Discussion
Hectors house said:
Hi
Can anybody give me there advise on a ford mk 2 english axle my pinion seal needs changing i have diff out and seal removed
My question is can i just fit new seal replace flange and tighten to i have small amount of drag when i turn by hand
if it's the same as most axles....it's a bit of a difficult one. ( not familiar with that specific axle )Can anybody give me there advise on a ford mk 2 english axle my pinion seal needs changing i have diff out and seal removed
My question is can i just fit new seal replace flange and tighten to i have small amount of drag when i turn by hand
There is usually a crush washer between the two bearings, which technically if you release the pinion nut you should fit a new one and go through the whole crushing process, which is a right PITA
If it uses this design there are 3 options.
Refit everything, ignore the crush washer and tighten everything up again, but not crushing it any further and hoping all will be fine....which it probably will.
Fit a new washer as mentioned.
Or pull the old washer out, have a solid spacer made the same as it, and bolt it all back together good and tight..
As all bearings etc are the same it should all be fine with the same clearances it had. ( or you could maybe go a fraction tighter because things are old ? )
The issue is....if you tighten and because not using full force do not get it tight enough, it may come loose or leave the bearings a little loose under load.
Or if you fully tighten but crush the washer again just too much...it can leave the bearings too tight leading to premature wear.
It is a fine line, but yes it can be done. As said, crushing a fraction more given the bearings will be old, probably wont do any harm. But I am talking really small amounts.
And I'd threadlock the nut too if it doesn't already come impregnated with locking compound.
Certainly at initial stages of crush, it can take a lot of effort, but the more it's crushed the less effort is needed.
But pulling the crush washer out and getting a solid spacer of the exact same dimension made up, would allow you to re-install and tighten the crap out of the pinion nut with no worries. And it would be the exact same as when you took it apart.
Or if you fully tighten but crush the washer again just too much...it can leave the bearings too tight leading to premature wear.
It is a fine line, but yes it can be done. As said, crushing a fraction more given the bearings will be old, probably wont do any harm. But I am talking really small amounts.
And I'd threadlock the nut too if it doesn't already come impregnated with locking compound.
Certainly at initial stages of crush, it can take a lot of effort, but the more it's crushed the less effort is needed.
But pulling the crush washer out and getting a solid spacer of the exact same dimension made up, would allow you to re-install and tighten the crap out of the pinion nut with no worries. And it would be the exact same as when you took it apart.
Index the nut before removal then when you refit just go plus 10/15 degrees further clockwise this way you will confirm the whole pinion assembly collar/sleeve and bearings are pinched tight without upsetting bearing pre-load (leaving pinion assy loose or altering pre-load will cause failure of some kind) done more axles using this method than I care to remember to replace pinion worn/aged seals, some of these English axles came built with a fixed height sleeve in this situation ignore what I just said just refit nut and tighten fully , easily to confirm by fishing out pinion front bearing tapper roller race and sleeve , make sure prop flange dont have a heavy wear lip impression or the repair will fail again, collapsible style looks like this 
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