Discussion
Ello all.
I'm wanting to beam wifi 200m to my drive at gates (not as yet installed!). The gate entry systems seem better when wifi based as opposed to 4G based, apps, possible video and can be viewed from anywhere. Might be the option I take.
I gather that this is quite easy. I think I have line of sight year round haha. Well I'm pretty sure I do from my roof anyhow.
Online points me towards Ubiquiti. I find their website hopeless and after emailing them, they won't make personal recommendations.
Now the catch is that ideally the gate end will be running off of 12v/ 24v as the gates will be a solar setup. No power down there.
I'm happy to put a bigger solar panel in and some bugger batteries, but the lowest powered setup possible will help.
As for the house, I can easily run ethernet to the transmitter on the roof. I have recently bought a POE switch, which although not actually setup yet and is still in the box, the option is there.
The house is in a state of renovation, so I can hopefully make things work.
David
Can anyone point me in the right direction.
I'm wanting to beam wifi 200m to my drive at gates (not as yet installed!). The gate entry systems seem better when wifi based as opposed to 4G based, apps, possible video and can be viewed from anywhere. Might be the option I take.
I gather that this is quite easy. I think I have line of sight year round haha. Well I'm pretty sure I do from my roof anyhow.
Online points me towards Ubiquiti. I find their website hopeless and after emailing them, they won't make personal recommendations.
Now the catch is that ideally the gate end will be running off of 12v/ 24v as the gates will be a solar setup. No power down there.
I'm happy to put a bigger solar panel in and some bugger batteries, but the lowest powered setup possible will help.
As for the house, I can easily run ethernet to the transmitter on the roof. I have recently bought a POE switch, which although not actually setup yet and is still in the box, the option is there.
The house is in a state of renovation, so I can hopefully make things work.
David
Can anyone point me in the right direction.
Look at a pair of Ubiquiti Airmax Nanostation Loco AC for your WiFi bridge. The 'station' receiver can run on 24v passive PoE, so you 'should' be able to power it from your solar power, however you'll need to do some research to find out how.
Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 07:11
megaphone said:
Look at a pair of Ubiquiti Airmax Nanostation Loco AC for your WiFi bridge. The 'station' receiver can run on 24v passive PoE, so you 'should' be able to power it from your solar power, however you'll need to do some research to find out how.
I assume you can get POE power adapters? Rather than having to run via a mini switch?Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 07:11
I'll look up that product.
Gingerbread Man said:
megaphone said:
Look at a pair of Ubiquiti Airmax Nanostation Loco AC for your WiFi bridge. The 'station' receiver can run on 24v passive PoE, so you 'should' be able to power it from your solar power, however you'll need to do some research to find out how.
I assume you can get POE power adapters? Rather than having to run via a mini switch?Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 07:11
I'll look up that product.
https://www.moxa.com/en/products/accessories/poe-a...
The Nanostation 5AC says it supports 802.3af and the linked POE injector above also supports that. Not all Ubiquiti stuff does support 802.3af though so please check carefully (the Loco 5AC doesn't, for example). The Ubiquiti community forum is quite active so you may get your answers asking on there, someone else must have done this before.
Yes sorry, didn't mention the Loco AC do not come with a PoE power supply, easy to get on eBay for £5-10. They will run off 24v passive only, not 802.3 48v.
The problem you'll have is at the station end, the PoE injectors are 230v in, so you'll need to find a way of powering it directly with 24v DC and getting a LAN connection for your gate control.
Does the gate control actually have built in WiFi? If so you may get away with just an access point firing at the gate, rather than a full on wifi bridge.
The problem you'll have is at the station end, the PoE injectors are 230v in, so you'll need to find a way of powering it directly with 24v DC and getting a LAN connection for your gate control.
Does the gate control actually have built in WiFi? If so you may get away with just an access point firing at the gate, rather than a full on wifi bridge.
Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 17:52
Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 17:54
megaphone said:
The problem you'll have is at the station end, the PoE injectors are 230v in, so you'll need to find a way of powering it directly with 24v DC and getting a LAN connection for your gate control.
The link I posted above takes 24/48v in to provide POE out. Not exactly cheap though at £130-150 if you then need to add on a Ubiquiti instant POE thingy to convert the POE standard then it's getting quite expensive. Probably easier and cheaper to run mains and ethernet cables in a trench to the gate then no need for any wifi kit and you have cables for lights, powered gate, CCTV, intercom or anything else you might need or want.
megaphone said:
Yes sorry, didn't mention the Loco AC do not come with a PoE power supply, easy to get on eBay for £5-10. They will run off 24v passive only, not 802.3 48v.
The problem you'll have is at the station end, the PoE injectors are 230v in, so you'll need to find a way of powering it directly with 24v DC and getting a LAN connection for your gate control.
Does the gate control actually have built in WiFi? If so you may get away with just an access point firing at the gate, rather than a full on wifi bridge.
