt have that problem.
If i needed to replace an engine i would look for a car 2005 onwards written off through bodywork damage, more likely the engine would be ok.
Edited by paulrog1 on Monday 21st September 09:52
paulrog1 said:
I would be careful with a block from a 2004 DB9 as some of those have a dreaded tick where the liners wear oval.
Seems to be the ones assembled by Cosworth before it went to Germany.
They are identified AM04-0.......
Just be careful this block doesnt have that problem.
If i needed to replace an engine i would look for a car 2005 onwards written off through bodywork damage, more likely the engine would be ok.
Thanks. Was aware of the problem with the early engines, but thought this was due to small end bearings being undersized causing movement on the pistons and causing oval cylinders. I would assume any block from that era (or any era) would need to be bore sized, and possibly have sleeve changed too.Seems to be the ones assembled by Cosworth before it went to Germany.
They are identified AM04-0.......
Just be careful this block doesnt have that problem.
If i needed to replace an engine i would look for a car 2005 onwards written off through bodywork damage, more likely the engine would be ok.
Edited by paulrog1 on Monday 21st September 09:52
I notice you are an engineer so you probably understand this much better than I do. The block is indeed a AM04-0, so a Cosworth engine so not ideal, but my alternative is a block repair of my own block which is less ideal.
Hi Andy
Interesting project. Will follow your channel.
Do you know the cause of the engine failure? What are the symptoms? Does it start etc?
I’m trying to compile a mental database of why these V12s fail - I have an 06 DB9 and am keen to know how common things like primary cat ingestion are.
My feeling is they’re probably less common than they seem due to Internet forums artificially inflating the amount of occurrences.
Any info would be welcome, thanks.
Interesting project. Will follow your channel.
Do you know the cause of the engine failure? What are the symptoms? Does it start etc?
I’m trying to compile a mental database of why these V12s fail - I have an 06 DB9 and am keen to know how common things like primary cat ingestion are.
My feeling is they’re probably less common than they seem due to Internet forums artificially inflating the amount of occurrences.
Any info would be welcome, thanks.
Im not an expert, but my initial thoughts were it was a common problem, but after listening to Aston mechanics the engine failure is not that common. However I suspect my engine suffered low Oil pressure, probably due to a low oil level. The damage was to the two most rear cylinders 6 + 12.
I reckon the muppet who owned the car at the time drove the car with low oil, and that caused the pistons to seize. Now its interesting to note that early in the DB9 life Aston carried out a recall on the engine due to low oil pressure, and the fix was to fit a shorter oil dipstick. This then meant that in order to reach the right level, you have to put in more oil.
Thats what I found in my research anyway. Also worth noting that this was before the Rapide was launched, so pre 2010, but the engine is the same. I also have another theory, but will talk about that in my video because it takes a bit of explaining.
But one advice for anyone with a V12 from this era, check your oil level regularly and don't let it run below the max line. This is really important.
I reckon the muppet who owned the car at the time drove the car with low oil, and that caused the pistons to seize. Now its interesting to note that early in the DB9 life Aston carried out a recall on the engine due to low oil pressure, and the fix was to fit a shorter oil dipstick. This then meant that in order to reach the right level, you have to put in more oil.
Thats what I found in my research anyway. Also worth noting that this was before the Rapide was launched, so pre 2010, but the engine is the same. I also have another theory, but will talk about that in my video because it takes a bit of explaining.
But one advice for anyone with a V12 from this era, check your oil level regularly and don't let it run below the max line. This is really important.
The oil starvation in these engines are because the PCV valves fail and start to pass oil and drops to the airfilters, the air filters in your Rapide should be soaking with oil.
The PCV valves need to be replaced as soon as oil is found on the air filters, or when the sparkplugs/coilpacks are replaced.
I would check the oil level regularly too.
Loads of info on the web regarding the above.
The PCV valves need to be replaced as soon as oil is found on the air filters, or when the sparkplugs/coilpacks are replaced.
I would check the oil level regularly too.
Loads of info on the web regarding the above.
Edited by paulrog1 on Monday 21st September 20:06
paulrog1 said:
The oil starvation in these engines are because the PCV valves fail and start to pass oil and drops to the airfilters, the air filters in your Rapide should be soaking with oil.
The PCV valves need to be replaced as soon as oil is found on the air filters, or when the sparkplugs/coilpacks are replaced.
I would check the oil level regularly too.
Loads of info on the web regarding the above.
Correct on the PCV, but I would say the valves need to be replaced as per the maintenance schedule (which I can't remember). The PCV valves need to be replaced as soon as oil is found on the air filters, or when the sparkplugs/coilpacks are replaced.
I would check the oil level regularly too.
Loads of info on the web regarding the above.
Edited by paulrog1 on Monday 21st September 20:06
My car i suspect never had them changed, and yes, my RH Air Filter was more like a secondary oil filter as a result!
I added an oil pressure sensor and temperature sensor to the LH head (opposite the oil pressure idiot light sensor on the RH). It took us 2 tries to get the oil pressure/main bearing clearances correct but now I have valid oil pressure and a way to know for sure. It also takes about 10 minutes of light driving to get the oil up to temperature and the pressure down to proper levels. I think much of the accelerated wear could be attributed to spirited use prior to proper warm up.
I would also not recommend reusing the oil heater/cooler as the baffels will be full of metal junk from the grenaded engine. They are impossible to completely remove and it only takes one flake to clog an oil passage and wipe a bearing.
I would also not recommend reusing the oil heater/cooler as the baffels will be full of metal junk from the grenaded engine. They are impossible to completely remove and it only takes one flake to clog an oil passage and wipe a bearing.
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