Hello!..and a question.
Discussion
Hi all,
Been a regular reader of PH and now joined up to ask a question, which hopefully someone can help with.
Just bought a Vantage V8 Auto, 2016, FSH with just 2,000 miles on clock, so pretty much new despite its age.
All seems fine apart from a small clunk/knock when setting off from standstill or coming to halt.
In the garage if I put it in neutral and rock it back and forth all is smooth and quiet.
If I put it in Drive and rock back and forth there is a bit of slack and clunk as it locks up.
Having never driven another Aston my question is this normal and just part of the charm or is there something needs looking at?
Thanks for your help.
Been a regular reader of PH and now joined up to ask a question, which hopefully someone can help with.
Just bought a Vantage V8 Auto, 2016, FSH with just 2,000 miles on clock, so pretty much new despite its age.
All seems fine apart from a small clunk/knock when setting off from standstill or coming to halt.
In the garage if I put it in neutral and rock it back and forth all is smooth and quiet.
If I put it in Drive and rock back and forth there is a bit of slack and clunk as it locks up.
Having never driven another Aston my question is this normal and just part of the charm or is there something needs looking at?
Thanks for your help.
Welcome!
Try doing a ‘clutch learn’ as per the following:
THIS MUST BE CARRIED OUT WHEN CAR IS COLD (at least once a week)
1.Turn Ignition on
2.put foot on brake pedal and turn engine on
3.Within about 10 seconds you will here an audible click from under the car .
4.The 'Click' is an indication of a clutch learn.
5.Once you have heard this sound ,turn engine and ignition off and repeat process at least three more times.
Following these instructions will ultimately result in smoother power delivery when pulling away from a standstill.
Try doing a ‘clutch learn’ as per the following:
THIS MUST BE CARRIED OUT WHEN CAR IS COLD (at least once a week)
1.Turn Ignition on
2.put foot on brake pedal and turn engine on
3.Within about 10 seconds you will here an audible click from under the car .
4.The 'Click' is an indication of a clutch learn.
5.Once you have heard this sound ,turn engine and ignition off and repeat process at least three more times.
Following these instructions will ultimately result in smoother power delivery when pulling away from a standstill.
Hi jonE1 and welcome. I have a 2015 V8V with SportShift II and I have no clunks or knocks when I pull away.
As far as I'm aware the advice offered by Phil is applicable to the older SSI but, as yours is a 2016 machine, you will have SSII. If you're unsure it's easy to tell - SSII has 7 gears, the SSI had 6.
The clutch learn on an SSII happens at every "key-on" (ECU-on?) when the system is cold and is indicated by the LED in the "N" button on the dash flashing - it takes about 8 seconds to complete. If you engage a gear before the learn cycle is complete then the gearbox will abandon it and select a gear - my advice is always allow this to happen and don't engage gear until the LED stops flashing. I usually start the car and, while the LED flashes, I stow things in the central cubby, do up my seatbelt, shuffle in the seat to get comfy and power the door mirrors out. The Vantage manual recommends that you let the car idle for 10 seconds or so before setting off when it's cold, so this kills two birds with one stone.
If the previous owner had neglected this then the clutch can think the bite point is away from where it really is and it may take several learn cycles to get back to the correct position as it can only adjust by a small amount during each learn event.
I'm also puzzled by your statement that you "put it in neutral" and rock the car it's smooth and quiet - do you do this with the car running? Because the SSII will engage a gear (1st or R) when you take the ECU out. You can trick the SSII to remain in neutral, but this requires you to pull both paddles twice before you shut down - I've never used this but I believe you get a warning if you do. The SSII will select first if it was in N or any forward gear when you take the ECU out; if it was in reverse it will stay in reverse. It only actually reselects neutral at the next start-up.
As far as I'm aware the advice offered by Phil is applicable to the older SSI but, as yours is a 2016 machine, you will have SSII. If you're unsure it's easy to tell - SSII has 7 gears, the SSI had 6.
The clutch learn on an SSII happens at every "key-on" (ECU-on?) when the system is cold and is indicated by the LED in the "N" button on the dash flashing - it takes about 8 seconds to complete. If you engage a gear before the learn cycle is complete then the gearbox will abandon it and select a gear - my advice is always allow this to happen and don't engage gear until the LED stops flashing. I usually start the car and, while the LED flashes, I stow things in the central cubby, do up my seatbelt, shuffle in the seat to get comfy and power the door mirrors out. The Vantage manual recommends that you let the car idle for 10 seconds or so before setting off when it's cold, so this kills two birds with one stone.
If the previous owner had neglected this then the clutch can think the bite point is away from where it really is and it may take several learn cycles to get back to the correct position as it can only adjust by a small amount during each learn event.
I'm also puzzled by your statement that you "put it in neutral" and rock the car it's smooth and quiet - do you do this with the car running? Because the SSII will engage a gear (1st or R) when you take the ECU out. You can trick the SSII to remain in neutral, but this requires you to pull both paddles twice before you shut down - I've never used this but I believe you get a warning if you do. The SSII will select first if it was in N or any forward gear when you take the ECU out; if it was in reverse it will stay in reverse. It only actually reselects neutral at the next start-up.
Edited by LTP on Wednesday 21st October 14:16
Thanks for your replies.
Did the clutch learn procedure numerous times and it has definately improved the situation.
No clunk on takeoff and whole thing is smoother.
Also shout out to Mike at Bamford Rose who answered my cheeky email with this question and a video clip I sent, even though the car is nothing to do with them..much appreciated.
Whilst I'm here one more beginners question.
