Meta M99 T2 Siren

[ChrisW500]

Hi All

Couple of things on this alarm / immobiliser please...

Firstly my siren does not work so have removed it for the moment ... what a job that is!

So firstly can you check the siren off the car and how?

Secondly does anyone one have a working siren in exchange for some beer tokens (Assume they are a generic and not coded to each car / system?)

Thanks

Chris

[spitfire4v8]

I have a brand new siren on the shelf bought in many years ago for a customer but didn't get fitted. Not sure if it's the same as yours .. it has a sticker on the back with :

SC1 T2
SELF POWERING CODED ELECTRONIC SIREN

If that is the same as yours let me know.

It has a bracket and some wiring with it too.

[ChrisW500]

hi Spitfire well here is the one taken off not working:



and



Assume that from your description that they are coded to each system? If so not sure what my options are!

Chris

[Penelope Stopit]

Commented to a similar topic in June https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=18...

Mr Jenks post, 4 posts down proved that the alarm is in no way coded to the siren

Any battery backup siren should do the job

[Penelope Stopit]

Mmmm, not so sure now



Sent you a PM, email me and will email you the file that contains the above info and much more

[Loubaruch]

From memory it depends on which Meta version alarm/immobiliser you have. I know when I updated the original Meta my old Siren would not work with the newer version. I had to buy a compatible one.

[Penelope Stopit]

Loubaruch said:

From memory it depends on which Meta version alarm/immobiliser you have. I know when I updated the original Meta my old Siren would not work with the newer version. I had to buy a compatible one.

OP topic title is Meta M99 T2 (no mention of a version)

M99T2 Operator Instructions (no mention of a version)

See 6. Vehicle battery disconnection detection

ARMING YOUR SYSTEM : Pressing the hand held transmitter for up to two seconds, whilst your system is
in the disarmed condition will arm the system. Two flashes of the hazard lights and the locking of the vehicle
central door locking will confirm this. The system LED will also begin to flash. During the first 25 seconds of
the arming or partial arming condition, it is possible to test the various alarm triggers by deliberately activating
them one at a time. A brief flash of the hazard light circuit will indicate confirmation that the respective input
has been received. The following protection is now in place :
1. The vehicle is immobilised 2. Door open detection3. Boot/bonnet open detection
4. Ignition hot wire detection 5. Internal movement sensor
6. Vehicle battery disconnection detection
If any of the above are activated after the arming period has elapsed, the siren will sound and the hazard
lights will flash for a 30 second period

[ChrisW500]

Ok thanks, well my system is arming and disarming as it should with the indicators flashing in each position as it should with doors locking and unlocking etc.if you attempt to open the doors in the armed state the alarm initiates with a 30 second flashing but no siren hence my problem. Is there anyway I can test the siren on the bench by say injecting 12v into it on the correct pins?

[Penelope Stopit]

Did you read the above table ?

Includes the following



Is very difficult to prove without a siren and alarm but, looks like, battery back-up siren sounds on battery disconnection and very likely sounds on alarm disconnection, will struggle testing the Bus Command

You could pull it apart and check the battery/batteries and speaker

Perhaps something like below image

[s p a c e m a n]

Trigger the alarm so that the siren should be sounding and test the loom to see if you've got 12v anywhere?

Then fit a train horn if you do

[spitfire4v8]

If they are coded together then the best route would be to contact someone like abacus and get them to sort it. I don't get involved with things like alarms so can't give you any definitive answers sorry.

[Loubaruch]

Spitfire looking back at my notes I believe your siren is from the older Meta M36 alarm

The M99T2 is a later version alarm and I believe the OP will need a compatible siren but as you say to be 100% sure contact Abacus.

I have now updated my system to a Toad Sterling 1 and have found it far better, bigger relays to cope with heavier currents, boot opening with a small

modification, much greater range and considerably less costly than the Meta replacement.

[ChrisW500]

So just for completeness I put the alarm into active mode by locking the car then opening the bonnet which has a micro switch on it for the alarm. On testing at the siren socket (4 pins) on the car and as advised using an analog meter I was able to detect a fluttering DC voltage of between 2-5v between pins 2 and 3 clearly this seems to be some sort of control signal to the siren so as mentioned they do need to be coded to the car/system. So until I can find a replacement system I will use as present. Thanks all for advice and to Penelope for the mailed info!

[Penelope Stopit]

Nicely proven