Pagid RS29 squeal
Discussion
Hi,
I’m about to put some pagid rs29 brake pads on my 996 c2. I do a few track days per year and I’m hoping i’ll be able to live with them on the road too. Changing discs at the same time. Had bad brake judder on EBC blues on last track day last year.
Any tips on best install to avoid squeal.
I’ve ordered the heat shields as well as the OEM dampeners - should i put both on?
Where should i be applying brake grease to avoid noise - between the heat shields and dampeners? Anywhere else?
Any experience from people who have managed to use them on the road with limited noise would be welcome!
Thanks in advance
I’m about to put some pagid rs29 brake pads on my 996 c2. I do a few track days per year and I’m hoping i’ll be able to live with them on the road too. Changing discs at the same time. Had bad brake judder on EBC blues on last track day last year.
Any tips on best install to avoid squeal.
I’ve ordered the heat shields as well as the OEM dampeners - should i put both on?
Where should i be applying brake grease to avoid noise - between the heat shields and dampeners? Anywhere else?
Any experience from people who have managed to use them on the road with limited noise would be welcome!
Thanks in advance
I've lost count of how many sets of RS29s I've used in my GT3 - over 250 trackdays in the old girl so it's quite a few!
The biggest variable in the squeal / no squeal equation is how well you bed them in initially. The procedure is pretty brutal, particularly if you don't have access to a (ahem) "private road". I've had more than one customer declare that their new discs are "warped" as a result of not laying down a consistent pad layer - the solution being to give them death on track until that layer is consistent when magically the "warped" discs suddenly become true again. The same goes for squeal developing - putting some proper heat in the brakes will build up the pad transfer layer again & improve the efficiency too.
Pagid bedding in document is here: https://uber9s.com/Pagid_bedding_in_procedure.pdf
BTW, I never run the pads with anti-rattle shims or wear sensors etc. The only thing I do use is titanium heat shims in the front calipers to keep the heat transfer down.
The biggest variable in the squeal / no squeal equation is how well you bed them in initially. The procedure is pretty brutal, particularly if you don't have access to a (ahem) "private road". I've had more than one customer declare that their new discs are "warped" as a result of not laying down a consistent pad layer - the solution being to give them death on track until that layer is consistent when magically the "warped" discs suddenly become true again. The same goes for squeal developing - putting some proper heat in the brakes will build up the pad transfer layer again & improve the efficiency too.
Pagid bedding in document is here: https://uber9s.com/Pagid_bedding_in_procedure.pdf
BTW, I never run the pads with anti-rattle shims or wear sensors etc. The only thing I do use is titanium heat shims in the front calipers to keep the heat transfer down.
hunter 66 said:
Every race meeting in the 996 RS the shudder on the steering wheel is so severe it is hard to hold , then stand heavy on the brakes into a corner or two an all good again
It's incredible to experience how bad this can feel from behind the wheel.As you and others say, one could easily assume the disc was warped. I had a track day at the Ring ruined by this issue on my old 996 turbo.
On my 997 GT3, running Alcon discs and Pagid Rs29's there is no issue, although I'd second the fact that;
1. You need to bed them in properly in the first place (which is brutal)
2. You may occasionally feel a very slight judder or squeal but a decent shove on the brake will clear it.
Thanks all for the feedback.
I tried to fit them with the dampers and heat shields but none fit, so it put them in bare. I can see how it would be super easy to switch back and forth with Textars for the road without the damperso might do that if they are too noisy on the road.
Do people typically put brake grease on the back of the pads in direct contact with the pistons?
I tried to fit them with the dampers and heat shields but none fit, so it put them in bare. I can see how it would be super easy to switch back and forth with Textars for the road without the damperso might do that if they are too noisy on the road.
Do people typically put brake grease on the back of the pads in direct contact with the pistons?
Joehow said:
They're fine once you have enough pad material in the disk. Mine stopped squealing after two full days at Spa. Tends to be the backs not the fronts for me.
Hi Joe - are you the yellow GT3 with all the yellow trim in the cabin? if so we met at the goodwood PCGB day last year - in the same group with your dad. Hope you are well mate and managing to get some track time.new pads and discs are all installed (had the handbrake shoes fall apart and needed to get my hand on some parts to put back together).
Car is (over-) due an MOT this week and i won't have the opportunity to do a proper bedding in before then (also don't want to do that on cold, wet salty roads frankly).
So question for you - is it ok to drive it to MOT station etc. (which is quite a drive away) without bedding in or do i risk some sort of glazing?
thanks!
Car is (over-) due an MOT this week and i won't have the opportunity to do a proper bedding in before then (also don't want to do that on cold, wet salty roads frankly).
So question for you - is it ok to drive it to MOT station etc. (which is quite a drive away) without bedding in or do i risk some sort of glazing?
thanks!
It's not ideal. If you have some old pads you can throw in for the MOT, I'd do that.
If that's not possible, you may well find that when you do come to bed the pads in, the process will take longer and if give up too soon, you may get uneven pad transfer onto the disc with all the problems that incurs.
If you do have to drive on the new pads, try to keep braking to a minimum until you get a chance to bed them properly.
If that's not possible, you may well find that when you do come to bed the pads in, the process will take longer and if give up too soon, you may get uneven pad transfer onto the disc with all the problems that incurs.
If you do have to drive on the new pads, try to keep braking to a minimum until you get a chance to bed them properly.
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