Cayman 987 M97 Engine as a track car?
Discussion
I sold my BMW E36 M3 Evo as it was becoming too high maintenance as a track car. I am looking for something with similar performance but a bit newer. One potential is an early 987 Cayman.
Anybody got any experience of running one on track?
Obviously the Cayman R or a Gen 2 would be the best choice, but both are a little bit expensive for something which is going to pick up stone chips and potentially go sideways off the track on occasion.
However this leaves me with the M97 engined cars. What are these like as a track car? I am aware it’s going to need a deep sump to mitigate oil surge. It looks like IMS issues happen but not often, and as long as you don’t let the bearing completely disintegrate, it’s not crazy money to fix.
The one that has me slightly worried is bore scoring. Suggestions seem to be that the 3.4 is much more afflicted than the 2.7.
Can the 2.7 be tuned up to sensible power (245 hp is a bit light, something closer to 270+ would be nice, just so BHP per ton isn’t too far from the old M3).
The S and the EVO are about equal power to weight so that’s what I would prefer, but are these going to disintegrate when used on track? No point saving a few grand over a Gen2 to then sink 7K into an engine rebuild.
Whats the collective experience of the group say?
Anybody got any experience of running one on track?
Obviously the Cayman R or a Gen 2 would be the best choice, but both are a little bit expensive for something which is going to pick up stone chips and potentially go sideways off the track on occasion.
However this leaves me with the M97 engined cars. What are these like as a track car? I am aware it’s going to need a deep sump to mitigate oil surge. It looks like IMS issues happen but not often, and as long as you don’t let the bearing completely disintegrate, it’s not crazy money to fix.
The one that has me slightly worried is bore scoring. Suggestions seem to be that the 3.4 is much more afflicted than the 2.7.
Can the 2.7 be tuned up to sensible power (245 hp is a bit light, something closer to 270+ would be nice, just so BHP per ton isn’t too far from the old M3).
The S and the EVO are about equal power to weight so that’s what I would prefer, but are these going to disintegrate when used on track? No point saving a few grand over a Gen2 to then sink 7K into an engine rebuild.
Whats the collective experience of the group say?
A good question that many people ask before buying any 987. Maybe I can help as I only drive mine on track.
So far I've done around 30 track days over 4 years and the engine hasn't missed a beat. I added a deeper baffled oil sump and change the oil very regularly, but so far it's been perfect. The internet may have over-hyped the M97 engine horror stories and perhaps with good reason. Caution is certainly advised given the costs that could be incurred, but so far all is good. Mine is 88K miles and 10K miles on track. Also mine was the cheapest one in the country with 5 previous owners and chequered service history, so a risk.
Issues so far: Cracked left side cat in the manifold. Left bank misfire fixed with new solenoid sensor (not sure exactly) Spark plugs needed replacing. 02 sensor broken in cat. Other than that, nothing.
There is an acc-sump kit available for the M97 that a lot of people use for tracking/racing caymans and fortunately a few Porsche specialists have experience of fitting/running them long term. I haven't got round to buying one yet, but it's on the shopping list along with an oil pressure gauge.
When inspecting a 987.1 check for excessive smoke on start up, sometimes more from the left side. Check for any tapping sound and a lumpy idle. Also if possible check the manifold bolts aren't too rusted as they will most likely snap when changing the headers.
Hope this helps.
So far I've done around 30 track days over 4 years and the engine hasn't missed a beat. I added a deeper baffled oil sump and change the oil very regularly, but so far it's been perfect. The internet may have over-hyped the M97 engine horror stories and perhaps with good reason. Caution is certainly advised given the costs that could be incurred, but so far all is good. Mine is 88K miles and 10K miles on track. Also mine was the cheapest one in the country with 5 previous owners and chequered service history, so a risk.
Issues so far: Cracked left side cat in the manifold. Left bank misfire fixed with new solenoid sensor (not sure exactly) Spark plugs needed replacing. 02 sensor broken in cat. Other than that, nothing.
There is an acc-sump kit available for the M97 that a lot of people use for tracking/racing caymans and fortunately a few Porsche specialists have experience of fitting/running them long term. I haven't got round to buying one yet, but it's on the shopping list along with an oil pressure gauge.
When inspecting a 987.1 check for excessive smoke on start up, sometimes more from the left side. Check for any tapping sound and a lumpy idle. Also if possible check the manifold bolts aren't too rusted as they will most likely snap when changing the headers.
Hope this helps.
No worries.
I haven't done anything to the power steering or radiators. I was luck my radiators and hoses were replaced when I collected the car. So far I've never had noticeable heat issues. But, a third central radiator is definitely a good idea.
I don't have sports Chrono, just normal PSM. It was really annoying as you can't fully turn traction control off with standard diff, it often steps in on corner exit. But, after fitting an LSD when it's off it's off. If you leave PSM on a drive fast on track, the rear brakes will get very toasty and eat pads. That being said it's pretty good in the wet, my car is setup very aggressive and twitchy, so PSM in the wet has probably kept me safe a few times.
I haven't done anything to the power steering or radiators. I was luck my radiators and hoses were replaced when I collected the car. So far I've never had noticeable heat issues. But, a third central radiator is definitely a good idea.
I don't have sports Chrono, just normal PSM. It was really annoying as you can't fully turn traction control off with standard diff, it often steps in on corner exit. But, after fitting an LSD when it's off it's off. If you leave PSM on a drive fast on track, the rear brakes will get very toasty and eat pads. That being said it's pretty good in the wet, my car is setup very aggressive and twitchy, so PSM in the wet has probably kept me safe a few times.
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