1986 Tasmin 350i fuse box
Discussion
Try these threads, they seem to have similar layouts to yours:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
and
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
- Adam
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
and
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
- Adam
Thanks Adam
My fuse box is separate from the relays and is actually mounted to the rear of the glove box, accessed when the glove box is open and a small push fit panel at the rear is removed. Whilst I appreciate the engine supplies most of the music, I decided whilst refitting all things dash related, I would fit a new radio head unit (10 amps max) and a small sub woofer to be situated low down behind the passenger seat (max 10 amps) Certain of the fuses listed such as air con pump, boot release (to name just 2) are redundant as I have neither of these, so was looking to utilise these fused outlets for my new power supply. Failing that I have looked at a fuse tap, to tap in to the lower amped circuits (7.5 amp), though as these stand proud of the original fuses not sure at this stage whether there is enough clearance between the fuses and the push fit cover.
My fuse box is separate from the relays and is actually mounted to the rear of the glove box, accessed when the glove box is open and a small push fit panel at the rear is removed. Whilst I appreciate the engine supplies most of the music, I decided whilst refitting all things dash related, I would fit a new radio head unit (10 amps max) and a small sub woofer to be situated low down behind the passenger seat (max 10 amps) Certain of the fuses listed such as air con pump, boot release (to name just 2) are redundant as I have neither of these, so was looking to utilise these fused outlets for my new power supply. Failing that I have looked at a fuse tap, to tap in to the lower amped circuits (7.5 amp), though as these stand proud of the original fuses not sure at this stage whether there is enough clearance between the fuses and the push fit cover.
Hi,
My fuse box is mounted in the glovebox also behind a removeable panel.
I have not been to the garage for a look as yet, do you have a picture of yours so as I can look to see if it is the same or similar.
I have a very faded decal attached to the inner of the lid with fuse ratings and function.
My fuse box is mounted in the glovebox also behind a removeable panel.
I have not been to the garage for a look as yet, do you have a picture of yours so as I can look to see if it is the same or similar.
I have a very faded decal attached to the inner of the lid with fuse ratings and function.
D'oh! I actually have one like that in my 350i, behind a panel in the glove box.
However I can't remember how many rows and columns it has now.
If you look at the wiring diagrams, they have all the fuses arranged in a grid like this:
It should be just a matter of finding the wiring diagram that matches your layout, and then it should be obvious which fuse is which, especially if you find the number key that goes with it.
There have been a lot of wiring diagrams posted on here over the years... put this text into google as a search (but no space between the : and the P):
site: pistonheads.com wedges wiring diagram 350i
However I can't remember how many rows and columns it has now.
If you look at the wiring diagrams, they have all the fuses arranged in a grid like this:
It should be just a matter of finding the wiring diagram that matches your layout, and then it should be obvious which fuse is which, especially if you find the number key that goes with it.
There have been a lot of wiring diagrams posted on here over the years... put this text into google as a search (but no space between the : and the P):
site: pistonheads.com wedges wiring diagram 350i
Edited by adam quantrill on Saturday 21st November 23:24
Edit: Ignore the decal It is more than poor I will post better info in a bit.
View of my fuse box and a very poor picture of the decal (Sorry as I said very faded).
The top left and the one below are elec windows I think.
Now I look at the picture some of the fuses are upside down although not seen my osd will kick in and drive me nuts
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/dXpQDZeJ[/url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/L1xrcVgB[/url]
Certainly the original hazard radio is rated at 20A and the boot release is 10A although has to have Ignition on to work, the AC pump is 25A if it is actually connected.
View of my fuse box and a very poor picture of the decal (Sorry as I said very faded).
The top left and the one below are elec windows I think.
Now I look at the picture some of the fuses are upside down although not seen my osd will kick in and drive me nuts
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/dXpQDZeJ[/url]|https://thumbsnap.com/L1xrcVgB[/url]Certainly the original hazard radio is rated at 20A and the boot release is 10A although has to have Ignition on to work, the AC pump is 25A if it is actually connected.
Edited by BlueWedgy on Sunday 22 November 10:38
You mention 10 Amp max for head unit and 10 Amp max for sub woofer
Are the above figures from the suppliers?
Why I ask is that if those figures are correct there is a possible 20 Amp current draw on the supply
Having looked at a Wedge diagram, there is a good chance that there is a fuse in the fusebox that supplies the horn and cigarette lighter which are rarely used and it will very likely be wired with 8 Amp or 16 Amp cable which might be good enough for what you need but you will need to check the cable size and check those figures of 10 Amps are correct
10 Amps seems very high for the head unit but......
Are you wiring an amplifier?
The ignition switch possibly has an aux position for switching on the head unit
Boot lock fuse is powered by ignition on
Don't know about the aircon fuse
Can't be of more help until the whole system and switching requirements are known
Perhaps you could draw something and post it here
Are the above figures from the suppliers?
Why I ask is that if those figures are correct there is a possible 20 Amp current draw on the supply
Having looked at a Wedge diagram, there is a good chance that there is a fuse in the fusebox that supplies the horn and cigarette lighter which are rarely used and it will very likely be wired with 8 Amp or 16 Amp cable which might be good enough for what you need but you will need to check the cable size and check those figures of 10 Amps are correct
10 Amps seems very high for the head unit but......
Are you wiring an amplifier?
The ignition switch possibly has an aux position for switching on the head unit
Boot lock fuse is powered by ignition on
Don't know about the aircon fuse
Can't be of more help until the whole system and switching requirements are known
Perhaps you could draw something and post it here
Funnily enough I had thought about the cigarette lighter circuit as its not used 'as intended' and I was going to insert a small USB port (which sits level with the facia when inserted) into the holder. Whilst the head unit and subwoofer recommend a 10 amp fuse, I downloaded the spec manuals and max draw for the head unit is stated as 10 amps, but the subwoofer states 4.5 amps.
Thanks for all the help from everyone - would still like to note the allocation of the fuses in the box.
Will post a picture of my fuse box later which is definitely only three rows, 2 outer of 7 and the middle row being 9 fuses
Thanks for all the help from everyone - would still like to note the allocation of the fuses in the box.
Will post a picture of my fuse box later which is definitely only three rows, 2 outer of 7 and the middle row being 9 fuses
jack350 said:
Funnily enough I had thought about the cigarette lighter circuit as its not used 'as intended' and I was going to insert a small USB port (which sits level with the facia when inserted) into the holder. Whilst the head unit and subwoofer recommend a 10 amp fuse, I downloaded the spec manuals and max draw for the head unit is stated as 10 amps, but the subwoofer states 4.5 amps.
Thanks for all the help from everyone - would still like to note the allocation of the fuses in the box.
Will post a picture of my fuse box later which is definitely only three rows, 2 outer of 7 and the middle row being 9 fuses
Ok thenThanks for all the help from everyone - would still like to note the allocation of the fuses in the box.
Will post a picture of my fuse box later which is definitely only three rows, 2 outer of 7 and the middle row being 9 fuses
You may find that there is a single 16 Amp cable supplying the Horn/Cigarette lighter fuse and a thinner 8 Amp cable from the fuse to the cigarette lighter socket but it could be a 16 Amp cable
If the cable to the cigarette lighter socket is 8 Amp, you would need to get to the back of the fusebox to check if the Horn cable is 16 Amp and if so could link into that cable
If Horn/Cigarette lighter cables at the fuse are 8 Amp you could solder them together a short distance from the fuse holder terminal and at the same time add a 16 Amp cable by soldering in at that very same joint being created or you could remove the terminal from the fusebox, cut it off the cables and crimp a new terminal to the cables plus add a 16 amp cable at that crimp for the music
Never seen one like that before!
I haven't seen that layout in a wiring diagram, so while things are working it's probably worth identifying what each fuse is for, one by one, pull it, see what doesn't work, reinsert, should start working again.
It might be worth trying the facebook forum too in case anyone has seen one like this. What year is it?
I haven't seen that layout in a wiring diagram, so while things are working it's probably worth identifying what each fuse is for, one by one, pull it, see what doesn't work, reinsert, should start working again.
It might be worth trying the facebook forum too in case anyone has seen one like this. What year is it?
Should be able to get a good idea of what function to look for, with the fuse pulled, by fuse rating in my post.
However I did notice that mine could be a little wrong for rating in some instances. Another one to add to the list of "oh that's not right" problems, of which there have been a fair few so far.
However I did notice that mine could be a little wrong for rating in some instances. Another one to add to the list of "oh that's not right" problems, of which there have been a fair few so far.
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