I have read that to go from paddles back to auto you can do an extended pull on the upshift.
This doesn't seem to work however long you hold it, only way is to hit D on the dash?
I will put some photos up this evening.
Ta.
Did the clutch learn procedure numerous times and it has definately improved the situation.
No clunk on takeoff and whole thing is smoother.
Also shout out to Mike at Bamford Rose who answered my cheeky email with this question and a video clip I sent, even though the car is nothing to do with them..much appreciated.
Whilst I'm here one more beginners question.
I have read that to go from paddles back to auto you can do an extended pull on the upshift.
This doesn't seem to work however long you hold it, only way is to hit D on the dash?
I will put some photos up this evening.
Ta.
JonE1 said:
Thanks for your replies.
No problem. I edited mine while you were replying - I should have made a second postNow to your question
I have read that to go from paddles back to auto you can do an extended pull on the upshift.
This doesn't seem to work however long you hold it, only way is to hit D on the dash?
This is a common mistake that even Aston dealers sometimes make. The "hold the right paddle for 2 seconds to return to auto" only works on the true auto boxes with a torque converter, such as found in later DB9s, etc. For the ASM 'box the only way to get back into drive is to press the "D" button. But, as you'll have already discovered, the "D" stands for "Don't, under any circumstance, press this". just drive it on the paddles as, with a strategic throttle lift, you can shift better than the 'box can.
JonE1 said:
Whilst I'm here one more beginners question.
I have read that to go from paddles back to auto you can do an extended pull on the upshift.
This doesn't seem to work however long you hold it, only way is to hit D on the dash?
I will put some photos up this evening.
Ta.
Easy. Dont use "auto". Its rubbish. Its not an auto, its a manual box with some software to act like an auto occasionally.I have read that to go from paddles back to auto you can do an extended pull on the upshift.
This doesn't seem to work however long you hold it, only way is to hit D on the dash?
I will put some photos up this evening.
Ta.
JonE1 said:
Hi all,
Been a regular reader of PH and now joined up to ask a question, which hopefully someone can help with.
Just bought a Vantage V8 Auto, 2016, FSH with just 2,000 miles on clock, so pretty much new despite its age.
All seems fine apart from a small clunk/knock when setting off from standstill or coming to halt.
In the garage if I put it in neutral and rock it back and forth all is smooth and quiet.
If I put it in Drive and rock back and forth there is a bit of slack and clunk as it locks up.
Having never driven another Aston my question is this normal and just part of the charm or is there something needs looking at?
Thanks for your help.
I had exactly that car/setup for 18 months. I don't want to insult you, but is it not simply 1st gear engaging? You can hear/feel/notice it, but I think it stands out rather than doing the action manually as it's done for you.Been a regular reader of PH and now joined up to ask a question, which hopefully someone can help with.
Just bought a Vantage V8 Auto, 2016, FSH with just 2,000 miles on clock, so pretty much new despite its age.
All seems fine apart from a small clunk/knock when setting off from standstill or coming to halt.
In the garage if I put it in neutral and rock it back and forth all is smooth and quiet.
If I put it in Drive and rock back and forth there is a bit of slack and clunk as it locks up.
Having never driven another Aston my question is this normal and just part of the charm or is there something needs looking at?
Thanks for your help.
Also, as it's a lower miles example, some good use may help. Vantages only get getter with use. Leave 'em standing and they get all grumpy
nickv8 said:
I don't want to insult you, but is it not simply 1st gear engaging? You can hear/feel/notice it, but I think it stands out rather than doing the action manually as it's done for you.
I will agree that if you are on the move and changing down from 2nd to 1st you will hear 1st engage. With a bit of a clunk. I've never heard mine make a noise engaging 1st from start-up.
Trying to answer you all,
The car is a 7 speed so SSII, however the multiple clutch learn procedure has eliminated the take off 'clunk'.
There is still some slack in the system when rocking it back and forth in gear, but I have now been assured that this is perfectly normal, and have even been sent a video of another car doing exactly the same thing with the same results.
Did the garage tests with ignition on but no engine start.
Was able to engage N and then D (think I started and stopped engine to get D can't exactly remember).
The 'paddle hold' was obviously fake news so that has also put my mind at rest, thanks.
I have had PDK's and Single clutch ZF's before but now understanding I have to approach this in a new way.
Don't worry about insulting me, if I'm being stupid tell me!
...but I don't think it was simply engaging first.
If you rolled up in first to a stop and then set of again without going into N it still did it (the clutch calibration would explain this I guess).
I certainly plan to put some proper miles on it, so as you say that should get things going a bit better.
Here's a couple of pics from picking it up and back in the garage.
The car is a 7 speed so SSII, however the multiple clutch learn procedure has eliminated the take off 'clunk'.
There is still some slack in the system when rocking it back and forth in gear, but I have now been assured that this is perfectly normal, and have even been sent a video of another car doing exactly the same thing with the same results.
Did the garage tests with ignition on but no engine start.
Was able to engage N and then D (think I started and stopped engine to get D can't exactly remember).
The 'paddle hold' was obviously fake news so that has also put my mind at rest, thanks.
I have had PDK's and Single clutch ZF's before but now understanding I have to approach this in a new way.
Don't worry about insulting me, if I'm being stupid tell me!
...but I don't think it was simply engaging first.
If you rolled up in first to a stop and then set of again without going into N it still did it (the clutch calibration would explain this I guess).
I certainly plan to put some proper miles on it, so as you say that should get things going a bit better.
Here's a couple of pics from picking it up and back in the garage.
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