FJR1300 as a mile muncher

[RemaL]

So thinking I may go the touring route for a second bike next year I don't want something to common like the Tracer 900GT I've test rode (which was very good) and hearing lots of good things about the FJR1300.

I've not seem many about when i've toured, it's been mostly BMW GS Charlie and Ewan look alikes.
if I go the touring second bike it would need comfort, heated ass and hand mode good wind protection and engine able to rack up the miles.


Anyone have a FJR? any good or bad things to look into. What options and mods have you got and recommend?

I was hoping to be able to get a bike I can do 500+ miles a day and enjoy myself on the bike without discomfort of a sports bike.

[zzrman]

The FJR 1300 is an old design but I understand that its a very competent sport tourer - the French motorcycle police use them a lot. I imagine that you can pick one up fairly cheaply. Worth looking at. The BMW K1300S is a good alternative and probably a lot more up to date than the Yamaha, even if they haven't made any since 2017.

[Iminquarantine]

Stunning bike. Shed loads of power (for at tourer at least, there are plenty of sport bikes with more power). Will eat miles. Luggage looks good. They were updated in 2017 with a 6-speed gearbox and slipper clutch (actually I think there was a '17 update then a '18 update). The older bikes are 5 speed. I don't think you really even need to mess with it other than to put a GPS on it. You will be doing your 500 miles in a day and feeling like doing another 500 the next day. The only downside is the near 300kg weight if you are riding it around town.

There are a few around with an auto-clutch, though I have never seen one of those in the flesh.

There is a big FJR thread over on advrider.com which should tell you everything you need to know.

Edited by Iminquarantine on Thursday 15th October 21:00

[sociopath]

I bought one when they first came out. Awesome bike, rode from east london to lands end in a day, stopping purely to fill up with fuel.

Got off without an ache.

I'm guessing they've been superceded in the intervening years (my last bike, a bmw adventure, was equally awesome) but for what they were designed for you wont go wrong. They are big though, if you're of smaller dimensions they can be a challenge

[XSRay900]

Electric up and down screen is nice to use. I'll be looking to buy one in the new year.

[Rubin215]

Yeah, pretty damn good bike.

Maintenance issues are fairly minor apart from the rear suspension linkage which is a total pain in the tits.

Cheap as chips for what they are, high mileage isn't a worry with regular oil changes.

If you like the way it looks and it's comfy when you sit on it then buy one; you won't regret it.

[black-k1]

Good solid bikes that can easily munch miles. As said above, they're older technology but great at doing what they were designed to do.

However, I'd suggest they're closer to the touring end of sports touring. If you plan on mostly solo riding and want something a little sportier then I'd suggest looking at the K1300S, ZZR1400 or the Hayabusa.

[zzrman]

black-k1 said:

Good solid bikes that can easily munch miles. As said above, they're older technology but great at doing what they were designed to do.

However, I'd suggest they're closer to the touring end of sports touring. If you plan on mostly solo riding and want something a little sportier then I'd suggest looking at the K1300S, ZZR1400 or the Hayabusa.

Or your H2!

[Max5476]

I started looking at an FJR1300 as my next bike, but concluded the R1200RT (or R1250RT) was the better choice.

Primarily because of the lower weight with the BMW and the better economy. It depends how much you value the power.

If you don't mind the looks the Triumph Trophy is worth a look - it's got a great chassis and engine, all the toys (heated seat, grips, electric screen, cruise) and is cheap compared to the rest.

[black-k1]

zzrman said:

black-k1 said:

Good solid bikes that can easily munch miles. As said above, they're older technology but great at doing what they were designed to do.

However, I'd suggest they're closer to the touring end of sports touring. If you plan on mostly solo riding and want something a little sportier then I'd suggest looking at the K1300S, ZZR1400 or the Hayabusa.

Or your H2 SX!

but it's a lot of money for a second bike used a couple of times a year.

[RemaL]

black-k1 said:

zzrman said:

black-k1 said:

Good solid bikes that can easily munch miles. As said above, they're older technology but great at doing what they were designed to do.

However, I'd suggest they're closer to the touring end of sports touring. If you plan on mostly solo riding and want something a little sportier then I'd suggest looking at the K1300S, ZZR1400 or the Hayabusa.

Or your H2 SX!

but it's a lot of money for a second bike used a couple of times a year.

Not a fan of the looks of the H2 SX, just something i'm not sure about. Don't like the fairing side lights for a start.
As for going fast and touring did 1333 miles over the weekend on my H2. I like the touring but getting to a age where I want more comfort. Having emptied the tank at 85 miles causing over 120MPH on the autobahn, i was more comfy at 80/90mph. So speed is not the major point for the second bike.

I would be looking at a new or almost new FJR. Weight I know about but as my H2 is a porker at 230kg i'm not to fussed. Having ridden a few 350kg Harleys touring in the US.

I've test rode both the Tracer and sport touring RS1250 both great bikes. But again see many on the roads

cheers for the feedback so far all

[mygoldfishbowl]

I've owned a 06 FJR A for the past five years. The one word that springs to mind is, heavy! Apart from that and the fact it really could do with a sixth gear it's pretty hard to fault.

It's covered 65,000 miles and the only mechanical issues I've had apart from the normal service items has been the starter relay and the pesky rubber which goes along the top of the dials and around the screen mounts, a known problem and a biggish job to fix.

My only mod has been to change the handlebars for something more conventional which I could attach a crap nav to. I bought the mounts and bars from ABM.

They are quite a tall bike even with the seat in the lowest setting so if you're shortish I'd suggest you try one for size before buying.

Edit. I've just read your post above. If you're buying a later model it'll already have six gears and the screen rubber wont be a issue, so you can ignore pretty much everything I've said.

One thing though, depending on where you live, I'm not sure if even the latest ones are London emission zone friendly. If I were to buy another I'd be checking that.

Edited by mygoldfishbowl on Friday 16th October 10:04

[black-k1]

RemaL said:

Not a fan of the looks of the H2 SX, just something i'm not sure about. Don't like the fairing side lights for a start.
As for going fast and touring did 1333 miles over the weekend on my H2. I like the touring but getting to a age where I want more comfort. Having emptied the tank at 85 miles causing over 120MPH on the autobahn, i was more comfy at 80/90mph. So speed is not the major point for the second bike.

I would be looking at a new or almost new FJR. Weight I know about but as my H2 is a porker at 230kg i'm not to fussed. Having ridden a few 350kg Harleys touring in the US.

I've test rode both the Tracer and sport touring RS1250 both great bikes. But again see many on the roads

cheers for the feedback so far all

For me the speed on the Autobahn is pretty irrelevant. Al bikes mentioned will be able to hold 130+mph for longer than the rider can do safely. The "sports" part of sport touring is the fast A roads, the mountain passes and the stunning B roads. Those are the places that a slightly less upright riding position, more focused suspension and a few less kgs can add quite a lot to the fun.

I do agree on the H2 SX looks. They're not going to win any awards but the rest of the bike easily makes up for that.

[Max5476]

mygoldfishbowl said:

One thing though, depending on where you live, I'm not sure if even the latest ones are London emission zone friendly. If I were to buy another I'd be checking that.

The current London requirement is NOx emissions that are better than Euro 3 so almost all bikes registered after July 2007 are compliant. (There would have been a few pre-euro 3 bikes sold on limited concession for up to 12 months afterwards, so dealers didn't get left with unregisterable stock)

Where it gets complicated is that some bikes pre-2007 are compliant - as long as you can prove the NOx emissions are below the euro 3 limits you can get an exemption from TFL. A lot of the manufacturers can confirm the required information to you. Frustratingly TFL doesn't apply a blanket exemption once a pre euro 3 model & model year have shown to be exempt. Lots of info in biking forums if you need to know more.

Off course it's highly likely the goal posts will move again at some point in the future.

[SteelerSE]

If you're after something less common that will still be comfortable, eat the miles and have shaft drive then either a Super Ten or a CrossTourer would both work well. Both have good luggage options and you can get the Ten with electronic suspension if that floats your boat. The other bike that's always held up as having amazing ride quality is the Aprilia Caponoord. Definitely ticks your rarity box and is a pretty underrated machine in my book.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-details/20200820...

