Engine mount checking condition
Discussion
Just fitting new manifolds and noticed that the y piece is touching the diaganol crossmember where it routes though to the exhaust. I'm wondering if this could be caused by worn engine mounts causing the engine to sag. No idea on the age of the existing mounts, but visually they look OK with no obvious cracking in the rubber. Are there any other checks I can do to confirm if this is the problem.
As a basic guide look through your wheel arches and your manifolds should clear the top rails by about 8/12 mm along there length.
I’d leave all manifold bolts just nipped or loose in the heads until I fit Y piece and am happy with the fit then starting at the back fully tighten manifold bolts systematically keeping an eye on gap etc.
Loose they cam be made to move up a few mm when positioning which translates to 8-10 mm at Y end.
Hope that helps
I’d leave all manifold bolts just nipped or loose in the heads until I fit Y piece and am happy with the fit then starting at the back fully tighten manifold bolts systematically keeping an eye on gap etc.
Loose they cam be made to move up a few mm when positioning which translates to 8-10 mm at Y end.
Hope that helps
Classic Chim said:
As a basic guide look through your wheel arches and your manifolds should clear the top rails by about 8/12 mm along there length.
I’d leave all manifold bolts just nipped or loose in the heads until I fit Y piece and am happy with the fit then starting at the back fully tighten manifold bolts systematically keeping an eye on gap etc.
Loose they cam be made to move up a few mm when positioning which translates to 8-10 mm at Y end.
Hope that helps
Alun you have been on these forums way too long I’d leave all manifold bolts just nipped or loose in the heads until I fit Y piece and am happy with the fit then starting at the back fully tighten manifold bolts systematically keeping an eye on gap etc.
Loose they cam be made to move up a few mm when positioning which translates to 8-10 mm at Y end.
Hope that helps
what he said ^ 
if this cant be achieved or visual inspection says they are split or rotten (you need to check all four sides) then they are junk The new manifolds are the performance manifolds from ACT. Id be very surprised if there was a fabrication error on these as they are made on a jig.
There is plenty of clearance to the chassis rails, although the drivers side is noticabley closer. From memory the old manifolds, which are wider at the precat section, did run very close to the rails. One other thing that may also indicate shot engine mounts is that the exhaust bracket the bolts to the block has never fit on my car as it can't be bolted up without fouling the lower crossmenber.
I'm going to have one more go at loosenning all the bolts and retightening, whith the y piece jacked up slightly from underneath, to see if I can get any clearance,.
In the meantime I think its probably wise to order a set of engine mounts. Are the sc power ones worth the money?
There is plenty of clearance to the chassis rails, although the drivers side is noticabley closer. From memory the old manifolds, which are wider at the precat section, did run very close to the rails. One other thing that may also indicate shot engine mounts is that the exhaust bracket the bolts to the block has never fit on my car as it can't be bolted up without fouling the lower crossmenber.
I'm going to have one more go at loosenning all the bolts and retightening, whith the y piece jacked up slightly from underneath, to see if I can get any clearance,.
In the meantime I think its probably wise to order a set of engine mounts. Are the sc power ones worth the money?
angus337 said:
The new manifolds are the performance manifolds from ACT. Id be very surprised if there was a fabrication error on these as they are made on a jig.
There is plenty of clearance to the chassis rails, although the drivers side is noticabley closer. From memory the old manifolds, which are wider at the precat section, did run very close to the rails. One other thing that may also indicate shot engine mounts is that the exhaust bracket the bolts to the block has never fit on my car as it can't be bolted up without fouling the lower crossmenber.
I'm going to have one more go at loosenning all the bolts and retightening, whith the y piece jacked up slightly from underneath, to see if I can get any clearance,.
In the meantime I think its probably wise to order a set of engine mounts. Are the sc power ones worth the money?
Angus loosen the bolts and rock the engine in the cradle so to speak There is plenty of clearance to the chassis rails, although the drivers side is noticabley closer. From memory the old manifolds, which are wider at the precat section, did run very close to the rails. One other thing that may also indicate shot engine mounts is that the exhaust bracket the bolts to the block has never fit on my car as it can't be bolted up without fouling the lower crossmenber.
I'm going to have one more go at loosenning all the bolts and retightening, whith the y piece jacked up slightly from underneath, to see if I can get any clearance,.
In the meantime I think its probably wise to order a set of engine mounts. Are the sc power ones worth the money?
to equalise the clearance on the top rails Alun mentions 
you'd be surprised at the available movement no need loose the engine brackets to block obviously 
Zener said:
Angus loosen the bolts and rock the engine in the cradle so to speak to equalise the clearance on the top rails Alun mentions you'd be surprised at the available movement no need loose the engine brackets to block obviously
Do you mean the maniold bolts or the bolts from the engine mounrpts to the engine block brackets? to equalise the clearance on the top rails Alun mentions you'd be surprised at the available movement no need loose the engine brackets to block obviously I've already tried loosening the manifold bolts to try and adjust the manifold position a couple of times with out success, but epwas going to try again with the y piece section jacked up to clear the chassis.
angus337 said:
Zener said:
Angus loosen the bolts and rock the engine in the cradle so to speak to equalise the clearance on the top rails Alun mentions you'd be surprised at the available movement no need loose the engine brackets to block obviously
Do you mean the maniold bolts or the bolts from the engine mounrpts to the engine block brackets? to equalise the clearance on the top rails Alun mentions you'd be surprised at the available movement no need loose the engine brackets to block obviously I've already tried loosening the manifold bolts to try and adjust the manifold position a couple of times with out success, but epwas going to try again with the y piece section jacked up to clear the chassis.
Might be a stupid response but could this be due to the engine mount spacer plates being missing? Took my car to RT racing a while back and they noted my engine didn't sit level because there are supposed to be metal spacers on the engine mounts that my car had lost at some point, causing the engine to sit slightly diagonal.
Only one spacer generally on the O/S only Shed TVR if things are as they should be some owners have used slim spacers to push motor higher however but this may just be an Elastoplast type cure for sagging mountings 
Angus I meant chassis to rubber mountings and mountings to brackets fasteners
Angus I meant chassis to rubber mountings and mountings to brackets fasteners 
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff