New Clutch Master Cylinder

[meeko]

I've just got my Chimaera back from David Hendry TVR after having a new Clutch Master Cylinder fitted. The problem is now the clutch is biting at the very top of the pedal travel. If I depress the clutch less than an inch it starts to slip.

Can I adjust this? The clutch now seems to be on or off, no middle ground.

[parrot of doom]

Take it back and tell them to fix it?

I've never had a car with the clutch biting right at the top, so I wouldn't accept any excuses.

[ntel]

Had a similar problem a couple of months ago. TVR Power fixed it when it went in for a service. Apparently there is a "stop" that can be adjusted. Unfortunately I don't know where it is or how to adjust it. Not much help really.

Dave

[dlewis]

The unit does come with a new push rod and there are two pedal points it can be attached to.

It could be that the new rod is set to the incorrect length (clutch not unloaded!!), or connected to the incorrect pedal position otherwise the clutch is going.

The adjustment is right behind the pedal.

So much for test driving it........

Dave

[meeko]

Could you provide me with a little more info? How do I check the rod/pedal connection. Are both easily accessable in footwell? Many thanks

[dlewis]

Tbe best way is to use the old rod and the original hole position!

Assuming you are not taking it back, you need to have a look upside down in the footwell.

If the travel is smooth it is probably in the right hole.

If the rod is too long the rod may be acting on the clutch already.

The rod has an adjusting nut for length, from memory.
try 'shortening' the rod by moving the nut along the thread.

To remove the rod at the pedal you will see a retaining clip over the rod. The rod has a shear pin in to the pedal.

Hope you back is up to it and this assists.

[meeko]

I've just spoken with the mechanic from David Hendry and explained the problem. He tells me that now the master cylinder isn't leaking and hence applying more pressure to the slave the clutch is being actuated with less pedal travel. Whereas before there was a fair amount of travel due to air/fluid/pressure loss. He also explained that adjusting the pin length etc would only adjust the height of the pedal, not how much it needed to be depresses to actuate the clutch.

Seems like the clutch is fried if this is the case?

[timbobalob]

Hi Meeko

I have got exactly the same problem - I have just had the master and slave done, and the biting point is very high. It doesn't seem to slip at the moment. I don't think (or hope!!) it is not a worn clutch, as I only had this replaced in March...

I'm probably going to garage after work tonight who have done all of the work, so I'll let you know how I get on!

Cheers,

Tim

[meeko]

Good luck with your garage! Will be very interested to see if they fix the problem.

[David H]

Maybe the rod was adjusted before to compensate for the leak and hasn't been adjusted with the new cylinder?