[mygoldfishbowl]

Max5476 said:

The current London requirement is NOx emissions that are better than Euro 3 so almost all bikes registered after July 2007 are compliant. (There would have been a few pre-euro 3 bikes sold on limited concession for up to 12 months afterwards, so dealers didn't get left with unregisterable stock)

Where it gets complicated is that some bikes pre-2007 are compliant - as long as you can prove the NOx emissions are below the euro 3 limits you can get an exemption from TFL. A lot of the manufacturers can confirm the required information to you. Frustratingly TFL doesn't apply a blanket exemption once a pre euro 3 model & model year have shown to be exempt. Lots of info in biking forums if you need to know more.

Off course it's highly likely the goal posts will move again at some point in the future.

Thanks. I remember half heartedly looking into this a while ago when the news of the zone first hit the press so there is definitely a high chance that I'm wrong. I'll have another look over the weekend but the reason I said what I did above is because, as I remember, my 2006 came nowhere near being anywhere near the legal limits and I remember being quite shocked when I looked at newer versions that were at the same levels as mine. Again, there's a good chance I'm wrong and was in fact comparing diesel levels or something equally ridiculous.

[Speedy23]

To get back to FJRs...I've had mine for 3 years now, very fast, competent bike. 2017 6-speed A model, so no fancy auto clutches or electronic suspension. The electronic suspension is supposed to be good, but it is not rebuildable. Only things I would comment on is that they are a bit top-heavy when compared to a BMW RT but a lot more reliable....and they eat front tyres.

Only bike I've ever had where the front wears out before the rear - they go scalloped. Usually get 5k out of front, 8-9k from rear. Currently running Bridgestone T-31s ....very pleased with them. I invested in a Nitron shock - money well spent, it improved the already good handling over the stock shock. This bike definitely handles well...its very agile for its size and weight.

Haven't had to mess with the forks too much save to slightly adjust the preload. Post 2016 A model bikes have the rebound and compression damping in the RH side fork leg and are not suitable for the suspension kits that are currently available.

As others have said, got to stay on top of keeping the shock linkage greased. Not a difficult job once you've got supporting the rear end of the bike sorted.

BEWARE there a a few internet sites promoting various scary methods of suspending the rear of the bike to allow the shock linkage to be dismantled. You have to do this, because the centrestand has to come off before the relay arm assembly can be removed.

DO NOT attempt to suspend the bike using the alloy subframe under the pillion seat - it can, and will snap, potentially dropping 1/4 ton of bike on you (see Twowheelobsession for details). Best method is to use 2 screwjacks (1 under each side of the swingarm) with a piece of 2x4 on top of the wheel. That won't go anywhere.

Some people reckon you can do it using a car jack and the sidestand, but........1/4 ton of bike? You decide.

Oh and a little niggle, but the small screws that hold the catches on the bottom of the pannier locks always come undone, so you need to check and loctite them to ensure they don't go free-range! If they do come out, the panniers can just fall off and at over £300 a pop, not to be recommended.

If you do buy one, you won't be disappointed. Good tip is to join the FJ/FJR Owners Club...they have their own very competitive workshop and specialise in these bikes, do a good price on servicing and spares. Thoroughly recommended. And they let you watch while your bike if being worked on, so you know it's been done properly.

So a few things to think about, but I'm pleased with mine. If you buy one, I would think you would be too.

Edited by Speedy23 on Sunday 18th October 06:01

[Iminquarantine]

^ I read stories of the entire rear end of early bikes falling off. I thought the rear suspension link was now well sorted with a design/manufacturing change. Is it something owners still need to work on?

[SilverB]

An alternative to lift the back is to use an ABBA superbike stand and the extra swing arm removal bobbins screwed in where the rear sub frame connects to the main frame, you just have to source slightly different sized bolts to fit fit the frame bolt holes. Nice and solid using this method. The only other thing to watch is that you need to either remove or as I did carefully flex the exhaust out of the way to allow the centre stand bolts enough room to be removed. Some people just cut the bolts off and buy new ones. If the factory had installed the bolts the other way around it would be less hassle. Other than this they are fairly easy to work on, very good build quality, my 2015 model was totally reliable, it was one of the best bikes I've ever owned. Another potential issue some people have found that if you overload the standard top box mount it can crack, the solution is just to replace it with the Givi frame, it's a lot stronger. As per a previous post dont rule out the Super Tenere or Crosstourer, I'm on my second CT now, very competent, still heavy though. As a pure mile muncher / motorway / fast roads Fjr all, the way.

Edited by SilverB on Sunday 18th October 10:30

[Steve Bass]

Kawasaki GTR1400 Concours?????