Still looking at the options, but I believe that some do have wifi built in. The problem you'll have is at the station end, the PoE injectors are 230v in, so you'll need to find a way of powering it directly with 24v DC and getting a LAN connection for your gate control.
Does the gate control actually have built in WiFi? If so you may get away with just an access point firing at the gate, rather than a full on wifi bridge.
Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 17:52
Edited by megaphone on Friday 2nd October 17:54
So if that's the case. If I beam one down to it, I only need to send it from the house if the gate control will pick it up. Not looking too expensive really.
I just need a gate control to run on low voltage?
I assumed I needed a transmitter and receiver.
I have some experience here as we run an owl nest box camera about 170 metres up the field from the house. Nest box set up is solar powered.
The setup at the bird box end is:
300w solar panel
Ubiquiti Sunmax Solarpoint charge controller
Ubiquiti Outdoor AP
2 Ubiquiti cameras (G3 micro and a G4 Pro)
2 x 80Ah lead acid batteries.
At the house end I have a Ubiquiti outdoor AP with a f
k off 23 db bat wing aerial stick on the chimney. Gives the chimney a bit of a telecom tower aesthetic, but I think it’s cool. Especially the blue LED ....
It works - 150 Mbit up, 80 Mbit down, rock solid connection. I’ve got Wifi a lot further than the owl box with a decent device - e.g. my iipad can hold a flaky connection to the house at a distance of about 350 metres.
So, things to think about.
1)Power. Gates and cameras will pull a remarkable amount of power. I started with a 150W panel - not nearly enough. The 300 W one has been perfect through the summer, but with the current rain predicted over the next 4 days, the charge controller is saying that the batteries will be at 50% by Thursday - but apparently it will be sunny on Thursday so it will be fine. I think winter will still be a challenge.
2) If you’re going to do power at the far end, the solarpoint controller is really good. It’s a bit flaky - e.g. switching the 24 supply will occasionally make mine reboot, but it works. It will do clever stuff like disabling POE ports as the volatage drops, and you can connect remotely to it to see what is going on, It only charges at 10A or so, but that is enough. Not killing your batteries is important as it get expensive, fast.
3) You might be able to do it straight from the house, especially if you can put the brains of the gates closer to the house, but if you want cameras at the far end, you’ll need some sort of switch, with the Solarpoint has.
IMO if you have ubiquit kit already, it is a no brainer. We do have their CCTV and networking already, so it was an easy choice,
The setup at the bird box end is:
300w solar panel
Ubiquiti Sunmax Solarpoint charge controller
Ubiquiti Outdoor AP
2 Ubiquiti cameras (G3 micro and a G4 Pro)
2 x 80Ah lead acid batteries.
At the house end I have a Ubiquiti outdoor AP with a f
k off 23 db bat wing aerial stick on the chimney. Gives the chimney a bit of a telecom tower aesthetic, but I think it’s cool. Especially the blue LED ....It works - 150 Mbit up, 80 Mbit down, rock solid connection. I’ve got Wifi a lot further than the owl box with a decent device - e.g. my iipad can hold a flaky connection to the house at a distance of about 350 metres.
So, things to think about.
1)Power. Gates and cameras will pull a remarkable amount of power. I started with a 150W panel - not nearly enough. The 300 W one has been perfect through the summer, but with the current rain predicted over the next 4 days, the charge controller is saying that the batteries will be at 50% by Thursday - but apparently it will be sunny on Thursday so it will be fine. I think winter will still be a challenge.
2) If you’re going to do power at the far end, the solarpoint controller is really good. It’s a bit flaky - e.g. switching the 24 supply will occasionally make mine reboot, but it works. It will do clever stuff like disabling POE ports as the volatage drops, and you can connect remotely to it to see what is going on, It only charges at 10A or so, but that is enough. Not killing your batteries is important as it get expensive, fast.
3) You might be able to do it straight from the house, especially if you can put the brains of the gates closer to the house, but if you want cameras at the far end, you’ll need some sort of switch, with the Solarpoint has.
IMO if you have ubiquit kit already, it is a no brainer. We do have their CCTV and networking already, so it was an easy choice,
rxe said:
I have some experience here as we run an owl nest box camera about 170 metres up the field from the house. Nest box set up is solar powered.
The setup at the bird box end is:
300w solar panel
Ubiquiti Sunmax Solarpoint charge controller
Ubiquiti Outdoor AP
2 Ubiquiti cameras (G3 micro and a G4 Pro)
2 x 80Ah lead acid batteries.
At the house end I have a Ubiquiti outdoor AP with a fk off 23 db bat wing aerial stick on the chimney. Gives the chimney a bit of a telecom tower aesthetic, but I think it’s cool. Especially the blue LED ....
It works - 150 Mbit up, 80 Mbit down, rock solid connection. I’ve got Wifi a lot further than the owl box with a decent device - e.g. my iipad can hold a flaky connection to the house at a distance of about 350 metres.
