Chassis Paint - Brush or spray?
Discussion
I have spoken with Moore Racing regarding getting my chassis sorted. They have suggested steam cleaning it first and leaving it to dry. Then I have a choice - three coats of hammerite painted on with a brush or sprayed on with a gun???? They are recommending spraying as they can get to more of the chassis, but there will be overspray on the engine, exhaust etc. Also the spraying will cost more money. Would appreciate anyones experiences/comments on this
Far better to use an epoxy mastic. Try www.rust.co.uk or Frost.
Most important thing is waxoyl it inside.
Also drill 5mm holes at the lowest points, this has 2 uses. Any condensate build up will drain and you can also use them to spray waxoyl in.
I'd do this after painting the outside or you'll have problems getting paint to stick.
I used a wire brush in a drill and sanded all the old coating off mine, then used hammerite and black waxoyl on top of the hammerite.
Inside the wheel arches, I used Isoflex rubber coating to cover the chassis in front of the rear wheels and the trailing arms where the stones tend to hit a lot. This offers a lot of protection and adheres very well on top of the underseal that had already dried. It looks very smart too.
I have heard good things about a product called POR-15 which is applied to metal and gives a very resistant finish.
www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=6
Also drill 5mm holes at the lowest points, this has 2 uses. Any condensate build up will drain and you can also use them to spray waxoyl in.
I'd do this after painting the outside or you'll have problems getting paint to stick.
I used a wire brush in a drill and sanded all the old coating off mine, then used hammerite and black waxoyl on top of the hammerite.
Inside the wheel arches, I used Isoflex rubber coating to cover the chassis in front of the rear wheels and the trailing arms where the stones tend to hit a lot. This offers a lot of protection and adheres very well on top of the underseal that had already dried. It looks very smart too.
I have heard good things about a product called POR-15 which is applied to metal and gives a very resistant finish.
www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=6
Kentish said:
Most important thing is waxoyl it inside.
Also drill 5mm holes at the lowest points, this has 2 uses. Any condensate build up will drain and you can also use them to spray waxoyl in.
once you have drilled holes do you bung them or leave them open to the elements ?
also where do you consider the lowest point ?
i have completely por15'd the whole chassis but not internally waxoyled as i wasn't happy drilling holes .
>> Edited by spivvy on Thursday 30th June 13:56
spivvy said:
Most important thing is waxoyl it inside.
Also drill 5mm holes at the lowest points, this has 2 uses. Any condensate build up will drain and you can also use them to spray waxoyl in.
once you have drilled holes do you bung them or leave them open to the elements ?
also where do you consider the lowest point ?
i have completely por15'd the whole chassis but not internally waxoyled as i wasn't happy drilling holes .
>> Edited by spivvy on Thursday 30th June 13:56
Mine are open to allow any moisture to drain, trust me if there are any other opportunities for ingress of moisture during winter, you will get condensation inside and there you'll have the potential to rot from the inside out.
The S chassis is over engineered for the power of the car and a few small holes at the lowest points of the chassis will have no adverse effect on strength.
Clear waxoyl up inside the chassis through these holes is the best way to coat inside, it's thinnner and the fine spray will drift around inside the frame and coat everything.
In fact when you drill at these lowest points I bet in most cases you'll find some water drain out. Give it a try just don't go mad drilling holes
I also have a hole in the rear of each of my sill in front of the rear wheels, this will accomodate a small tube to allow you to spray waxoyl on top of the outriggers in front of each rear wheel. There's no other way to get at them without raising the body.
Kentish said:
Mine are open to allow any moisture to drain, trust me if there are any other opportunities for ingress of moisture during winter, you will get condensation inside and there you'll have the potential to rot from the inside out.
The trouble is that that also lets water in. If your chassis is good to begin with then I see no benefit and only problems but if it's rusted to pin holes then drying drain holes will be a benefit. J
19560 said:
The trouble is that that also lets water in. If your chassis is good to begin with then I see no benefit and only problems but if it's rusted to pin holes then drying drain holes will be a benefit. J
With the best will in the world, I don't think many manufacturers will make a chassis that is hemetically sealed and air tight. And we're talking TVR here so I'm sure there are plenty of seams that have less than perfect welds.
With holes drilled, any water that goes in should run straight out again.
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