So, things to think about.
1)Power. Gates and cameras will pull a remarkable amount of power. I started with a 150W panel - not nearly enough. The 300 W one has been perfect through the summer, but with the current rain predicted over the next 4 days, the charge controller is saying that the batteries will be at 50% by Thursday - but apparently it will be sunny on Thursday so it will be fine. I think winter will still be a challenge.
2) If you’re going to do power at the far end, the solarpoint controller is really good. It’s a bit flaky - e.g. switching the 24 supply will occasionally make mine reboot, but it works. It will do clever stuff like disabling POE ports as the volatage drops, and you can connect remotely to it to see what is going on, It only charges at 10A or so, but that is enough. Not killing your batteries is important as it get expensive, fast.
3) You might be able to do it straight from the house, especially if you can put the brains of the gates closer to the house, but if you want cameras at the far end, you’ll need some sort of switch, with the Solarpoint has.
IMO if you have ubiquit kit already, it is a no brainer. We do have their CCTV and networking already, so it was an easy choice,
None of their kit currently unfortunately. But it looks good. The setup at the bird box end is:
300w solar panel
Ubiquiti Sunmax Solarpoint charge controller
Ubiquiti Outdoor AP
2 Ubiquiti cameras (G3 micro and a G4 Pro)
2 x 80Ah lead acid batteries.
At the house end I have a Ubiquiti outdoor AP with a f
k off 23 db bat wing aerial stick on the chimney. Gives the chimney a bit of a telecom tower aesthetic, but I think it’s cool. Especially the blue LED ....It works - 150 Mbit up, 80 Mbit down, rock solid connection. I’ve got Wifi a lot further than the owl box with a decent device - e.g. my iipad can hold a flaky connection to the house at a distance of about 350 metres.
So, things to think about.
1)Power. Gates and cameras will pull a remarkable amount of power. I started with a 150W panel - not nearly enough. The 300 W one has been perfect through the summer, but with the current rain predicted over the next 4 days, the charge controller is saying that the batteries will be at 50% by Thursday - but apparently it will be sunny on Thursday so it will be fine. I think winter will still be a challenge.
2) If you’re going to do power at the far end, the solarpoint controller is really good. It’s a bit flaky - e.g. switching the 24 supply will occasionally make mine reboot, but it works. It will do clever stuff like disabling POE ports as the volatage drops, and you can connect remotely to it to see what is going on, It only charges at 10A or so, but that is enough. Not killing your batteries is important as it get expensive, fast.
3) You might be able to do it straight from the house, especially if you can put the brains of the gates closer to the house, but if you want cameras at the far end, you’ll need some sort of switch, with the Solarpoint has.
IMO if you have ubiquit kit already, it is a no brainer. We do have their CCTV and networking already, so it was an easy choice,
The gates come as a bundle setup typically. Normally only use 2x 9ah batteries and that's meant to be good for 50 opens or something silly.
We emigrated to Oz, so there's more sunny days that dull. The gates in constant sun.
The gates will only use power really when the buttons pressed. Hopefully the controllers can go into a low power state, but I thought about beefing up the solar panel and the batteries to compensate.
Does your camera run live or time lapse? I guess 24/7?
Hopefully again the video link/ intercom (bar a backlit set of buttons) will stay in a standby mode untill needed.
If you’re in Oz, then you don’t need to worry about power....
Given that you’ve got the place in pieces anyway. I’d seriously think about a trench to the gate for power at a minimum.
Are the gate kits really WiFi, or some 900 MHz thing?
Our cameras are on 24x7 - but they go off to protect the batteries if the voltage drops to about 60% SoC.
Given that you’ve got the place in pieces anyway. I’d seriously think about a trench to the gate for power at a minimum.
Are the gate kits really WiFi, or some 900 MHz thing?
Our cameras are on 24x7 - but they go off to protect the batteries if the voltage drops to about 60% SoC.
rxe said:
If you’re in Oz, then you don’t need to worry about power....
Given that you’ve got the place in pieces anyway. I’d seriously think about a trench to the gate for power at a minimum.
Are the gate kits really WiFi, or some 900 MHz thing?
Our cameras are on 24x7 - but they go off to protect the batteries if the voltage drops to about 60% SoC.
Gate kits don't include fancy openers. You just spec a push button, key pad, card system to open. I looked at the 3G systems, but I noticed that the phone app/ web based systems for gate entry were a lot mor feature rich. So if I can get the wifi down there, I open up a better interface.Given that you’ve got the place in pieces anyway. I’d seriously think about a trench to the gate for power at a minimum.
Are the gate kits really WiFi, or some 900 MHz thing?
Our cameras are on 24x7 - but they go off to protect the batteries if the voltage drops to about 60% SoC.
A 200m odd trench will cost a bit, big cable, getting into the power box.
Worse case I can get a long range opener for the gate and a phone system which when the given number is rung, the gate opens. But I liked the cleverer systems.
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